monoped

Mike - sound words of advice from Woody & The Observer - Don't do it!

Matt, I think you will find that the 38mm forks were fitted on the very last production bikes circa 1983/4. The footrest design was al little unconventional, but they did have springs fitted as standard.

Hi Kelvin, personally I always use vinyl decals as they are easier to apply and look better when laquered.

Paul Cowley @ www.shedworks.net did a great on my tank, no filler, all the dents removed and A1 paintwork. Highly recommended.

Hi the pegs that you are after were made by the Beamish Owners Club www.beamishownersclub.co.uk I believe that they are modelled on the modern Sherco or GasGas design and made from stainless steeel.

An 80 tooth rear sprocket seems extreme! Have you checked the primary gearing? It is probable that the duplex chain sprocket on the cranshaft (which drives the clutch basket)may be from a road bike. For trials use this sprocket should be 12 teeth, whilst you are at it check the size of the gear box sprocket as well.

I omitted the word "engine", it has a DT175MX engine

Oh dear caviat emptor - that's a DT175MX!!!!!

Hi - I have probably one of the last highboy frames (number 715) the type without a full rear subframe loop as pictured in Don Morley's Classic Spanish Trials Bikes on page 40, it has an M199 engine, all the cycle parts are stock Bultaco items, with the exception of the side panels, chain guard and the seat. Someone told me that the first number in the sequence of the frame number represents the "model"/design type ie SM1** = 1st design, SM2** = 2nd evolution/series etc.I'm not sure if this is correct, but given the number of years the production spanned it does seem logical.

Aye Big John, your right as usual. I've just got back from the BF memorial trial, Wiggy was there and you can guess what he was riding - a Beta. I don't know who won but it was close between Alex, James Fry & Ben Morphet. Regards to yourself, Davey and Chips

Hi Danny, There are several active clubs in the south east; Worthing Trials Club, Normandy MCC, TVTC, Bognor Trials Club, HRC, RRND, to name a few, all have websites and there are trials pretty much every weekend.

Well said OFT!

Aye Copemech is right - it is not a good idea to go out and practise alone just in case you have a really bad spill.

Hi Amo, Re TR77 green, I used ford signal green seemed to match the original factory colour to my eye - ford modena green is not a true match.

Try and google any of these: Thames Valley Trials Combine, Normandy MCC, Alton MCC, Reading, Reigate & North Downs all have websites with future fixtures for the year.

John C, contact Jim at the Beamish Owners Club, he will sort you out www.beamishownersclub.co.uk

Hello all, some more video to enjoy

Lee, I certainly hope so, as I have just had my 198B rebored to that tollerance. In fact they rang me under an hour ago to say the job was done and ready for collection!! The figures that I quoted are from a Haynes manual, I hope they are correct. Any thoughts John Collins & Big John? PS Lee I think all the Sherpa models had steel liners.

Hi Bogwheel, Rebore tolerance as qouted from the manual "the clearance between a new cylinder and a new piston, or a fully reconditioned assembly should be 0.0015 inch (0.038mm). Will need to run in for approx 2 hours at less than 2/3rd throttle opening

Excellent set of photos, thanks for sharing them.

Try this company www.motorcycleseatworks.co.uk

A nice piece of work - would I be right in guessing that you have grafted it into a cota 247 chassis? Have you made any mods to the KL engine? Bod Gollner made one in the seventies but only one so far as I know.

Does anybody have any tips on freeing the crankshaft clutch sprocket and clutch drum nuts? I have the clutch holding tool but cannot free the crankshaft or clutch hub nuts with the engine on the bench (I dont have an engine stand). Should I (1) replace the cylinder, piston & head and lock the piston with a locking tool or, (2) replace the bottom half of the engine in the frame for greater leverage (3) do both. Without locking up the engine there is tendancy for the clutch holding tool to come to rest againt the gear selector shaft, which I feel needs to be avoided as I may risk damaging or breaking the shaft. My inclination is to replace cylinder, piston and head, put the motor back in the frame, dispense with the clutch holding tool, lock the piston and use a long socket bar for additional leverage. I cannot see how these nuts could release using just the holding tool and a regular socket ratchet, as pictured the manual. Any tips, tricks greatly appreciated. Thanks

Cracking photos wingnut69, thanks for sharing them.

Thanks for posting the link B40RT, last Septmeber's Don Smith memorial trial was a great event, lets hope they hold another one this year.