woody

Never ridden a Miller framed Bultaco but I would think the main advantages were lighter weight and improved ground clearance through the use of a seperate bashplate instead of the standard Bultaco's frame tubes under the engine. I'd doubt very much that the steering was any different to the standard bike at the time the Miller frames were introduced as Miller developed the Bultaco with a steering angle that he considered to be the optimum, so it is likely that his own frames were the same. May depend on the year as Bultaco steering angle altered slightly after Miller had left to suit their factory riders of the times and changing sections I guess, so a later, say post 75 bike may have different steering than a Miller frame. Can't honestly see any logical reason why they would grip any better, I think the main reason for producing them (apart from being a nice little earner) was that they were stronger, lighter, more ground clearance and probably looked better with their polished finish. Whether this really gives any noticeable improvement to the handling/performance of the bike is probably down to personal opinion ultimately. Please don't take this as a definitive appraisal of the differences as there may be more and I'm only making an assumption about the steering. If you aren't interested in buying the bike there is someone who is very keen on buying one who has posted in the Classic forum, so you could always put him in touch with the seller if it's not for you.

Not much more to add to the Seeley info provided by motomike - In the late 70s Honda were enjoying some success with Rob Shepherd riding the 305 works Honda which evolved into the RTL360 which Lejeune later took to three world championships in early 80s. Honda wouldn't build a production version of these bikes much to the disappointment of Honda fans, but they did commission Colin Seeley to build a mini version of the bike which was the Honda Seeley 200. In looks it was very similar to the works bikes but was powered by the engine used in the RS200. Seeley made a few changes to it such as weighted crank, 198cc instead of the standard 194, maybe a couple of other things which I can't remember but still the same motor essentially. Between 3 - 400 were made which makes them a bit of a rarity these days. They were expensive at the time and I'm not sure how well they sold. They weren't a bad bike but not as good as the front line bikes at the time such as Fantics etc. Initially the steering was based on a Bultaco, but I think they altered it soon after - certainly doesn't feel like a Bultaco does, feels quicker. A few 250 versions were built for Lejeune and and others to ride in the Scottish and some world rounds. This isn't an easy conversion as it requires a longer stroke on the crankshaft as well as an overbore. Here's a link to Brian R's site which has pictures of a Seeley and also, on the Home page is a picture of one of Lejeune's RTL360 works bikes. Brian R's Honda website As regards TL200 I don't know anything about them so can't tell you anything worthwhile. If it turns out to be a TLR200, they are a good bike and well up to the job of twinshock events or clubman routes in modern events

Nigel Birkett has recon kits for the TYZ calipers. May also have a used caliper. I'm pretty sure that the caliper is the same as used on other bikes at the time too so shouldn't be too difficult to source one. There's someone breaking a 305 Fantic and a JCM on ebay now and chances are they used the same caliper. Birkett's will tell you and may also have a tip for freeing off the bleed nipple

Never mind Taddy, although a tremendous result no doubt, our very own local (localish to me anyway) Tom Sagar finishes an incredible second overall in his first attempt too - ahead of Brabrook and Edmondson. Couldn't happen to a nicer lad and I'm really pleased for him. Hopefully a confidence booster for the rest of the year in the junior WEC.

Nice report Malc, I don't know how you remember it all, let alone put it together. Very enjoyable day out, great ride round (helped being on the Jumbo which is quick on the road, if I'd been on my C15 I'd have been coming back in the dark....) Yes, gentle sections but that is the nature of the Miller series. Riding a near standard Pre65 would make the sections more of a challenge and a clean ride very unlikely, which is the type of bike it is really intended for, but they are now few and far between in this series - why is that? Sections, with the exception of the first double in the 3rd group (would have been a bit exciting on an original Pre65) are ideal and with 2 routes something for most abilities so where are they all?

