motovita

I am in the USA. The other side from Hugh's Bultaco though. I bought a common automotive condenser rated at .18-.23 mfd. The condenser I replaced was large (2 to 3 times the size of the automotive condenser I replaced it with), brass cased, and had a threaded stud rather a wire protruding from it. It is made by Mallory in the USA. and has only a #36 on the bottom of the case. The bike still will not start! I rechecked the static timing, it's fine. The spark at the spark plug gap is visibly different between the two condensers. With the new part the spark is smaller (not unreasonably so) but more consistent. With the old condenser reinstalled the spark is quite fat but seems like it might occasionally skip a beat. The engine does pop and try to fire more with the new condenser. It's Friday and the Trial is Sunday, Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Today I will try some ether in the intake, out of desperation.

I believe that is in fact my problem(the condenser). When I removed the condenser I found that the case is cracked. Now my problem is finding a suitable replacement. Does any one have a part number or application for a commonly available condenser? The local parts store is little help unless I can tell them what car I want a condenser for.

So I'm guessing that the second wire that is now running from the moveable contact to the condenser terminal was origanally intended to be a ground from the mag to the condenser mount. Would that be typical?

I'll find a condenser today. Can anyone tell me if the under tank condenser is stock? There is a mounting space for it under the flywheel as well.

Do you disconnect the points then? Or do you watch for a variation in the bulb when the points open? The lighting coil is still there, although there are no lights. There are two wires (green and yellow I believe) that are spliced together and dead ended under the gas tank. Curiously one seems to come from each coil. I've always thought of lighting and ignition coils as being seperate. There is also a second, parallel wire run from the moveable side of the breaker to the condenser, which is mounted up under the tank. This second wire seems superfluous to me.Of course I have spark and the machine ran fine for quite some time before it died.

Points have been removed, inspected and tested with an ohm meter. They are clean and work fine.

Pilot passage is clean (immaculate carb) as is the enrichener circuit. It seems the plug is getting slightly wet but as much as I've kicked it it could be wetter, but I've also put raw gas in the venturi through the air filter boot and a small amount down the spark plug hole (seperate attempts) with no effect. I've checked crankcase vacuum by holding my hand against the carb mount. It seems strong but I have neither a gauge nor a specification to measure it against. Float bowl vents are also clear. Can you suggest anything that might cause the crankcase not to draw fuel? Today I will get some ether and see what effect that has (I'm quite desperate at this point). I will also find a condenser and replace it although I don't see how that can be the problem since I'm getting spark at the plug. Any more ideas?

Spark is at spark plug while grounded against head. Timing set with dial indicator and cellophane to show opening of points. I initially tried to use an ohm meter to verify point opening but the current flows back through the primary coil to ground making this method unuseable unless I first disconnected the wire from the points.

3 weeks ago I picked up a 199A (1978 or 9 350) to try my hand at vintage Trials. I got a very well used example but it started right up and seemed to run fine. I rode it almost daily as I replaced various rotting rubber parts, missing fasteners and such (including a new air filter). It always started easily and ran well. Last weekend was our premier at a local vintage Trial. We both were doing well,considering our respective age and condition (me and the bike). After the 19th section as I rode slowly between sections the bike died as if running out of fuel or fowling a plug, not a clean cutoff like hitting the kill switch but a brief on/off, trying to stay running before dieing for good. I pulled the plug, it didn't appear fouled but I installed a new on anyway, that didn't help. I pulled the floatbowl off (stock Bing) didn't see any problems so I pulled the pilot jet cleaned and reinstalled it, still wouldn't start. Then pulled the new plug out to check for spark, big fat spark. tried flooding the carb a bit and checked the plug a couple more times still nothing more than an occasional pop or two. Now I've got it in my shop. I've cleaned the carb, it is immaculate and in good condition, other than some visible wear on the jet needle, but it ran fine. The float valve works properly and the float level is good. I removed the exhaust and checked for obstructions, verified both primary and secondary compression and vacuum. The piston and rings look fine through the intake and exhaust ports. I checked the timing, 2.5mm BTDC with strong looking spark at the plug. Just to be thourough I removed and inspected the points and reset the timing. Every thing looked fine. Everything checked out so I replaced the fuel. Still the bike won't even try to start. I'm at a loss. I can find no reason that this machine won't run. Apparently there is something I don't know about making a simple two stroke run. Please help, I feel both impotent and ignorant.

possibly flooded, try pulling the drain plug from the bottom of the crankcase (not the gearbox) and see if it's full of gas.

It looks like you have the bases covered quite well. In our club penalty points can be charged for improper use of Lycra.

Jumbo shrimp, military intelligence, Spanish quality.

If there's only one I wouldn't worry too much about it. You may be able to learn from criticism though. I would suggest that my critics show me how it should be done when they put on an event. Generally the loudest critics are the ones who never put on an event.

As I see it the U.S. importer has always focused on Sherco. I hope Scorpas become available here in the U.S. so we American riders can help them through their economic tough times.

Also what about the Jitsie steel plates that are advertised to make the clutch more progressive, has anyone tried them?

I just bought an unmodified 06 model and am learning to ride it. Mine came with a small clutch master cylinder and a large brake master cylinder. Are all 4Rts that way? I assume the 315 clutch master cylinder must be large like the brake side. It seems to me that it would then have a larger piston which would make the clutch action even quicker. can someone explain the differences to me?

Since the automotive industry also uses lead, will cars that are built or advertised to carry children under 12 be banned also?

Go to Scorpa's website. They say bankruptcy-yes, liquidation-no, and production is ongoing. This is good news as I have a deposit on an 09.

Congratulations on the new bike. I came to trials as a long time rider/racer also, and I feel like thats when I actually learned how to ride a motorcycle. Hopefully you have a good trials club in the area. I recommend you start riding competitions as soon as possible, youwill learn much faster that way. There will be classes for every level of rider and I'm sure you will find club members eager to help you get started. I'm a trials rider from Washington in AZ for the winter. I just have a road bike with me but one of the things I plan to do while I'm here is check out the local trials scene. I'll be in Tucson tomorrow, and in the area for a while, I'd be glad to stop and say hi. If you want call me @ 509-607-0354. Have fun Jeff

Replacing the friction discs fixes it on my Beta

Your rulebook looks fine. You may look at ours at INWTA.com. Our club is also dwindling. A good turnout for us these days is 20 total riders, that was the case before $4.00 a gal. gasoline etc., now I'm worried it will get worse. I used to think that we needed to make it easier and less expensive for new riders. I've tried implementing a trailbike class open to any bike with a rear trials tire (I've offered free used tires to anyone who needs them), and made new lines suitable for big bikes. I've gotten no response. To bad since this might convert some of the trail riders who are now destroying our trails with their knobbies. I've also tried offering a loaner bike to new riders. I have had some takers on that offer but never gotten a new rider out of the deal. Looking at our novice class (our largest class) I see mostly newer Pro Model bikes and I know that several people in the area have bought new trials bikes and don't ride competition events so it doesn't seem to be the cost of admission thats keeping people away. I'd like to hear what other clubs do to attract and keep members. Any suggestions would be appreciated.