Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About pschrauber

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    Bultaco Sherpa 340

Profile Information

  • Location
    Winter North Germany / Summer South Finland
  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

13,066 profile views
  1. Kickstart

    Then you might have an issue with the ratchet or the spring inside, I would guess the spring and may be too the tension of it. Did you tried to change oil and accidently untightened the lowest screw underneath the motor?
  2. Beta 240

    Italian gumtree/craiglist for parts, that's where I get them from, from plastic to chassis and engine parts to my TR34. The only ressource that do work as there is nothing substaincel or in still fairly good condition available anymore neither to the TR 240 nor to TR 32/33/34/35, The only problem for just english speaking people communication is just in Italian sometimes French or German and first contact always through phone! Get an Italian English dictionary I would suggest. www.subito.it
  3. Laziest way to clean rust from a tank?

    Citrus acid, cheap, easy to use, the water where you have dissolved the acid should to be hot or very warm to get the result faster done. The neat thing it works too for all Kind of metals like Aluminium and will also declcify and thus erase other debris which normal rust remover can't too. So do also work for coffee machines and radiators!
  4. Pursang 370 stancions

    The manufacturer I mentioned will in heavy cases just apply more hard chrome so it can be grinded down again to the specific diameter you need. They have written it down in the website I put a link too (sadly just in German), see there when you use google translate to look at the page in English.
  5. Pursang 370 stancions

    You can repair them too, they can re realigned and get a new hardchrome surface too. There should be too some manufactories in Irlenad and of course there are some in the UK. You can also sent them to Wissing Hartchrom in Germany they do a very good job, they have done already several stanchions for me: http://www.wissinghartchrom.de/fertigung/motorrad-standrohre.html
  6. TY 175 rebuild

    The Mikuni VM is good and works good, you can replace it against something different but be aware that it will be costly to find the right jetting, needle and needle valve. The the flat slide carbs can give a slightly better Performance but these are more picky about the right adjusting and jettingh then old style round slide carbs.
  7. TY 175 rebuild

    These skinny fork tubes works well but are flexible and in a slightly harder crash they simply bent. I had my first crash with them in 82 in to get new stanchions wasn't a problem. Now its much more complicated. What you can do is swap to a TY 250 fork with holes or a TY 250 mono forks, both works fine, I stil thing the mono works even better because of its overrun and I done it to my TY. The rear shocks can be replaced to better. A really good thing is to extend the swing arm 30mm, you need a new brake arm then too. I have made a CAD drawing for that so the longer arm can be cutted by laser and have likewise holes like the originals. Mounting the engine reed cage of the 250cc model is a good fix, too get rid of all internal stuff of the airbox to get better breathe. If you come along a 175 MX clutch case from 74 and 75 that is too an improvement then you got rid of the oil pump and it's casing too.
  8. Carb

    Also that can be bought separate, use google search with your carb brand and model together with choke and parts. Just a bit of research ... how did you manage to crack that piece I have a TY with Mikuni VM with a likewise rubber from 1979 and it is still in very good condition, never heard about issues with this part but the one incident out of the rule can confirm the average ..
  9. Carb

    Order it (the rubber piece) separate, can easely done by the vendorer You bought the bike or which supplies carburators in general.
  10. Ty250 twinshock won’t cold start

    Try to use a hotter plug, they work better with a beit hotter plugs in general, how is the color of the plug: - black, - dark brown, - light brown in the middel and dark Brown around, - whitish to light Brown, I'am now using for all old bikes slightly hotter plugs with very good effect deoending starting running and durability of the plugs in general. Are the reeds still straight and do they close well, is the reed cage well sealed too?
  11. Carb setup Cota 349...drinks like a sailor

    If you want to stay with the AMAL and have a worn out needle please replace the needle jet too because it will be likewise if not even more worn out. Another improvement is to replace the slide against one with chromed surface thus the slide and the bore of the carb doesn't eat up against each other. Hansjörg Pfahler has made a batch of chromed slides fir AMAL carburators for Bultaco and Montesa bikes. You might give him a call for one, his Website is: www.bultaco.de Beat improvement is a dump against something that is not AMAL or BING. Here Dell'Orto PHBH or a Mikuni VM will improve everything and too gas consumption. OKO's as Mikuni clones can be OK too. I switched from AMAL to Dell'Orto and the bike runs much better / crisper.
  12. Engine Paint

    I use RH Motorradlacke a small German company that produces paint especially for motorcycles and motorcycle engines, very good products, nothing to claim very good against heat and they have or will custom make the color you need for whatever bike / engine and model you are looking for. http://www.motorradlack.de/produktubersicht/ For order special paint: http://www.motorradlack.de/farbsuche/
  13. M49 advice please!

    If I would be you I would look up EBay Gumtree or used parts motorcycle dealer for another hub or even better a complete wheel. You might too try to get a pair of Yamaha TY wheels so you have too the brakes sorted at once. You can too use bits from Alpinas for example, do some research and look your way through offers. My personal 2 cent opinion in cases where you just want a runner.
  14. Clubfoot verse Banana Muffler.

    The different design layouts where dicussed in German Trialsport Magazine (GTM) by Felix Krahnstöver, but you can read all about a following article in GTM # 107 page 50 ffp. from February 1985 in an article written by Dr. Klaus Simon who was at that time a trials rider and engine engineer at Sachs, in the article he discussed the different possibilities / set ups für rear exhausts from one chamber absorber- to one chamber refection and to the combination of both and where where where the advatages and disadvantages and very important how to construct them*. The article recieved special attention by the readers so he wrote two additional about trials exhausts for Twinshocks and Monos: In GTM # 128 page 86 ffp. about the outtake or missing pipe and the mid section of trials machines and how to construct them*, In GTM # 205 page 58 ffp. about the loading effects of two stroke pipes in trials machines and about their deimensions*. * giving rules of thump and ranges to what ever you want to archive. To two stroke engines with the technology of twinshocks and air cooled monos these principles are still valid today, you apply them perfect to most new aftermarket exhausts, if you would take port steering or other more advanceed motor control unit too in consideration there would be a design change of the given numbers in need. To back pressure, it is a fact that a standard two stroke engine needs a bit of support depending air mixture flush from the exhaust side to work well, you can't change physics.
  15. Clubfoot verse Banana Muffler.

    I don't think the Banana style exhaust is better then the clubfoot style and to me there are two reason. The first is very obvious the clubfoot offers better sound reduction so is quiter. The second is obvious too, the clubfoot offers more througput or flow rate as the diameter of the two tubes are bigger then the one at the banana type. Second the Clubfoot offers more general back pressure in the exhaust system through the mace of voids, tubes and "windows" which allows a mild rear loading effect to the charge of air gasoline mixture which was pushed out of the cylinder. The Banana style exhaust was an interims solution and invented after the tobacco pouch style rear muffler which did not show any good effect.