Clutch is now a lot better, not perfect by any means but at least useable and it's not going to aggravate my tendonitis pulling the lever now as the action is lighter. After discovering that the clutch arm was rubbing against it's housing inside the casing I fitted the spare casing which has the different '3 pointed star' shaped actuator. This doesn't rub against the casing and consequently gives a lighter and smoother action even without the arm extended. So that was one area improved. The second, which is the snatchy grabby action of the plates has been improved by fitting the plates from the spare motor too, which I assume are originals. After trying it today, result is much better take up on the clutch than with the suflex plates and the horrible graunching noises are now much reduced. Not perfect still, but it will do for now - I'm sick of the sight of that clutch...

It's at The Smithfield which is in Rhayader itself. As you go into Rhayader and down the high Street (from our direction this is, from Llandrindod) you go past ET James on the left and come to the clock tower (at least I think it's a clock...) in the middle of the road. Turn right here and it is about 100 yards on the left. Should be posted off the high Street anyway.

Had another attempt to cure the clutch woes after using ATF didn't make a jot of difference. This time I thought I may as well extend the arm on the actuator too as the pull on the lever is still too much for constant use. The actuator on this bike is the circular type as described above. The 'ramps' on the back of the actuator which run on the ball bearings look ok with no grooves or anything that would cause irregular movement. However, I did notice that where the arm extends out of the actuator housing it rubs on the side of the housing for the length of its travel, the section that it rubs against being 'ramped' also to presumably help move the actuator out of the housing when the clutch is applied. This appears to be by design but I can't see why it is needed as the 'ramps' on the back of the actuator are enough to do that. Moving the actuator by hand, you can see where the arm is rubbing against the section of the housing and it is rough in action. I imagine that this is what is causing the erratic take up of the clutch as the arm may be sticking along its travel, particularly when doing the ride in 3rd slowly whilst slipping the clutch test. Although I can't see why it is designed like this I resisted the temptation to grind off the offending piece and took the clutch case off the spare motor to compare. This one has the star shaped actuator and the arm is free in movement, there is no ridge in the casing for it to rub against. I fitted this case and it is immediately obvious that the action is lighter (but still not enough....) and more importantly smoother. Tried the bike and it has improved things definitely, but the clutch itself still has a snatchiness about it and take up in 3rd is nowhere near as precise as it needs to be. 2nd is acceptable at best. Still, at least it is better than it was so I think on the original case, I will grind off that section where the arm is sticking and see how it feels then with the extended arm. May also try the complete set of plates out of the other motor too, just out of curiosity. At least I should be able to use it on Sunday now.

Had a look at the clutch tonight - plans to do it yesterday fell apart due to a 30 year reunion with a lot of old work buddies on Saturday night which went on until about 4am. Sunday apparently, passed me by - 30 years ago I'd have just gone straight from the party to a trial.... Checked the basket first and smoothed off all the fingers where the plates have caused ridges - had my glasses on this time so could see the ridges I couldn't see last time I looked when I wasn't wearing them - another reminder of a passing 30 years. They weren't too bad as it happens but baby's bum smooth now. The splines on the clutch hub are fine so the plates have a nice smooth action in the basket. Next checked the gear (18 in the diagram) as this wasn't a tight fit on the shaft and the bush appears worn. Swapped it for the one out of the spare motor (which I am now convinced is from a bombadier) and this is a much better fit although still a tiny bit of wear in it. So now the clutch basket with its new bearings/sleeve and the gear both have a lot less 'rock' when sitting on the shafts. They've definitely been catching one another before. The clutch actuator is fine, no wear and smooth in action. Haven't had time to extend it yet. Adjusted it per the manual with cable disconnected. Clutch is all assembled as it should be. Moved the secondary cable down a notch on the lightener arm and lowered the mounting point for the outer to keep it in line. Made sure the pivot was free and greased on the arm and everything is free in movement. Tried it around the garden and the action is now lighter and about how I thought it would be although it needs to be lighter still to make it comfortable to use on a regular basis - which may be the case as it is not an easy bike to ride just on the throttle with no clutch due to it being a bit lumpy and quick off the throttle.. Carb tweak, timing and a flywheel weight may sort that though. The drive take up felt better but it still isn't right. There is still some juddering on take up in 2nd and above and the bite point catches me out as it isn't consistently in the same place. If I ride in 3rd gear again, as before, slowly with the clutch just around the biting point there is still some grating going on but it is not as violent as before but it still hasn't got smooth take up in 3rd, needed for example if going from nothing out of a turnn up a big climb. If I kill the engine though and dip the clutch with the bike in gear it disengages perfectly and I can move the bike backwards and forwards as though it is in neutral (try doing that on a modern bike....) so there is no problem at all with the plates disengaging. Perhaps it's now down to oil, so tomorrow I'll try some ATF in it and see what happens. At the moment it's Silkolene light which there is nothing wrong with but maybe this clutch just doesn't like it. Thanks for the help and advice, I think whatever happens now it will be in a useable state so I'll give it a try on Sunday at the Miller round. I'ts a bit more modern than I'd like to ride in the Miller rounds really but I've got to try it somewhere so Rhayader will do. Just got the shocks to sort now...

