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About pschrauber

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
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  • Bike
    Bultaco Sherpa 340

Profile Information

  • Location
    Winter North Germany / Summer South Finland
  • Gender

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  1. Yes you are right, I made wrong point setting while calculating as we here in Germany use the point for thousend and the comma for point just vice-a-verse to the English writing thus I mixed up everything ... (German: 2.000,00 = Englisch 2,000.00) ... excuse me. Anyway even that much less amount of air needs a couple of thousand volts to get ionized and that will not happen by a piece of plastic with probably some metal in it. If you want to gain some energy you might install a Helmholtz resonator inside the air box that is done by several car manufactors but needs much of space a trials bike does not have. Btw. a likewise principle was used by the boost bottle in the beginning eighties to port steered 2-stroke engines. Engines with reeds or with rotary valves will not have any advantage effect by the boost bottle.
  2. OK lets do some math: Engine size: 250 cc = 0.25l Engine revolution: 2000 rev./ min. = 33 rev / sec. So 33 x 0.25l = 2.062.50l = 2.06 m³ of air is used per second. Do you believe this tiny plaque is capable to ionize 2 m³ of air in a second? You can ionize air for which you need a couple of thousand volts, and if you ionize the named 2 m³ per second there would be a side effect of static charges to all metal near by that lead to violent lightning.
  3. The energy set or energy principle in physics is very clear: The proposition or principle of the conservation of energy is an unconditional fundamental principle: According to which no physical process can destroy or create energy, but can only be transformed from one form to another. So if you put this little plastic bugger in the air filter box will radiates so much energy that the engine will produce much more torque? I think these plastic plagues are nothing else then a nice fairy tale to cheat or pull money from people.
  4. I personal think a Christopher plaque or badge will give you a likewise advantage in luck and if placed in front of the bike even more luck will occur. Because as we know that luck is the most crucial part of trials riding. Much more important then in a row sorted O2 molecules if you ask me. These badges can be bought at Amazone, see here:ürs-Auto-Fahrt-Magnet/dp/B00GG4DNP8
  5. I do "reproduce" them by myself! Used and abviously a worn by previous owner: Self made filter for the TXR: You just need plastic foam glue and oil resistant universal air filter pads, with a thickness of 10mm.
  6. As mentioned dry chain lube do the trick very well. To WD40 you might look up for what WD40 is mentioned to be: "Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try" WD40 was invented by Convair for their Atlas rockets as a water displacement and corroion protection, and the 40'th try out of a mixture from peroleum and benzine finally showed very good results. As a dry chain lube I personal use "PDL Dry Lube chainspray" which includes PTFE, before application I clean up the cahin from any existing minral oil as if there is something left the PTFE will not stick to the metal and then it's like using the chain without any lube.
  7. Weather you choose: Rockshocks, Falcons or Magicals they are all very good. I personal like the Magicals best on Spanish twinshock bikes, as they simply fit best in look through their design with the colored springs. Magical even made special rear shocks dedicated to the Sherpa.
  8. Depends on your weight, if you are as heavy as Mr. Average which is 80kg with gears then everything is OK if you weight much more or much less then it's an issue. You can have the most expensive shock but with the wrong spring worthless, thus I would in your situation look up manufacturer that can provide a broad range of springs to your need. Then there is the look, (for me my eyes rides with the bike) and the shock has to somehow fit to the design of the bike, therefore I like: - Magicals on Spanish bikes, - Especially double spring Falcons with aluminium body on SWM, (these look even a bit more like Girlings), - Rockshocks on Yamaha, Never had a Fantic so here I have no ides.
  9. Mmmh beside getting oval the inner surfaces of the con-rod where the bearings are situated get worn, this happens to the upper and the lower roller bearings.
  10. Great bike and restauration, I like this model with the gastank seat combo and the iron cylinder (250cc) very much.
  11. Do whatever you want, you can just grind them off or live with them they will hit the gap between frame and fork center tube. I think it is up to owner and which tank he uses if: - original, - Majesty or - the plastic tank seat base combo, so I strongly believe everyone should find the best solution for his need, the aluminium stops are beefy you can modify them a bit too!
  12. lf you keep the rebuild and swap contemporary in appearance I would be very curious if there would be an issue as especially in Britain there are so many twinshock bikes with tubless rims and even forks from bikes of the nineties around. As long as they are fitted in contemporary way I think it is OK. Would state so even for Euro and Nordic Inter Cup. See here, (found photos of it):
  13. I have mounted them to my TY 125 / 175 and with a bit of research you find matching bearings. I believe I used a pair from a Suzuki DR that fitted spot on. I made a braket in CAD then the piece was laser cut out of T 6 alloy, bent and then mounted (looks very contemporary). So it doesn't matter so much that you have to fork of the mono TY.
  14. On later models like 199b even Made out of plastic. Anyway beside the sliders of the piston there is very little that has to be replaced in my experience. Most prune for repair or replacement are the stanchions und the power fork legs. The stanchions are often bent and the inner bore of the power legs shows often much wear. If the lower fork legs are worn out my personal fix is to let the inner bore be rebored mostly 0,2mm more in diameter and then too a straightening and alignment and re- hardchrome of the upper steel stanchions adding 0,10mm to the hardchrome layer thickness, that is the easiest was to get a proper as new working fork pair. It's a pity that the Betor forks don't have separate sliders for the lower fork tubes.
  15. I would ask about specific parts IF they are still available together with your frame and engine number. In my experience most small parts are if not you might too look up for used forks. For the UK BultacoUK / InMotion. Not available are these plastic rings around the piston that tighten it to the inner stanchion. As you have obviously a lathe at your hand you can refabricate many parts.