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New head, perfect condition.

Wanted Beta Rev 3 Long range kit

Hi all, newbie here from South of England just starting to rebuild a honda tlm50 so may be asking for advice

Tried one of the slab back protectors and don't like it, replaced it with a Troy Lee Designs back and chest vest which is way better 👍 Thinking about purchasing a second Troy Lee vest in a different model to wear over the first one so they cover any missing areas. Nothing is cheap to buy any more. ... model is a UPV something

I think I might try 3D printing one. It will be a bit soft of course but I always warm my hub with a hot-air gun so it shouldn’t need much hitting.

Hi guys I’m looking for chest/back body protection for trials. trying to get a jist of what my fellow riders are using and what they think of them Some look bulky and others look to bloody flimsy and they’re not cheap Tia!

Thought I’d post here rather than the beta specific forum hoping for better exposure / someone who has knowledge on the subject. recently purchased a 26 250 Sincro factory. Noticed the bike seemed rich off the bottom particularly rolling off a bank etc first pick up on throttle motor really gassed up doesn’t clear easily. Best describe it like an SWM or bultaco from 80’s, actually sounds like that on the ear. Immediately thought of going to a 45 pilot jet to clean it up, worked well on my last evo but does make the transition onto the slide slightly weak so didn’t bother. Removed the fly wheel weight which helped and and fitted the extra fast throttle tube used on the TRSGOLD thinking I would almost bypass that problem part of the revs. It’s better but not perfect. Beta uk said a thinner base gasket helps and I’ve also been told a MP fabricated header helps low rpm response? Any Sincro owners experienced this or anyone know of someone that has fitted an aftermarket pipe etc or how they have overcome the problem? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Ignition timing is usually slightly advance to TDC typically 10 to 20 degrees before and the black box is what alters the spark advance more if the engine even has that feature, it might not. I found a parts manual online for that bike no problem no luck with a service manual. Faulty bottom end seals destroy the engines intake vacuum more then anything else (symptoms would be poor compression test, hard starting and not a crisp pop pop pop sound on the engine). Your CDI trigger coil should show some resistance, more resistance than the primary ignition coils typically have. The clearance distance between the stator coils and the flywheel magnets should be as small as possible for the best spark intensity. One of those coils is likely for ignition and the other is for lights or horn. Only way I know of to test the black box 100% is to have a second working bike and swap parts to troubleshoot.

Good Day , I have a 350cc Merlin Cagiva which has pretty much overnight developed an engine issue. It will now not fully rev. The engine sounds muffled when revved, like if the exhaust silencer was blocked ( which it is not). I have checked the carb, cleaned the jets, tried different jets and even tried a new carb. This did not solve the issue. I checked the coil and tried a new coil. This did not solve the problem. I checked the stator and tried various advance and retard positions. This did not solve the issue. For my sanity, can anyone explain to me how the CDI works? The engine when was running fine, the stator was pretty much on TDC. Does the CDI then deal with the timing of the spark when the engine revs are increased. Not having an useful specs for the engine, I assume that TDC is correct. Whilst taking the flywheel on and off, I did detect some movement in the main shaft. I doubt if the main bearings have ever been changed! If the bearings are faulty and subsequently the main seals may be faulty, could this possible be the source of the problem ( taking in air or pushing out fuel ). The engine is not smoking excessively, but maybe that is due to bearing/seal failure only being on the flywheel side. I have approached Rex's Speedshop for advice, but before I part with a small fortune on a new ignition system, I thought I would ask you knowledgeable guys for advice. Kind Regards Bruce

Google claims 500cc

Awesome…. I hate the Keyboard Warrior style on the Facebook groups. So glad to see it back

I have been away for a while but did not loose the desire to build a Peter Gaunt replica. Update! I had gathered quite a few parts and then dropped upon a very rough Peter Gaunt rolling chassis. Clearly showing the unique features of the machine. Having stripped it apart I am amazed at the strengthening of the swinging arm and frame. In addition it has a two-stroke tank brazed within the actual frame. A brazed in screw filler cap to the left side of the frame In all the photos I have seen on the net they show an external rectangular tank to the left side of the bike. Since this internal tank represents significant work, it make me wonder if this was just a few bikes produced like this. Or later iteration? I found one photo showing this detail with a young Mr Gaunt with it at a trail. If anybody could shed any light on this please. I will post some of photos of the detail. The swinging arm had to be repaired. Left side damaged and bodge welded.

Has anyone tried an MP titanium header on a new synchro. I’m looking to get a wee bit more bottom end out of my new 250 factory Sincro, have removed the FWW which has helped but been told the custom header improves the bottom end and sounds better too, anyone on here had any experience with it or know of someone who has?

Thanks for bringing it back! These days of social media have mostly made the forums of yesteryear obsolete, but those of us who prefer this mode of global communication sure do appreciate that a few still linger around. They're also troves of valuable information you mostly can't find anywhere else, built on years of personal experiences that are irreplaceable. Cheers!!

I think you are stuck with raising the peg profile or lowering the lever profile aka bending it. The levers do bend before braking, I have a badly bent one on one of my TRS now.

Sorry, yes I can adjust the piston, I’ve done that. But it’s the pedal physically hitting the frame that is stopping me from adjusting further. Do all TRS’s have a pedal that’s a lot higher than the peg? Do most people prefer this set-up?? On all my other Trials bikes I’ve been able to get the brake at the same height as the peg.

Thanks again Andy, dead easy to use

Results from Embley

Yes you can a little.., unscrew de piston on de back..!!