He had the ability before, I'd guess a couple of good results have now given him the confidence and consistency he needed. The others must be thoroughly demoralised. Wonder if the know-alls who maintained that the 4RT wasn't competitive in WTC (without having any actual substance behind the opinion) will still argue that point.....

so are we saying here that the PVL sold by Sammy Miller for a C15 is not suitable for trials?

Thanks for this Martin. Both spacers (1) are fitted. I've never noticed that the lock washer (9) should specifically fit one way round so I'll check that too, although it seems to be located ok on the splines. Clutch nut is definitely on the correct way and locates ok. Also wasn't aware that the gear could be installed the wrong way around. I've never removed it but the clutch has definitely been off before I got the bike so I'll check that too. I'll have another go at it on Sunday and let you know. Maybe the pick-axe won't be needed just yet...

Something to be aware of if you do remove the distributor for PVL ignition. The distributor drive shaft also drives the oil pump from its bottom end. When the distributor is removed there is nothing to hold the driveshaft in place (as far as I am aware - there isn't on mine anyway) therefore there is nothing to stop the drive shaft riding up in its housing and disengaging from the oil pump which means the oil pump is no longer driven - not good Mine had a blanking plug which I never gave a second thought to but last time I put the engine back together the driveshaft wouldn't stay located in the oil pump, it kept disengaging when the engine was started as there was nothing to hold it in place. Why this has never happened before I have no idea but I've been very lucky. I refashioned the blanking plug and made it longer so that it rests upon the top of the drive shaft and holds it in place now. Maybe there was/is something missing on my bike to locate the shaft but I can't see anything on parts diagrams. Just something to be aware of. I've heard that some people also use B25 pistons in the C15 as they are flat topped and reduce compression giving a softer bottom end - combined with moving the carb backwards. Not sure if moving the carb back improves torque but it will soften the power delivery by slowing up the gas flow. 22mm Amal will increase response off the bottom end over a 24mm as it increases gas flow due to smaller venturi. So using a 24mm and moving the carb back should provide the best combination for a softer power delivery - in theory anyway... The pre65 brigade in this area reckon that new Amals can come with casting flaws in the airways. Without question, the one I bought had very poor airflow out of the pilot jet housing when an airline was stuck on the pilot inlet at the rear of the carb (with the pilot screw removed and a finger blocking the hole. One of the boys that knows drilled out the pilot screw air passage, tapped out the swarf and when we repeated the airline test there was a much stronger blast of air out of the pilot jet housing. Still however, the bike used to cough stall a lot when opening the throttle (and if anyone else says 'you're trying to ride it like a 2 stroke' I'll swing for them...) unless the pilot screw was right in, or quarter turn out at most. I put the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner last week which should remove any obstruction from the airways and now it will pick up cleanly with the pilot screw just over 1 turn out so maybe there is something in what they are saying about the Amals having flawed casting in some units. I'd also fitted a new PVL too, so it could also be that which made the difference - I'll never know now. I was convinced the PVL that was fitted when I bought the bike was faulty as the swings in performance were to radical to be carburation. When I removed the old one (having bought the replacement already) I found that the earth to the frame from the mounting bracket was not too clever so it could have been that too. However, I cleaned that up, fitted the new PVL, re-fitted my nice clean carb and it runs ok now - should know by now to only change one thing at a time..... I can also recommend the book on C15 by Rupert Ratio (yes, that is the author...) as it has lots of little tips on running and maintaining a C15 - usually find one on ebay but Merlin books have them I think.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I've tried most already but haven't looked to see if the condition of the actuator where the ball bearings are is ok, so I'll check that. Haven't yet tried extending the arm either as I was hoping not to have to do that. Cables and routing are all ok and the lightener arm under the tank is free in its movement. I've also tried a single cable (new) from a 280 but the problem was still there. The actual pull/release action on the cable is smooth enough but it is just too heavy. That's one problem. The other is the mechanical graunching/thrashing noise when engaging the clutch together with the eratic take up. If I ride in 3rd gear slowly with the clutch just around the biting point it's almost as though something somewhere is going in and out of mesh as the drive take up drifts in and out. Sounds and feels horrible. Gearbox is definitely ok as there are no problems at all when the clutch is disengaged, so clutch is definitely the cause of it. Condition of the basket and centre hub all looked good where the plates slide but I'll check them again and make sure and also check again that the adjustment is correct on the actuator. Plates are all new. My other suspicsion is that the clutch gear assembly is worn where it sits on the 2 roller bearings and is rocking/wobbling on the shaft because there are marks on the kickstart gear that sits behind the clutch which indicates that the basket is catching it. The mark isn't constant all around the gear, there are several marks, equidistant around the gear indicating that the basket may be rocking/oscillating to cause that. I wondered if this is what was making the hideous graunching noise when the clutch is used. So I fitted a shim behind the existing spacer that sits behind the clutch hub and this seemed to improve things as it stopped some of the rocking on the shaft as well as moving the basket away from the gear. I've now bought 2 new roller bearings and a sleeve, so I'll fit those, try it with the shim and re-check everything suggested above and see what happens. If I'm not riding it at the Rhayader Miller round Malc, don't ask how I got on, because it will be at the back of the garage with a pick-axe handle sticking out of it....

