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I have an owners manual that I can send you a copy of if you would like to PM me your direct e mail address.

Looking to service a 315r which runs great, anything I should be looking out for or giving special attention? And how do you figure out what year they are? Any manuals for the bike would be useful. Any pointers for coolant, gearbox oil and brake/clutch fluid (dot 4?). How often should the steering head and suspension pivots be stripped and regreased?

Hi, got an unknown age 125 4 stroke with a yamaha engine, monoshock. Trying to find out some servicing info or links to manuals for these, engine oil, brake fluid, carb settings etc. It does have quite a loud ticking from the top end, which comes and goes a bit but is there right through the rev range. It runs ok except a bit hesitant at low rpm. Any obvious problems with these engines that would give the ticking?

It’s a Aprilia Climber 280R trials bike. The model Climber was made from 1989 to 1994. I had a 1992 in the 90s, was the first trials bike I competed on.

Thanks for your input Feetupfun! hope all's well with you, sir!.. i had someone else put the new tires on that TY250 you helped me so much with a few years back ..but i'm going to do this Honda one myself...just need to get more confident with these things..won't hurt to have some windex/soap at the ready anyway...just waiting on a few parts and i'll report back!

Tubed Trials tyres usually go on and off so easily using hand levers I don't usually bother with lube but if I was using a machine to fit one, I would use lube to make the sliding part move nicely. I do use lube when changing knobby tyres with hand levers because they have such a stiff construction.

Not sure what you mean by always in gear, if the box will go from 1st to 2nd and vice-versa you're going past neutral. With the bike in neutral the final drive will still turn due to drag on the gears. Put the bike in first gear, then whilst turning the engine gently pull the gear lever up but not hard enough that it goes straight to second, or just tap it gently up with your hand. Hold the final drive with one had and turn the engine, if the box is in neutral the drive won't turn, if it's in a gear you won't stop the final drive turning. It might take a few goes to get neutral, much easier with the engine in the bike and rocking the bike backwards and forwards I'm assuming the detent plunger is fitted and working properly

Tubeless tires yes, the only place a tube tire bead runs tight is at the rim lock plus cars and trucks have a thing called a safety rim but his chrome steel rims lack that feature it will mount with low pressure.

Walk into any tire shop, motorcycle shop, semi truck tire shop, race shop at any track. They all use some sort of mounting lube. LOL.

I have been looking for a pair of upper fork legs for my 2014 Montesa 4rt repsol. Is there an alternative that will fit the 39mm Showa lower legs? Hard to find Montesa parts that don’t break the bank! Cheers

Now I gotta put something on the rear so I have a spare bike again 😎

Done 😎 how long did I take? Didn't see anything that needed water or soap except my hands, didn't need to wash the bike because it was last used in snow. Get the ~14" tire irons they make it easy after you get arthritis.

Thanks Guys! really appreciate you. Feeling confident to do it, baby steps ..lol. Just ordered some proper motorbike tire spoons (tusk) as i figured my 2' Harbor Freight irons are best just used as crowbars... Other than that the ol' tractor is in fine fettle! slowly getting better (at riding and wrenching) and all the mods I've learnt here have been a HUGE help! i know having a road legal trials bike is a huge compromise, but given i ride about as well as a drunken elephant probably doesn't make too much difference at this stage, lol Joyful weekend to all and thanks again!

On a tube tire 🤔 why make a mess, you do not need to lube a tube tire to mount it, you don't even need to pre stretch the side walls to make a bead seal because the tube will push it into place. Where would you want to put the lubricant 🤔 add that I don't mount a tube tire anything like that video but I know it will still work because I'v done it a hundred times. Going to change out a tire set today, same way I've been doing them for 60 years. I don't add air to the tube until the tire is mounted either! Rim goes inside the tire first, I leave the tube flat and just make sure not to pinch the tube or poke. I push on the rim lock bolt before adding any air to make sure the tube is setting correctly across the top of the rim lock shoe. Tubeless tires go on tight with a big bang and need lots of air pressure and water or lube to help pop over the safety bead, Tube tires don't go on with a bang.

I saw the OP at a trial 2 weeks ago, and asked if he installed the compression adjuster? He said he had not bothered in the end, and the forks were working fine for our conditions.

Replacing the intake manifold to install the Keihin carburetor requires removing the engine. A screw is inaccessible... A quick stroke with the Dremel to adjust the manifold diameter to the white plastic part that fits into the reed valve. This gave me the opportunity to add an extra 0.5mm base gasket, following J. Banyeres' advice. The Italkit S3 piston and connecting rod are perfect. This was a good opportunity to check the previous work. 45/125 jets. It seems like a good base. New footpegs, more in line with Lampkin's bike. 48 idle jet (adaptable), 3/4 open air screw. I'll try a Keihin 48 jet to see if my adaptable jets are properly calibrated because I thought I'd see more difference between a 45 and a 48. I made three 3.5mm shims to shift the airbox further back because the carburetor and adapter piece assembly are longer than the Dellorto's. The engine is soft at the bottom. I didn't lighten the flywheel on this one. The extension seems better... test on the flat. We'll see on the climbs.

Hello All, Recently rebuilt my engine, but I can't find neutral. Can change through the box using the kick-start, but it's always in gear. Any ideas? Thanks.

Don't need soap or water with mounting a tube tire except to test for leaks and to wash the wheel before you work on it. Edited yesterday at 06:09 PM by lemur The canuks must use Moose urine! Mounting a tire without lube is lunacy at best!

Are we allowed to plug Jitsie parts here?

Picture of what you have to work with might be in order. From your description all it likely needs is bags of money and many hours of wrenching. I say no to period correct parts, unless they are used and in need of service it won't represent a significant cost saving to buy obsolete parts. Here's the problem; if you don't have a ride that works near perfect you will not enjoy the sport.

@Binkso19 If you want budget friendly then you would be better chasing 38mm forks with the yolks/triple trees included then make the necessary mods to make every thing fit. this can end up being quite a task sometimes so you need to have some patience and expect it to cost quite a lot . if you are just looking to mess about on a trials bike I would just buy a cheap bike that already has all the parts on it and works. If you like messing around then I wish you the best of luck. Regards Alan.

www.betausa.com support service manuals beta evo 2009-2015 that will give you guidance the evo model motor is very similar .

I think that is very wise the clutch bearings are probably fine anyway. As you say its an old bike and it isn't really worth the expenditure , it will all work fine even with the kick gears in worse condition than yours are now so you do not need to worry as when you ride the bike the noise is a lot less noticeable. As regards changing the bearings its a doddle there is just 1 x bolt in the centre of the clutch shine a torch there and you will see the allen head deep in the recess this bolt is drilled and has a hole through it for breathing of the gearbox casing so it is weak you must make sure that the allen key that you use fits tightly or it will round off and you will have to drill the head off so care is needed , with luck it may be loose.