woody

Not sure why you think that? Craig's backplate has slots so you can move the static timing point to wherever you want, so it's adjustable. The other ignition has 3 fixing points for static timing so it is also adjustable over three positions. Both have a built in advance curve, although one more than the other.

Champs positions Calendar (scroll to bottom of page for individual championship dates) Yellow route at the Forest trial is ideal for twinshocks. If you want a comparison with the ACU championship sections, the latter are generally harder, more technical with more to go at. That's not to say they are too hard but you have to be competent to go around those events without losing too many marks, the sections are all rideable but there is a fine line between a clean/single dab ride and a three, reflecting the fact that it is a national championship. The yellow route at the Forest trial has to cater for modern 0/40, Novices etc. as well as twinshock/pre65 so there is a wider range of abilities to consider, therefore the sections are easier than the ACU champs. However, they are still good sections and will give you plenty to think about in terms of picking lines and keeping your feet up. Cracking trial, you'll enjoy it. Next ACU trial is Torridge MCC - do it if you can, an excellent event.

Not sure you'll get one to go straight in. I'm not familiar with all of the Fantic model's forks but most if not all up to the upside down fork models are 35mm. The Section model's may be larger than 35mm, not sure. Not sure which Yam you mean but the mono Yam forks where they fit in the yokes are 36/37mm so 35mm forks won't clamp up. The twinshock Yam is 34mm so yokes are too small. If it is a Yam mono you should be able to get a complete front end from a Pinky which will go straight in. Probably a better brake on that as well compared to the earlier Fantics/Betas etc.

You have to be very careful with the exhaust locking ring as the thread is very fine and can easily get damaged if the ring comes loose and chatters around. Eventually the threads will strip, either from the chattering or when you're tightening it after it's come loose for the umpteenth time. It's an engineering job to repair with a new insert or oversized thread and new ring, so to be avoided at all costs. First off, clean all of the crap and crud from the threads on the ring and in the cylinder if you haven't already. Aerosol brake cleaner and a small wire brush works well. Get all the threads perfectly clean. There should be a gasket between the pipe and the cylinder. A Yamaha TY fibre gasket can be made to fit or Dave Renham at Bultaco UK may have a copper one for the MAR - this will be better than the Yam one as it isn't so thick and you need to get the ring to screw right in to use as many of the threads as possible, again to minimise the chance of stripping them. Use a proper C spanner on it when tightening - avoid the hammer and chisel method to turn it. Make sure it doesn't cross thread which it can easily do. Avoid really lamping it up, it needs to be tight obviously but don't overdo it as if the threads have had their edges taken off it is easy to go one tweak too many and strip what's left - trust me, I know.... When tight you can use locking wire or a spring from the ring to the left side front sumpguard bracket to stop it rotating undone. Just drill a small hole in the bracket to attach the wire/spring. Personally, I'd avoid using loctite as it could be a real bugger to undo the next time you need to. Providing the threads are ok and cleaned up before fitting you shouldn't need it, it should stay tight.

You don't say what problem you have but as standard the bike should have an Amal MK2 carburettor (26 or 27mm, can't remember) The jets would be something like Pilot jet - 20, Needle jet - 106, Main jet - 160, Throttle Slide no.3. I don't know where you can find a specification sheet for the Gripper but hopefully someone who owns one may be able to confirm the jet sizes for you.

Used airboxes appear on ebay from time to time, they are all the same for the MAR range including the green TR77 models. Air filter available from Sammy Millers (haven't bought one myself so don't know what they're like but they are advertised as available) Someone is remaking the sidepanels for both the white MAR models and the green TR77 (they differ in shape) Again, they appear on ebay from time to time. Or, if you can find a number for him, Steve Sell who trades as Marlimar, keeps them in stock and they aren't too expensive from what I remember (

You can speak to/e-mail Colin here; TY Offroad He should be able to get you one from the makers. It isn't a complete replacement ignition (ie; stator and CDI/coil) it is a new CDI unit and HT coil which uses the existing stator. Fairly straightforward to fit, it just requires a new bracket making which bolts to the existing frame mount to attach the two components as they won't both fit straight onto the frame mounting. I've tried it on my '75 350 MAR and can tell that it revs harder. A new Ossa stator from the same source may be a future availablity.

I haven't really had a chance to run my Majesty 320 properly with the latest electronic ignition kit as the bike (not the ignition) has a problem which isn't sorted yet. However, I have tried a replacement CDI unit on my Ossa from the same supplier as the Yam ignition and there is a noticeable increase in pull at about two thirds up the rev range. I'm not talking double the horsepower and all that bull, but there is a difference from the standard CDI and the bike will rev really hard on climbs. Bottom end is unaltered but when the revs start climbing I can feel the extra surge from about two thirds throttle. If the Yam ignition is configured the same, then the affect of fitting it to the TY should be similar but as mentioned, I haven't been able to try mine properly on the Majesty so I can't say for a fact. I had one of the early electronic kits fitted to the Majesty (with the black Slovenian CDI box) and I couldn't really tell any difference over the points set up, but my main reason for fitting it was convenience and to do away with points/condensor maintenance and mishaps, a 320 isn't in need of any more power. As regards a big bore kit, a 72mm piston is only going to increase the cc to 260cc with the 64mm stroke and I can't imagine 10cc extra is going to provide any sort of dramatic power increase, it's not much different from going to maximum oversize.

