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yambits in the UK have oversize pistons

Thank you. They do sit better that way but I just wanted to confirm. They are listed on the In Motion website as Pursang only so no idea how they got to my gearbox.

Many thanks to yo both much appreciated with the information given regards Andy

Hi, If you are in the UK try contacting Westwood Liners. They have a website and are located in the West Midlands. They have a postal service and they will remove the old liner and refit a new one.

Shorty levers moved way in on the bars, slack adjusted to provide comfortable bend and range for the clutch finger, gives you the most leverage and friction range possible and your lever will never crush your grip fingers 👍 3rd gear pulls from zero to biggest thing I can ride so I ride almost exclusively in 3rd but that really depends on the terrain you ride.

Another thought... if you are out of oversizes in TY175 pistons, it may be possible to find a larger piston from a different motor. Oftentimes there is something close that can be modified to fit. But one non-negotiable is the rings. They must be for an iron bore, not Nikasil.

Thanks, I did see people suggesting that. And it might be worthwhile exploring for other reasons. But thinking I probably do most trials in 2nd, maybe 1st If it's particularly snotty, or 3rd if its an open bit. The ratios are fairly close. I dont want to change in section, unless i come up to a big obstacle. It's a compromise. Gearing down makes it possible to have an in between choice, but also means your gear has a shorter usable range. Selecting the right gear at the start is important, but my issue is the current range of operation is let's say 1cm and I want 2cm. It was quite aggressive and you had to be precise, it does seem more tolerant of my more sloppy riding technique, but driveway is not tree roots etc. Might be 3 weeks till I can test it. Thanks for ideas.

You might slow it down. It's awful fast with the stock gearing. Using a 9 tooth is the fastest choice. I prefer something in the middle. A 42 rear. I like a 9 and 38 actually.

Hi, thanks for the detailed response. Yes I had seen that kit but figured i hadn't even changed the oil yet (I was off riding for a couple of years or at least Trials which is hard when your balance and coordination take a king hit. Actually I have to ride two finger clutch, well 1 &2/3 as i lost a tip. I mean I didn't lose it, I know where it ended up, hospital incinerator. But I find the '23 lever light enough. My issue is my body vs head is not as sharp as it once was. I'd asked my dealer what oil the guys use and he did mention he had a soft ring in stock so I thought it was a good 1st step. On my Beta I did the usual take sharp edges off plates they seem to suffer and machined so top hats to reduce the preload. Transformation. I've machined baskets etc on road and race bikes usually to add another plate when power has been increased (like my 500 kitted RZ350). But diaphragm are new to me. I guess that's kit is my next step if I'm still a loose cannon when I'm fit enough to do another Trial. Thanks.

Possible, yes. Economical, probably not. Neither Vintco nor L.A. Sleeve shows anything for the TY175. https://www.vintco.com/shop/part/Cylinder-Sleeves?page=1 https://www.lasleeve.com/offroad-mx/sleeve L.A. Sleeve does say not everything they have is online, so it's worth a contacting them. It would be possible to buy a "blank" sleeve and cut the proper ports: https://www.lasleeve.com/tech/all-purpose-sleeves Those are the players I'm aware of, but there may be others. Have you tried searching in your location?

The different "support rings" available from TRS (Soft , Medium and Hard) just change the amount of pre-load on the Belville Spring. Much like your pre load rings on your rear shock. But the Belville is still the stock 1.5mm thick spring. The Soft ring will reduce the pre-load, but it is not the only answer. The thickness of your five combined clutch plates affects this as well. So if your plates have swollen (this happens with some oils and over time) then there is more pre load on the spring. Conversely if the plates are under size compared to standard there is less pre-load on the spring. So this is why combined plate stack height is so important. These diapraghm clutches are fantastic because they can be tuned to suit the riders requirements, but you need to know exactly what you are doing, and it is extremelly fine measurements you are dealing with. If you have hand problems and really want that super easy light clutch, that does come with some compromises of course as the bite, or take up point, is also softer and less precise, then you can use a thinner Bellville Spring, but some other changes need to be made as well or you get bad slip. Here is a link to a kit with the super light spring and the other parts that compensate for that to give the lightest clutch possible. But first check your 5 plate thickness and make sure that has not crept towards or over 10mm. https://www.thehellteam.com/trrs-soft-clutch-kit

