thall1

Hi, i need to make a new front wheel inner spindle spacer, does anyone know the length it should be... ?

As totty79 said check the visible items that he’s listed above but also unless he has receipts, then also factor in brakes pads front and rear, Caliper piston sets front and rear, rear brake master cylinder and clutch and front brake master cylinder.... I haven't a bike yet that I haven’t that I had to change them in the first year

Give beta Uk a call with the VIN number

Bvm moto, GasGas Uk..

Any progress yet ?

I know the feeling but I think you need to fix it first, if nothing else to be able to get a good price for it...

No worries!... it’s going to be a tricky one to sort out...a second bike to rob parts from would be very useful!

I did try all the swapping all the above parts when mine played up, fuel tank, injector, ecu, loom, temp sensor and a few times over but chasing an intermittent fault is tricky...

I think you need to try and borrow one first.. it’s a lot to pay out for if it’s not the issue. If the bike came from a dealer have a chat with them and see if they can help?

Mine was a 2006/7 bike but I have heard of newer bikes with ecu faults .. I think a new ecu is around £400... I think I paid about £250 for the one that was fitted on mine to test. The ecu is part of the throttle body. It’s all a bit tight but it does come out.

Just for your info , mine used to cough every now and again .. eventually it stopped and no amount of kicking would get it to start. It would start if I disconnected the fuel line to the injector and manually fed the injector but it would run very rich as if ‘choke’ was on.. hence why I later replaced the temp sensor. i got the ecu ‘read’ and it said there was a temp fault... so despite already fitting a new temp sender I fitted another from a good bike... still wouldn’t start or if it did it took 20-30 kicks and wouldn’t keep running. A loom was fitted from a donor bike and we thought that had fixed it but 24 hrs later the bike once again refused to start... ecu was swapped again (this had already been done a few times previously) and that sorted it.. I bought the 2nd ecu that was fitted and the donor bike had a programmable ecu fitted at a later date.

If it’s ‘coughing’ at the same time as when the fan kicks in then I’d be checking the fan. Run the bike up to get it warm, disconnect the fan and run it again, if it doesn’t cough or cut out with the fan disconnected then try a new fan motor or just borrow one from another bike to double check. 4rt fans come on pretty quick so don’t leave it running too long without a fan connected. The ‘cheapest’ check would be checking for corrosion in all the connectors and check for good clean earth points..I’d then be looking for corrosion ( and therefore high resistance) in the loom earth wires. Under the tank, there was on earlier bikes, a yellow connection block with a bundle of earth wires coming to one point so check this. You can prise open the block to get inside to see the earth rail and connectors. From experience I would also be checking from the capacitor back into the loom for black wire corrosion.. you’ll have to remove the loom and unwrap it to be sure. It looks like a nightmare getting it out but once the tank and Throttle body/ecu is off it doesn’t take too long. From the capacitor the earth wire extends back into the loom by about 12” then it joins into a ‘crimp’ connector with other loom earths from the rear part of the loom.. These earths then go forward to the yellow block under the tank where earths from the forward part of the loom all come together. You’ll need to get to this lower crimp to be sure that any ‘black wire corrosion’ from the capacitor hasn’t got past this point. Cut back the insulation on the capacitor earth until you find good clean copper, cut off and replace any that’s gone black. If it’s gone past the crimp point then just keep cutting until you get good copper and replace as necessary. Personally I’d solder new wire in rather than add anymore connection blocks. Don’t forget to heat shrink over the joints. If you do have black wire corrosion then I would probably replace the capacitor... from memory the genuine ones aren't that expensive (£40 ish I think) or I expect someone on here will know the values and you could buy from a electrical component supplier. There is also a temp sender in the radiator. You could try replacing this...Again I think they are about £25...On non ECU bikes the radiator Temp sender acts like a switch when the rad gets to temp to switch the fan on, however, on the 4rt it sends a signal to the ecu that then switches the fan on via the relay so the relay could be giving a high load?.. again try and borrow a relay to try or just buy one? After this, if it still coughs and dies I’d be trying to borrow an ECU to try. Good luck!

I spent a weekend re-polishing a 4rt engine case’s and tank after a ‘mate’ did me a favour and sprayed neat TRF while we waited for our turn at the bike wash! I just use hot soapy water and various sized kitchen pan brushes and a tooth brush to clean...Luckily we can hose wash off the lumps at the practice woods so I can avoid power washing at home..

I suppose it could be the fan motor drawing excessive current ? You could either borrow another fan or just park a bike next to yours and wire the slave fan into your loom and see if your bike still dies with the slave fan... obviously your fan won’t be working so don’t run the bike for too long!

The rectifier has the fins.. the small black box is the fan relay

The capacitor is mounted vertically on the rectifier plate... it’s a little smaller than a ‘c’ size battery. It’s tight to the air box so the air box and throttle body needs to come out I think.

On early bikes it was mounted on the rectifier plate at the back of the engine casing. The capacitor was mounted on the rh side of the bracket .. it’s a bit of a strip down to get too it as I remember. if you do get it out have a good look at the wires that connect to it particularly the earth... mine had ‘black wire’ corrosion right back up into the loom where all the earths connect... I had to strip the loom out and replace the earths. Mine was an older bike, 2006 So hopefully yours is ok.

Have you actually tried setting at 1800?... it is quite loud... very similar to a petrol lawnmower!

sounds more like the calliper pistons are sticking?

Hope this explains how we modified the rack

Yes that’s what we had to do on ours.... also fitted two Ali tubes sticking of the back to hold the lighting board onto...Board retained with ‘R’ clips... I think it’s a better way rather than using bungee cords to strap it to the bike.. also, we took the rear wheel ‘D’ tie down bar and welded it to the front wheel support to give a strap tie down directly under the rh fork. we replaced the rear support with a piece of box section with a hole drilled in to it to take a tie down hook...if you want to I can get some pictures later

Are the brake pads low on material?... 2mm of material is the lower limit - if they are ok try bleeding the brake... plenty of tips on here already as to the best way to do that... if it’s still no good then you’ll need a new master cylinder piston kit... I suspect that’ll be the problem anyway... check the Caliper pistons for signs of leaking or corrosion... If the bike is new to you then if you change the calliper pistons as well and rear pads you’ll know the complete system is new and Shouldn’t give you any problems for a while.

Never had to remove rear spring/damper assy when I’ve removed the carb... disconnect the throttle cable from the carb and the fuel line , air box needs to come off and the silencer then it comes out of the left hand side. Don’t let it put you off buying one... it’s really not an issue

We’ve got standard air boxes on our 4t’s... it’s a little bit fiddly but no bother once you’ve done it once or twice... usually 1- 1 1/2 hrs to strip out, clean and rebuild but it’s not something you should need to do too often provided you have a good inline filter fitted.

That’s the clutch basket rattling... pretty normal for a gas gas. How much oil have you put in... usually about 450 ml for an oil change from what I can remember. check you have free play on the clutch lever... if you have and the clutch still doesn’t clear then I expect the master cylinder piston will need replacing