Fibreglass tanks are repro copies of the original type alloy mini-majesty tanks which were smaller than the 250 tanks. The original 250 tanks can have the filler cap on either side, no idea why. The person that made them for Shirty lives a stone's throw from me so I'll remember to ask him one day. Maybe he fitted the top part upside down on some of them reversing the side the filler is on.... The alloy tanks for sale on the French site are new repro alloy tanks, presumably to go with the repro frames that Magical had made. Not sure if they are full size or mini tanks. The mini tanks look much neater on the 250 bikes and give it a slimmer look than the original. Only problem is the amount of fuel they hold for road trials, particularly on the 320, you need your petrol stops planned as they are a bit thirsty. I've seen a few chrome framed Majesties around, had one once. Looks nice when it's new but doesn't wear well and if you have to have any welding repairs done if anything breaks it makes a mess of it. Had an Ossa frame chromed once and really wished I hadn't bothered afterwards.

Just to clarify - my post wasn't criticising observing. It's the riders I get frustrated at, particularly classic trials, not just SSDT, when they know it is a non-stop trial but they still stop hop whatever and expect not to be penalised for it - and wail like babies if they do get penalised.

That sort of thing has happened ever since the trial went back to no-stop in '97. Riders who mess up and get off line, stop and either continue after they've regained their balance or hop their way back into line and carry on, whereas if they continued with forward motion after messing up it would cost them at least a dab to get it back on line without stopping. So what should have been marks lost in a section because they couldn't keep the bike on line (the whole point of no-stop, forward motion at all times...) turns into a clean with the benefit of stopping and going and again. The crowd applaud it and the observer presumably feels pressured into giving the clean. The truth is, the rider messed up, lost their way or whatever, but gets away with it instead of being penalised. If the observing on all sections was correct, (which would then make riders ride proper no-stop) the scores wouldn't be as low as they are - any year. A few years ago I saw one rider on a very difficult section make a complete mockery of the rules. He flicked the bike out of the stream onto the bank. Hopped it round, jumped accross the stream onto the other bank, hopped it round again and launched it over some rocks and out for a clean. Brilliant technique but a 5 at least three times... If he'd stayed in the stream and tried to ride over the rocks as the section intended the score may have been somewhat different. It happens in classic trials too, riders stopping and hopping and getting away with it.

Plating was a standard finish on Godden frames. Early ones were yellow, then they were plated and on the last bikes they were red - changed to red on instructions from Yamaha I believe as red/white was Yamaha corporate colour at the time.

He doesn't actually say why he believes it is rare and I'm at a loss to know why he thinks it would be. I don't understand the statement 'bike needs a good cleaning up but wont it be worth to turn out on a bike that no one else has got or never will have'.... Without the frame number it's difficult to know exactly which model it is but it's one of the later 77 onwards green bikes, either the green tank/white guards/black frame model or the green frame/guards/tank model. Listed as a 250 but it has a bing carb, on the green bikes only the 350 (they're actually only 302cc) had a bing carburettor as original fitment, the 250 had an amal MK2. Not possible to tell which engine from the picture as they are identical externally. The pictures are poor but everything about the bike looks standard, apart from the colour. Look here for pictures of what they should look like (although colour is irrelevant really as it is personal choice) Ossa

Forearms as hard as concrete is arm pump - it's compartment syndrome, where the muscles in the forearm haven't got room to expand fully when exercised. The increased bloodflow from the exercise has nowhere to go if the muscles can't expand so you get the 'concrete' feeling due to the pressure of the blood in the muscle - it's why weights and other training won't really help as all you are doing is building the muscle up when it is already too big.. The operation for compartment syndrome cuts the fascia, which is the membrane holding all the muscles in place, from end to end so that it no longer restricts the expansion of the muscles. This enables the muscles to fully expand and allow the blood to flow through freely. I had it done about 4 years ago, worked well for a couple of years but it's slowly come back and is now the same as it was. I've had it for 25 odd years and it's now got to the stage where I've had to give up enduros before I kill or seriously injure myself and I can barely ride a modern trials bike anymore due to the constant clutch/brake control that is required which aggravates it. Old style riding without constant clutch/brake use I can just about get away with so I can at least still ride.

You need to lever behind the basket itself, not the hub, you won't get anything between the hub and basket. You need two 'instuments' with curved or L shaped ends pushed behind the basket so that you can push the basket outwards by levering between the back of the basket and the casing. I use two 12" long car tyre levers with curved L shaped ends although it can be done with one. This allows the lever to roll on the curve when levering against the basket and no part of the lever other than the curved part touches the casing so there is no risk of damage to it. Pushing the basket outwards will push the hub off with it. A couple of jolts normaly moves it. Just be careful what you are levering against, particularly the mating face where the clutch case fits. If you have a puller whose legs will fit behind the basket, that would be the better option.