Question for any of you SWM owners whose bikes have a nice light clutch action - How do you set up the clutch spring tension? Are the pressure plate bolts tightened right up to the end of their travel and left like that or are they then backed off so many turns. Bike in question is a Jumbo which has the lightener under the tank connected up but the clutch action on the lever is very heavy - the pressure plate bolts are screwed all the way in so I'm wondering if they should be backed off a little but as I have no manual or set up info I've no idea. I can experiment obviously but if someone knows how they should be set it would make life easier than trial and error. Although it is a Jumbo I gather the clutch is the same as the disc valve models. If I can at least set the pressure plate pressure correctly it may also cure the other clutch problem which is the snatching, graunching, juddering action that is worse than a TLR and which, along with the heavy action, is making use of the clutch impossible. Any help appreciated thankyou and then I can go and try it out in the next Miller round

The Gripper on ebay is a normal Gripper with a slimmed down alloy tank as I know the previous owner who had it done. Forks are telescos which some Grippers were fitted with instead of marzocchis, so they're a standard Ossa fitment. Same seller also has a MAR which has several 'special features' such as a well engineered exhaust - looks like standard front pipe and middle box with an aftermarket tailpipe from a trail bike or such like, if it has a special system why not show it. Works side panels?? Twin spark ignition - no idea what that is, I'm guessing someone has put a spare plug where the decompressor is fitted so that it has two plugs, unless it really has got one. The head may be special though as it is on back to front.... (ok, joke - it doesn't actually matter on an Ossa as it will go on either way - just looks strange) The bikes actually look very tidy examples and in the case of the Gripper has had an engine rebuild by the previous owner. Just not sure about some of the seller's claims on several of the 'selling points' Getting back to the Gripper tank issues, there are plenty of alloy tank/seperate sidepanel models here in the UK as well as one-piece fibrelass models. I'd guess the parts list only shows the one-piece units as that is how they left the factory and were converted to alloy when they came to the UK. I remember being up at Peter Quinn's place about 15 years ago and seeing quite a few one-piece units hanging up and assumed they were some of the units taken off bikes that were fitted with the alloy versions - wonder where they have all gone now. The tank in the picture in the previous post is definitely a plastic (or whatever) tank and you can see the petrol level through it. For a replacement side panel unit, try Mainly Spanish Motorcycles as he used to have some and may have some left. Use google to find his website/contact details. Or try Wakefield Offroad in the UK 0044 1924 217124 as they have some used parts for the Gripper.

