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Did you test or replace the 5k resistor spark plug cap?

I'm a bit surprised Beta kept the six fiber plate clutch pack. The one advantage of the diaphragm spring is its non-linear transfer curve. If the actuator is in the correct part of the curve the static holding pressure on the pack can be greater than the pressure needed to pull the clutch in. That's why the other bikes with diaphragm clutches use three fiber plates. And three plates means a lot less hydraulic drag. But Beta does like to milk parts inventory so maybe a three plate design will come in a few years.

Hi all bit off a problem here,,,,,, i have a ty 250. now we have power to the end off the HT lead but no spark. this is confusing the hell out of me. Has anybody out there any idea what it may be please

Installed a 9v as suggested in the thread. Bike started on the third kick cold after sitting for several weeks!

To make a complete set of wheels. Same base as the rear, Akront rim on a lightweight AJP hub with 36 spokes. After cleaning the hub, a pair of new bearings. The spokes and nipples are new (A joy to assemble!) And finally, a lightweight rotor.

Lol yeah had to drop the swing arm bout out and leave the lower bolt in so it came towards. Didn't have a lath just a mirror and 400 wet n dry and figure of 8 trees up the head. It was a weird warp as it was domed so the edges were high. Back together now but snaped the front lower ending mount. I do t think the 50nm torque is correct

This thread died a couple of years ago, but I'm starting to suspect that my starting issues are related to the OHTOKC CDI. The wiring diagram that was provided with the unit didn't match all of the wire colors on the unit. What did you find out? I'd also love to see the detail of the cold joints. Thanks!

SSDMC Trial 111026.pdf

Correctly position the disc in the brake caliper using a suitable spacer. Comparative measurement of the rim's position relative to the original wheel. (I shifted it all the way to the left to achieve the 60mm dimension.) The spacer on the sprocket side still needs to be made to match the original wheel's dimensions. All that remains is to adjust the spoke tension and mount a tire.

You are comparing Bias ply tires to Radial ply tires, competition rear trials tires are all radials. At one time they did manufacture radial trials tires in both tube and tubeless type (Pirelli did) , not sure that is still the case. ... Historically tubeless tires were an extremely tight fit to bead on a rim that was not designed for tube tires. Not all rims have a safety bead.

That's a yes, it's even the same part #.

Hey guys, do ye know wat side stands will fit perfect on a 4rt. Does thee 315 fit...thanks

Man, what a difference this new (correct tube-type) rear tire makes. I can't conclusively say how it works in the wet, and I've only been able to ride on my small property which is mostly dry with grass. I have cones set up for figure 8 practice, and 2 trees on a hill for cambered figure 8 practice. It's a bit easier for these drills, and much easier to come to a stop and balance. Dead engine balance practice on the floor of my barn is much easier. I still have a few more "issues" to fix with the bike before I can take it to a local Trial, or even a play/practice ride. The old Dunlop I replaced was the "Trials Universal" model. I think Dunlop makes better trials tires than that model, but don't know if they still make tube-type? Anyway, it was SO STIFF, even with 5 lbs. of pressure, it didn't seem to flex much at all. Getting it off the rim seemed much harder than getting the IRC on. With the same 5 lbs. of pressure in the IRC, the IRC's sidewalls flex and spread out a good bit more. Jimmie

A Fantic 200 trials bike (with the FM-type engine / rear-kick engine) requires 500 cc (0.5 liters) of oil for the combined gearbox and wet clutch. (Note: Older Minarelli-based Fantic engines from the TX series use up to 1.35 liters, which often causes confusion online, but the Fantic 200 FM-series takes 500 cc).

Wrong information. If you use the weep hole then the capacity is around 1350ml . Fact.

I have a few parts... I chose a polished AJP hub, GasGas type (for the inner diameter of the sprocket). Other advantages compared to the red Montesa 311 AJP hub: - both bearings are 6004 2RS - the center spacer is aluminum. This is simpler and lighter. I stripped the spokes to repaint them with 1K satin gray epoxy. Great! Final result: A clean wheel, lighter than the original, and tubeless! Now I just need to finalize the assembly on the Aprilia. Outer spacers and hardware. I still have a few ideas to get even more enjoyment out of this motorcycle.