Once you've taken the nut off the basket/hub there is nothing holding that assembly on the gear shaft. The reason it won't come off (unless someone has altered the way it is secured from standard) is probably because the hub is tight or stuck on the gearshaft splines. You can gently lever the basket outwards with something appropriate like tyre levers with curved ends (obviously gently without damaging casing mating edges or anything else) as it won't be seriously tight, not like a taper. Or, better, you can use a puller behind the basket if you have one that will fit. Pulling/levering the basket off will bring the hub with it. The basket has a needle roller bearing which sits on a sleeve that slides onto the shaft. As well as this sleeve there is a shim and a distance piece. All these should remain on the shaft when the basket is removed, it's unlikely the sleeve will come off inside the needle roller but check it doesn't. The other two pieces will remain on the shaft.

Pilot screw generally is 1 and half turns out as a starting point and then it is fine tweaking of both to get the final positioning right - how much tweaking depends also whether you want to run it with a tickover or not. As these bikes will ride well just on the throttle without use of the more modern clutch/brake technique they'll run better without a tickover but that is just personal choice. It's also easier to set up without a tickover. If you do run it without a tickover the throttle screw should be turned in just enough to give a tickover and then backed off very slightly until the engine just dies, don't turn it any more. Adjusting it this way means that if you have rolled forwards on the bike with the throttle shut, when you open the throttle again the bike should pick up immediately with no lag as it is already drawing in minute amount of mixture with the throttle closed, not enough to fire it but enough to help it pick up cleaner when you open the throttle again. You don't say which model Bult you have, earlier 250 had the MK1 Amal concentric, later models had the Amal MK2. Both have similar jetting I think, no personal experience of the later model with MK2 but MK1 has pilot 20, needle jet 106, main jet 150/160, needle on middle clip, slide number 3. Check what is in yours as who knows what may be in there after 30 odd years. The earlier bikes run pretty well on the original concentric Amals as long as they aren't worn obviously - after 30 odd years there is a chance it may be which could also be your problem, depends how much use it's had. The new concentric Amals that can be bought now don't seem to work as well, I've just fitted one to my type 49 Sherpa with the original jet size specs and slide number and it won't run like it should...

That's because every time I ride one I break it and it takes me 12 months to get it fixed again.... TYZ is the only one I can't break - it's old reliable...

Depends on what you need but there is no specific specialist at the moment catering for Montesas here in the UK so you may struggle for engine parts. You can try Millers, Gordon Farley but unlikely they'll have much. Dave Renham via In-Motion is starting to stock parts for other marques as well as Bultaco so try there too. Sandifords are no longer interested in the old stuff (so I'm told) and have sold most/all of their spares stock to Jeff Nolen in the US who trades under Vintagedirtbikes.com. There is also Southwest Montesa in the US. In Spain there is Ivan Cirre who has a lot of parts but you can't order with paypal or credit card of his 'net shop, you have to send a draft or bank transfer (or at least you did) so it is a bit awkward. Try Ellastone Offroad or Steve Goode for used parts and there are two sellers on ebay - Classic Parts and Trickytrials - who regularly put used Mont parts up for auction (some on there now)

Yes, there were quite a few who rode yellow on twinshocks/Pre65 although there was no actual class for those bikes on that route on the entry - they put one in on the day. It's not really a problem as to ride yellow a rider can enter under O/40 or Novice, doesn't matter what type of bike, but as there were a reasonable number on the old bikes, maybe they could have their own class. I may drag the TYZ out this year anyway and ride intermediate route

For a bit of a discussion on shocks have a look in the twinshock forum under the topic of 'Bultaco Sherpa shocks' as the same will apply to your bike. Also, if you look back through the twinshock or Pre65 forum topics you should find quite a few discussions on shocks which should give you a few ideas

Have some posts been deleted from this thread...!!?? So it's finally been mentioned that reducing the squish will also increase compression - another cause of detonation - but a day after recommending it should be done so it is a bit late. The recommendation to remove metal from the base of the barrell (post deleted?) doesn't mention that this will also alter the port timing. Machining say 1mm off will mean that the piston at BDC no longer fully clears the transfer port and this can cause lumpy running off idle - I know this from experience. That is in addition to the increase in compression. Another reason not to go indiscrimately hacking off metal.

At the moment, the UK post office cost to send something to USA for example is

Thanks for that Spud, not long to wait then. Can I make a suggestion/request to any of you Llanfyllin lads regarding classes - I know a few riders on Pre65 and twinshock who will ride the yellow route - any chance of having Pre65 and twinshock class on yellow route too as it is an ideal and more challenging route for more capable riders than the white.

Any of you Lllanfyllin guys have any info on the trial being run this year. Just wondering as I haven't heard or read anything about it yet. I remember there were land issues with nesting birds last year and think it was mentioned the trial may run later in the year to avoid a similar problem