trial pat

I had also problems with slightly leaking oil. the copy of the gaskets are not good. Bad quality around. maybe only one producer today. I could fix it with black 300 grade heat resisting silicon added from outside between head and cylinder. the power is top, so leak came from the chain housing. Best regards HondaPat, Swiss

Hy 4 RT fans. I could test both 300 RR and 260 RT yesterday in Switzerland. I'm a Clubmen rider, happy with my 1st series 4RT since 10 years (only changed oil), but mostly Twinshock mounted (Honda TL and TLR 250, last time at Ventoux Classic Trial 2015 in the red line). The new bigger gas pump ist felt on the 260 and I like the more tricky Tech settings. The engine is smooth, torquey and pulls nicely, clearly much better than my old 250 RT. The switch turned to 2 (soft) could be felt in higher revs, a bit less aggressiv, but no big deal in the 10 min test, maybe in the mud is more difference. Now the 300 RR. Wow, a big smile instantly at my face. This is really a great power bomb, very torquey, power like a works bike, you could do almost every thing in 3 rd gear, a great sensation in hill climbs, but I don't feel, this is too agrressiv (ok, I'm 90 kg). It becomes my new dream and want to have. But it costs CHF 10200 (about GBP 7000) against the CHF 7200 of the 260 inclusive the about CHF 400 nice seat for trail. hmm....Fortunately, the 300 RR is already sold out in Switzerland, so my bank account remains as it is...at least for another year... Grüsse Honda Pat

Hy Chappo I think the slow jet 20 is wrong, should be about 42 or 45. Would explain, why it only runs with the choke. New jets are always to recommend. Make sure ab out the original size, can maybe deviate 1 number, if different air box is fitted. don't think the 4 or 7mm makes a big difference, but 4mm seems to be good (used on my Sherpa M49 250cc with new electronic ignition) good luck, Pat

Hy TL 250 riders After riding 6 years Falcons 40cm (original is 38cm), I bought 40cm Betor aluminiums at Sammy Miller Products or tytrials.co.uk, with the softer 40lb springs. They are great and good value for the money. 150£ I think. I'm 90kg (lighter than the 102kg of the good old TL250). Oh, I forgot, the 40cm will have a problem with the original silencer, so needs another (lighter) solution. Using the same Betors but 36cm for my Bultaco M49. Keep the 4 Strokers alive! Patrick

Ok, great, thanks a lot for the 2 adresses. Do you know the correct jettings for main an slow jet?

Hello Cub Riders Thanks a lot for you Dellorto recs. I would like to go for the Amal to keep it original. Where can I get a prejetted one? preferably with an internet adress? Best regards Pat

Hy Have same problem. I bought a XL 250/350 kicker in ebay and changed the base with the TL 250 Kicker. This worked for 2 years, but now the base almost broke. Had to weld on some new metal and scratch it. Not so pretty, but it works again. Good luck Pat

Hi, My friend Walter bought a Tiger Cub 200 with the old (original) carb, which does not seem to run well. He would like to mount a new but Pre65 (Scottish) eligible carb, maybe an Amal 622. What do you recommend? Where can I order one already jetted for a 200cc Cub? Plus manifold. What about the heat protection, distance to the cylinder? Otherwise, what about a new Oko 22 flatsilde for clubtrials? Which jetting there? Thanks for some hints. Patrick from Switzerland

Hy, I used a manifold from inmotion.co.uk on a 250cc Sherpa M49. Jetting is 110 main and 45 slow, but on a 24mm Oko I guess yours should have higher jetting for the 325. Hope you get a reply from a T325 user. Bettter to start on the lean side and then go richer. Good Luck Pat

Hy, I'm in the same situation. I'm very happy with my Falcons on the Honda TL 250 and the Magicals look great, but I don't know which configuration would be the optima for my M49 Bulto. My favourite at the moment would be from Sammy Miller Betor SM Pro Shocks for

What about an Oko carb? http://www.twnclub.ch/classic_trial_files/patrick%20BultoM49_files/M49_tuning.htm runs better than the Amal, starts easily Happy Xmas Pat

Very nice Honda! Oh, so you changed the forks.. I was hoping to learn about some improvements for the original ones. I think My TL 250 usese the same as the RS. I'm looking since years for progressive fork springs to replace the old 2 ones: very thin 22mm diameter only and 55cm long (tube is 33mm, but very thick and heavy). Anybody can give me a hint? Best regards from Switzerland Patrick

Hy Bulto fans After 2 hours trial & error I'm quite sattisfied with with my M49 (1968): 45 slow and 110 main jet, air screw 1 3/4 on the 24 Oko. Feels quite strong and does no more shut the engine on down hills without gas. Next will be a club trial and check the spark plug for the colour. Maybe also experiment with the needle position to optimise. Grüsse aus der Schweiz Patrick PS: Habe USD 80 inkl. Post in ebay bezahlt, kam in einer Woche von Taiwan. Plus CHF 40 für 2 Düsensätze . Weiss nicht, wieviel ein Dellorto so kostet.

