husky

Hi,just got a 290 sherco 06,I love it but it seems abit rich from about 1/2 to full throttlle.It doesn,t rev out like the 04 I had a couple of years ago and smokes a lot if you give it loads up a big climb.Timing is on the original setting,premix is 75/1 synthetic/shell optimax,its jetted 35 pilot,120 main needle clip 3rd groove from bottom,idle3 turns out.Bottom end power is lovely,but i/d like more top.Any advice please?

1.9 non turbo is gutless,worth hanging on for a turbo,there's quite a difference.Make sure the head gasket hasn't blown,and change the cambelt and tensioners if they haven't been done for 36k.Citroen claim 72k but quite a few go before that=goodbye engine.Don't be put off,other than that they're bombproof.

I,d pay a bit more for a better/newer one.Sounds like its not been maintained that well,what looks cheap can turn out expensive with older trials bikes

The Chinese motorcycle industry is at the bottom of avery steep learning curve,their metallurgy and suspension knowledge is pitiful.Examine/own one of their pitbikes to see what I mean.China's price advantage comes from a workforce that works all week for a bowl of rice,but that won't be the same much longer.I would want to see their bike onthe market sucessfully for a couple of years with proper spares /importer back up before I bought one

Before you start it,put in top gear,pull in the clutch and rock bike backwards and forwards,you'll feel the clutch free.As for coolant 50/50 antifreze and distilled water is fine

A 4" vice should be enough,you can get a ton of pressure,try warming bearing area of the swingarm with a hotair gun,never failed with this method,good luck

You need to contact Sandifords(the importer)and ask for a certificate of newness quoting the frame number.When you have this you need an MOT issuued on the frame number,insurance likewise.Get in touch with your local DVLA office and tell them you want to register the bike You take it to them they inspect it and issue you a registration and tax disc.I seem to remember it costs

I take mine to a local tyre bay,they change them for

There are 4 programs built in,they come from the factory on the softest.Gas gas uk have the software to change them,I would think the USA importer would have too.Its a case of trial and error to find the program that suits you,most people find a raga powerful enough standard,you might make it too vicious.If you go back through the gas gas forum far enough you will find ther is a graph of the power curves,I looked at it when I got our ragas

There's no general faults,buy the best condition bike you can find.Ideally one with an o/40 owner who maintains it properly and just uses it for local club trials.Ask what maintenance he does,hopefully clean filter/carb every trial,gearbox oil changed every 6 trials,linkage greased monthly.Check the spokes are tight spin the wheels see if theyr'e buckled.Don't know where you live,but bikes from the south east tend to have the easiest time with no rocks to get bashed on and short distance laps.

Is it cheap enough that you could afford an engine rebuild if it gets worse,or is it noisy enough to need looking at now?Does it start ok,gearbox/clutch work properly?should be very a torquey engine that'll drag you up anything,they were a brilliant mud bike.,what does it ride like?

If you end up cutting the loom,Gribs way is the only way to do it reliably,or is it possible to get the later loom as well and solder it to your stator

get a 290 and fit a slowaction twistgrip,makes a good bike easier to ride.250 is less powerful but sharper and less easy to find grip

Good choice,if its in good condition and a price you think fair have it,easy to ride and maintain and no common faults,enjoy it

Jamie,you never said it doesn't run.Has it got compression when you kick it over?Does it spark? Does the plug come out wet/have you started stripping the engine,what did it run like before it stopped?Would you be happy with it if it was rebuilt properly,or have you decided you will never be content with it.You won't find any pattern engine parts other than seals and bearings anyway,so its not going to be cheap.Either do it properly or stick it on Ebay for spares,but dont break it up.You'll end up with half the bike andhalf the money.Decision time methinks

I experimented with a .5mm thicker base gasket on a 300 raga gas gas to make it easier to kick over,which worked fine.The downside was a softer engine which stalled too easily,and lost its topend power.I've gone back to the original gasket,and tolerate it it being harder to kick over.I suspect that on a modern trials bike small changes have a greater effect than you would think.I,'d use a slow action twistgrip with the 9t sprocket and see how he gets on.

I suspect that when you strip it you'll find a few more things wrong with it,it's going to cost more than 200sovs to fix it by the time you've bought gaskets,seals,main bearings,piston,small end had the crankshaft rebuilt etc.I'd sell it as is as a field bike or partX it .,first loss is best loss in my experience.Sorry to put a damper on your hopes

Got to agree with above post, I had a rotax Scorpa in '99,it definitely had the highest price spares of any bike I've had before or after,and it wasn't that good anyway.Avoid ,a Beta of that era was/is far better if you can find one still in good nick

They were a competive bike back in their day,but that was nearly 20 years ago.Have a good critical look over it,and see what it rides like and see what needs replacing.Pems of rochdale in Lanca shire used to stock the bits for them,I don't know if they still do.My gut feeling is it will be an expensive moneypit with some bits no longer available.I don't know your budget,but I would look around for an early(1998 onwards) montesa 315,which are still competive and are very well made with good spares availability and no weak points.Good luck

Considering the rev3 been in production for 7 years,don't you think the factory should have sorted this by now.Not right on an item that costs

Try putting it in neutral,sometimes the clutch drags slightly which stops it spinning over as quickly as it needs to to get a good spark.If the previous owner has used the wrong gear oil it can swell the fibre plates causing the drag .Does it start well from cold,and run well when warm,if so I doubt any carburation/ignition problems.

I take mine to a local tyre depot and get them to change it.Saves a lot of grief and costs a fiver(though some of my tight mates would rather struggle and draw blood than spend the money)