Position # 111 on the smaller outer clutch ring has the softest clutch pull, and less front wheel blip and potentialy more clutch drag. Position # 1 has the hardest pull with more front wheel blip and less clutch drag. Position #11 is in between position #1 & #111. This conclusion after many weeks of testing on a 2026 Factory Beta Sincro 250cc

Thaks for the reply. I know having some shavings is normal and my bike is pretty new but to me it seems like a lot. I was warned that the 23-24 models had tranny issues. But whats weird is that as far as I can tell, the 19-24 trannys are the same and my old 2020 300 never had any problems. In fact the guy who bought it still rides the crap out of it. I did some research and the 2025 models have numerous new tranny parts in them so I went ahead and ordered those. As for the starting, I tried a low comp head on my 24 and it made no difference. And my 2020 never had any starting issues that I remember. And the guy who owns that one now doesn't have any starting issues either. I do remember putting a low comp head on that as well as a heavier flywheel but that was to simply tame down the power. That thing was a brute. I really like the way the 2024 runs. And handles. Sometimes its starts up super easy, then all of a sudden it doesn't. If your idle is hanging, that is a sign of it being too lean. Could be the pilot, or simply the idle adjustment is too high or the air screw too far out.

Are you talking about the transmission oil drain/fill? Yes, I did see some on both. Some fine stuff is normal I think for wet clutches that wear on friction disk/metal plate interface. I got the S3 low-compression head installed. Easier to kick and start, even in gear. I don't have to hunt for the just-past-TDC point anymore. Just get the pedal to the top at the hardest point and kick hard back and down. Before I would hurt my knee sometimes when it hung up at TDC. Another thing that helped with starting is new plug and especially a new iridium version. For jetting, I haven't changed anything, but I don't kick too many times with the choke on. Two max then turn it off. Usually fires up on the next kick or two. When hot I find that opening the throttle a bit during the kick helps a lot. I still have a bit of popping noise at low RPM that I think is normal. Also, the idle seems to hang and take a bit to come down after revving, but I am also thinking that is also normal for these bikes as compared to an enduro 2-stroke.

I have a 2024 TXT and have been chasing the starting/jetting issue since purchase about 3 months ago. I had a 2020 version and never had any issues with it. I have run stock jetting, leaner main, leaner pilot, up and down on the needle clip position. It has never run bad, always clean just not as crisp as I feel it should be. I have red where guys are running a richer slide. So with that in mind I have a 52 pilot (which I have tried briefly before), JJH in the #2 clip position, 125 main, stock 3.5 slide. Haven't ridden it yet but went out to start it and it was a pain. Actually started with the choke off but cleaned out really quick. The air screw actually made a difference turning it both ways. I'll ride it tomorrow and hope for the best. On a side note....anyone get a lot of metal shaving on both the drain and fill bolts?

Would that be your enduro bike fitted with USD forks? ... things are made out of aluminum on competition trials bikes because aluminum weighs 1/3rd. that of steel which also has a tendency to rust. Same as with your enduro bike the axle provides the majority of support required to keep the fork legs running as one. Everything is beefier on your enduro bike to the tune of almost 80 additional pounds. How easy is it to twist and or break a modern trials bike? It's not easy at all, I've launched my bikes off cliffs and experienced relatively little damage, but I do tend to buy other then Gasgas bikes which are not exactly the sturdiest in the market but generally are the cheapest to buy. Example your foot peg brackets are welded to the tube steel frame and not replaceable bolt on components attached to an aluminum casting. Tube frame cracks around the headstock have been reported by owners and many friends that do own current models tell me the rear fenders are very expensive when they needed replacement. Beta has an even more fragile front fender brace made out of plastic. Front fork stanchion tubes (also aluminum) are the most expensive part that can be easy damaged by just a small scratch, but you can buy sacrificial fork guards to help protect those.

Oddly I did just this on my 08 and turned a bit out of head on my lathe so was easier to kick over. Worked well.

Gotcha. Yes, I loosened everything, including the steering stem, and got it all lined up no problem. Still looking for input on how often this happens with trials bikes and whether I can ride without that brace/bracket in place. My enduro bike has no such thing and takes much harder hits, but the triples are beefier. Also, wondering if that brace is aluminum so that it is sacrificed instead of damaging the forks or whether I can replace it with a steel one.

That's what I meant by loosen everything.