The alloy tank was probably the UK version due to the ban on fibreglass tanks on the road back in early 70s - not sure how long that ban was in force for, maybe even still applies today. Most of the Spanish bikes had a replacement alloy tank although some used a fibreglass cover styled like the original over the top, such as Cota 247. I'm pretty sure though that there are seperate fibreglass tank/seat units too on Grippers as I've seen fibreglass tanks on their own - unless someone has seperated it themselves of course. Whichever the Gripper was fitted with though, one piece or two-piece, the seat fixing should be the same on either. That's a lovely looking Gripper SpudPlark

That's the Saturday trial that starts at 4pm, The Forest Trophy trial is Sunday

Any news on entry list/riding numbers yet? Had a look on the club's website but nothing on there yet but not sure what closing date is/was. Start time in TMX was listed as 4pm... Are there really nearly 200 entries? I thought it was pre-entry only to cap the number of riders after last year

No, sorry Mick, thought I may have one still in situ on a spindle somewhere but no luck. All mine have the flat sprocket conversion fitted

Missed this post originally so only just seen it. Don't know the size of the spacer unfortunately and it's been a long time since I had a bike with a dished sprocket as they just bend the spindles which are made from chocolate, all mine have the flat conversion. May have a wheel somewhere which has the spindle through it and is fitted with a dished sprocket so I'll have a look to see if the spacer is also with it and if so measure it. Could be a few days as it is buried underneath stuff at the back of the garage.

Carlos Casas - Trialero13

If you're fitting a tubeless tyre to a Yam twinshock or mono wheel, make sure you try it out somewhere first before going to a trial with it. Every time I've tried a tubeless on either of these wheels it won't stay on the rim when let down to 5psi. I've had no problem with tubeless on Akront Ossa/Bult rims but never had them stay on the Yam DID rims, they always drop off in one or more places.

Problem is that there could be any number of reasons: - Springs too soft (unlikely given his weight) so that suspension is always sagging meaning it is always riding further down in the harder part of the stroke, which means it will bounce off stutter/braking bumps instead of cushioning them out in the higher part of the stroke. - Springs too hard for his weight, therefore not utilising enough of the shock's travel - same result as above - Springs ok but rear sag setting incorrect - Springs ok but rear sag incorrect and damper settings way off - May have been revalved at some time - Damaged components See what I mean.... Best thing to do is go by the manual. Check that the original springs are fitted - easy if he's owned it from new, not so easy if he hasn't but most rear springs have the weight/rating on them somewhere. Not sure about the fronts but assume they are original. Then return suspension to standard compression/rebound settings and set the rear sag using spring pre-load. Normally static sag is about 30mm and sag with rider on board is 95mm. When rear sag set, sit in the middle of the bike and bounce it up and down, front and rear should move equally. Then try it again and see if there's a difference. The EC Gassers are normally credited with plush suspension and shouldn't need tweaking for a 10 stone rider. If it's only an 05 bike the suspension, if unmolested, should still behave as new. If standard settings don't improve things he could send suspension to one of the suspension specialists (WHO UNDERSTAND WHAT ENDURO IS...) and explain what is happening and they should be able to set it up to suit his weight/riding style. I've had a couple of KTM rear shocks done by KAIS and been pleased with the result, they understand what is needed for enduro. KTM suspension is generally too hard from the factory, it's ok on faster stuff but too harsh on slower going in woods, over roots etc. The bike used to clatter off roots instead of ride over them. After it was done (softening the valving in the second half of the stroke, fitting stronger spring) it behaved as I expected it to from the factory - ie; like an enduro bike, not a mx bike set up for sand tracks...

would you believe there is one on ebay...... ebay