I did some trial and errror, just moving in small steps and try in the same section to find the best timing... Regards Pat

Hy Ross Thanks for the hint. I will keep it in my mind as a starting point, if the 120, 45 used for 250 Gas Gas does not work. Regards Pat

oh, I forgot, there are 2 Oko models, one with a powerjet (additional fuel corredponds to about 10 jet size) and one without. I think without is better, as the thinny jet soon will be cloughed. I just put a small wire into the rubber hose connecting the power jet, which makes it out of order. May be it works at the beginning, but I want no trouble during a trials competition, when it gets cloughed... Pat

Hy Mark For the Honda it is 38 slow and 100 main, clip in top position (leanest), Maybe 98 or 95 main is also good, but my jetting set is from 100 - 122. (original Keihin is 38 and 115), air screw abaout 1 1/2. I stared with 115, then 120, but in the middle was no power, so was long time on the wrong path... Manifold fits, some oil spray helps to fit the carb in. to the airbox an old Montesa conic rubber balg fits perfectly. Oko starts easier than old Keihin, a bit moore power I think, more reliable. Good luck and keep the Honda running! Pat

Hy I always folllowed the results of Nick Jeffries at the world rounds, when I was about 14 years old back in 1978. Great mythic bike. There was a CCM meeting with 4 thumpers at an AFATA Trial in Soultz , Alsace, France some years ago 2005. Great bikes, but I didn't dare asking for a try... http://www.twnclub.ch/classic_trial_files/ccm_files/CCM.htm Pat PS: Maybe a van Marvick BSA is more competitive...

Hy boys I was always wondering, how much better a more modern than the 40 years old Amal 627 carb would be on my M49 Bultaco. After succesfully fitting an Oko to my Honda TL 250 (ok, quite similar to the Keihin, as it is a copy, but was tricky to find out the good jettings), I did it again an bought for 80$ form ebay (Taiwan) a 24 Oko. I once read an article in todotrial, comparing Oko and Mikuni to a modern GasGas 250, main jet 120, slow 45. This is my starting point now in the 1968 M49 Bulto. Has anybody experience with an Oko and jettings on a Bultaco? Any advice is welcome, as it could be time consuming and frustrating to try & error... (On my TL 250 4 stroke Honda, I was longtime too rich and on the wrong path, till I went radically leaner on the main jet). Pat from Switzerland pics on http://www.twnclub.ch/classic_trial_files/patrick%20BultoM49_files/M49_tuning.htm

Hy I had the same problem, all bulbs were blown, when you start reving, even 12v bulbs. you need a regulator. I bought one from Electrex,co.uk in the internet from UK for 6V: http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/rg06-regulator-1325-0.html ooops, they are sold out at the moment, but I guess they will make new ones soon. maybe also another one from Ebay of a 6V Honda should fit. Put it to the one wire not yet used for the ignition coming out of the engine, importantly at the beginning, before anything else is connected. Screw it to the frame under the seat, make sure the bolt has contac to the iron of the frame (mass). It worked since then. Only the lights, with an additional horn (ac), the system breaks down...but light is fine. Let me know.. Regards from Switzerland Pat

Hy Mike The springs get shorter with the years, also some riders are heavier than others. Here some of my trials, maybe helps. My TL 250 has similar forks. above the long spring is a smal 7cm spring. I added on top of that another spring 3cm (found at a yacht shop, stainless...), because the springs got a bit smaller during the years. Taking off the top caps is a tricky thing as you noticed and even dangerous the first time. I use to pull down a small tube, that leaves space for the special clip pliers, with gloves, take take off the clip and slowly release the tube. Bought also new clips to be on the save side. My fork was very slow and hard, even with very thin oil, so I drilled out 2 holes in the inner tube at the bottom. But that might be more for advanced tecno freakes. Now, it is better for me, but my dream would be a one piece progressive spring. Unfortunately, with 22mm diameter, all other trial springs are wider and don't fit. I changed for summer in one fork the oil thickness. to 7.5 (mixed a 5 and a 10 oil). Good luck Patrick

Hy HondaTrials I fitted an Oko 24mm carb with power jet (deactivated) today, bought at ebay from Taiwan. Fits the inlet rubber, but to the airbox I found an old Montesa rubber (49mm instead of 42). After some trial and errors, the engine works quite well now. Slow jet 38 (like Keihin original) and main 112. I had to hang the needle at top clip (leanest) position. It starts easily and pulls at low revs. On the first street test, it is quite good, but not reving totally high, but pulls quite strongly now til 4/5 gas. I started with a 115, then 120, then 110, now 112 main jet. Trial test to follow soon. Does your TL rev up like a cross engine? or is there kind of a limit ? Regards Patrick

Hy Mark I fitted Hebos. You have to grind either the frame by 2mm with a small electric band machine (black&decker) as I did or the pegs. Otherwise they won't fold I chose the frame, because now I can easily fit other new footpegs. I now bought in Italy some modern pegs for my Cota 4RT, 2cm more back, which I fitted on the Honda. It is easier now to lift the front, but of course needs more forward leaning for narrow bends. But I quickly adapted an like it. Hope it helps Reagrds from Switzerland Patrick http://www.twnclub.ch/classic_trial_files/...files/honda.htm

if it is a Honda TL 250 4 stroke 1975/76, then it is important that the ignition is set properly: distance of the breaker 3-4mm, check timing with a stroboscopic flash, check, that the mechanical advancer works. Mine had something in the exhaust, be sure, exhaust can breath freely Do you mean idling at low revs or it does not turn in high revs? Good luck from a Swiss Patrick

Hy, standard footpegs are too high. more down and rear is better. Have a look on my pegs. bought a folding kit at car park SSDT 2003, but only made them in 2008 M4900060 from my dad Mark, bought 6 December 1968. lever is still original, but had to adjust a bit for lower pegs. fotos speak more http://www.twnclub.ch/classic_trial_files/...estauration.htm regards Swiss Pat