Hi everyone is it possible to re sleeve the cylinder on the ty175 and if so where could I get one to go back to the original bore size many thanks Andy

Hi folks. my daughters oset 20 lite has started switching off when you open the throttle. If you switch the kill switch off then back on again the power comes back on until you try and open the throttle again. If the rear wheel is off the floor it will spin the rear wheel as soon as you put the rear wheel down it will cut out

Hi, The Notch face in towards the Drum. Must say I have only come across the notched pawls in a 6 speed box.

As title. You can supposedly get a H, M, Or S support ring.. This apparently gives a softer, well if you choose S over M which is standard. I also put GRO Rockoil 75 in. There's f all difference in the support rings. But, well maybe I can tell the difference. I've only ridden up the driveway a few times and then in circles for a few minutes. Actually it does feel easier. My GG250 did seem more progressive . After a horrendous medical event I have been left clumsy and unbalanced. My GG would have been easier to come with..Jebuz, I'm lucky to be walking. But 2 years on if can ride my trials bike. But I am bouncing off stuff. Hence the softer ring. So more updates when I actually get to ride off road properly.

Schematic indicates non regulated to the lights and horn and the regulator is on there for the fan only, the capacitor is on there to make the fan motor work better. All that runs off the lighting or accessory coil which is independent of the ignition coil.

So are lights connected to yellow ( in , unregulated) ? Or to the regulated red to the fan

With lean jetting the valves could be slowly fading with the heat. Try a compression test. Also the intake boot is prone to cracking.

An error condition triggering the mode change makes sense. Based on your suggestion of unplugging the encoder, I powered on the bike with the encoder unplugged (and removed from the side of the motor). The modes were able to cycle through normally, but without the buzz that occurs on mode change. Also, there was no movement from the motor due to tickover being on, or throttle input. I've ordered some connectors to help bench test the encoder. I wanted to see if I could catch an erratic change in the sine or cos outputs while jigging things (only using a multimeter). An oscilloscope would be better. I've been considering getting one for a while now, and this problem may prompt me to pull the trigger. Ideally I'd like to collect the signals while riding and see if the data shows a glitch when the mode changes unexpectedly.

This is a 50cc since the cylinder code is 273C. The franco morini m65-C engine has the cylinder code 273E, pinasco 74 has the code 273A, italkit 74 has the code 273D and polini has the code 305. The code is printed on the right side of the gilardoni writing on the cylinder.

Plug color is a bit uneven but doesn't look too bad. It doesn't smoke. I am running much leaner than stock jetting. When I got it in 2018, it had the factory jetting of 27.5 pilot and 120 main but ran poorly. The advice was to go richer but when I went that way it was worse so I went the other way. It kept running better the leaner it got so I ended up with 17.5 and 115 which is much leaner than all recommendations. The engine is getting up near 300 run hours so I wonder if it has slightly less vacuum and is less tolerant of lean jetting.

I just looked at the 2022 switchgear (P/N TL02R-60407-00-00) in case it was different from my 2021. The 2022 also has a single button to scroll through the maps. So transitioning directly from Blue to Green is not possible via the normal map-change firmware sequence. That makes it seem like a controller error condition triggering the change. The siliXcon controller can be configured to run "sensorless", and may be doing that as a fallback for a glitchy position encoder. In which case, it may be changing to the softest map as well. What happens if you unplug the encoder and attempt to ride the bike? Do you have access to an oscilloscope?

The spring loaded pawls in the selector mechanism have a cut-out. Should this face inward to the spring or outwards to the drum?

CV carburetor running lean, just like CV carbs were designed to do. You might try raising the needle if the problem happens at greater throttle opening. What does the spark plug look like? & does it smoke at the exhaust &/or is the engine full of carbon ?

Just stick the carb off the old engine onto it.