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Thanks, that circuit link is very helpful, there is a lot of other good information in those pages as well. Also, your https://www.electricmotiontech.com/ has been a valuable resource. The logging would indeed generate a lot of data. I could try to pare it down with triggers. I could also set up a GPIO button on one of the scope's inputs so that I could manually signal when something odd occurs. The best is to catch it happening while not riding. Great suggestion of taking off the front sprocket. Yes, I keep thinking there is a connection or wire break somewhere, but the tapping on the right side of the motor seemed to indicate the encoder. But it could be something else.

I have had a TRS80 for about a year for my son. Prior to that I had pretty much every juniors bike available, among which 3 beta 80, vertigo 50s, beta 50s, ty80, multiple osets, on top of that I have experience with beta, vertigo, EM, sherco, montesa, so while I’m not a great rider by any stretch, I have dealt with pretty much every brand in trials. initally we had some problems but were all taken care by trs which acted in conjunction with the importer in an impeccable way. TRS shipped a crate engine across the globe in 5 days so that my son could compete in the Nationals, and my son did compete and won on it. speaking from experience, problems happen with all brands but not many send an engine across the world so that a little kid can ride a race, I can name names and do multiple examples of the opposite behaviour but best to stick to TRS merits here. the new side case took a bit to be available but transformed the bike and the reliability has been excellent since and on par with the bigger bikes. not only, but we installed a bigger bore cylinder and the engine took it no problems and the reliability hasn’t changed. we live on an acreage and my son uses his bike every single day, and every single day this bloody thing starts first kick, hot or cold. compared with those bored out 50cc by beta with no linkage and concrete suspensions, this bike goes like an airplane. not to mention we installed a gold super fast throttle. today I took it for a ride and had my 3 year old standing on my feet, so probably close to 100kg weight and this bike was just chugging along in third up and down hill at trials speeds. the suspensions are perfect, we added a compression adjustor to the forks to make it a bit quicker but to be honest it wasn’t needed, the shock is absolutely standard. my son (12yo, 35kg weight) hops this thing left and right and rode this bike in T3 in local club trials. I don’t know what else to ask to this bike, it’s been a rocky start yes but turned out absolutely great. While I respect the experience of others, I feel that TRS with us worked in a professional manner and this bike satisfies all our needs. is it perfectible? Of course! A proper ktm engine or a small expansion chamber would be killer. Some components should drop the chinesium but it does what it promised. and I repeat, a beta 80 is not even close, from a geometry point of view, and from a engine power delivery point of view.

Switched the starter button to the left side because for me it makes it much easier to restart without loss of control over the throttle and clutch.

Congratulations on getting a 'scope. That's what the waveforms should look like. The siliXcon controller input circuit shows a pull-up resistor to +5VDC: https://docs.silixcon.com/docs/hw/esc/ax1/IO/#sin-cos-sensor-connection I don't think general-purpose data logging would be practical. Notice that your 'scope is sampling at 100kS/s. You could sample slower than that and still make out waveshapes, but the sample rate needs to scale proportional to rpm. Riding speed and duration will result in a massive amount of data. Even if you could store it, you would have to sort through it visually. Try heating the sensor with something like a hair dryer while testing. But honestly, I doubt that will reveal anything. I think the most likely problem is an intermittent connection somewhere. But I can't think of a failure mode that would produce your symptoms. But EM keeps changing the firmware, and all I really know is my 2021. P.S. Try running the bike on a stand and monitor the sin/cos signals at normal running (and varying) RPMs. When I do things like that at high speed, I like to strap the bike to my trailer so it can't get away! P.P.S. Another thing I have done to promote safer stationary testing is to remove the front sprocket.

It depends... 125 rearwards kick is the "old" Minarelli engine, earlier frame. 125 Professional FM237 forward kick was little brother to the 240. Engine mounts were the same but the 240 had an additional loop on the lower frame rail to protect the wider flywheel. Happily, the 156cc barrel & piston from the "old" 200 fits the forward kick motor, giving you a 200 Professional.

@konradI ended up getting an oscilloscope since the multimeter wasn't helping me. I found out that I had to connect the encoder to the controller and tap into the sin/cos/ground wires while the bike was powered up. Bench testing the controller off the bike with a power supply didn't work, apparently the sin/cos lines need some sort of termination circuit. But with the encoder hooked up in the regular way, turning the wheel by hand gives reasonable sin/cos curves. I didn't see anything odd taping on the encoder while gathering data. Attached is a screenshot of the capture. I'm going to think about setting up gathering data while riding. But any input would be appreciated.

Sadly my index finger doesn't have the power or another joint so I've had to start riding with my middle finger doing the work. Nice moccasins. My electric button is on the right. Any reason for the left?

yambits in the UK have oversize pistons

Thank you. They do sit better that way but I just wanted to confirm. They are listed on the In Motion website as Pursang only so no idea how they got to my gearbox.

Many thanks to yo both much appreciated with the information given regards Andy

Hi, If you are in the UK try contacting Westwood Liners. They have a website and are located in the West Midlands. They have a postal service and they will remove the old liner and refit a new one.

Shorty levers moved way in on the bars, slack adjusted to provide comfortable bend and range for the clutch finger, gives you the most leverage and friction range possible and your lever will never crush your grip fingers 👍 3rd gear pulls from zero to biggest thing I can ride so I ride almost exclusively in 3rd but that really depends on the terrain you ride.

Another thought... if you are out of oversizes in TY175 pistons, it may be possible to find a larger piston from a different motor. Oftentimes there is something close that can be modified to fit. But one non-negotiable is the rings. They must be for an iron bore, not Nikasil.

Thanks, I did see people suggesting that. And it might be worthwhile exploring for other reasons. But thinking I probably do most trials in 2nd, maybe 1st If it's particularly snotty, or 3rd if its an open bit. The ratios are fairly close. I dont want to change in section, unless i come up to a big obstacle. It's a compromise. Gearing down makes it possible to have an in between choice, but also means your gear has a shorter usable range. Selecting the right gear at the start is important, but my issue is the current range of operation is let's say 1cm and I want 2cm. It was quite aggressive and you had to be precise, it does seem more tolerant of my more sloppy riding technique, but driveway is not tree roots etc. Might be 3 weeks till I can test it. Thanks for ideas.

You might slow it down. It's awful fast with the stock gearing. Using a 9 tooth is the fastest choice. I prefer something in the middle. A 42 rear. I like a 9 and 38 actually.

Hi, thanks for the detailed response. Yes I had seen that kit but figured i hadn't even changed the oil yet (I was off riding for a couple of years or at least Trials which is hard when your balance and coordination take a king hit. Actually I have to ride two finger clutch, well 1 &2/3 as i lost a tip. I mean I didn't lose it, I know where it ended up, hospital incinerator. But I find the '23 lever light enough. My issue is my body vs head is not as sharp as it once was. I'd asked my dealer what oil the guys use and he did mention he had a soft ring in stock so I thought it was a good 1st step. On my Beta I did the usual take sharp edges off plates they seem to suffer and machined so top hats to reduce the preload. Transformation. I've machined baskets etc on road and race bikes usually to add another plate when power has been increased (like my 500 kitted RZ350). But diaphragm are new to me. I guess that's kit is my next step if I'm still a loose cannon when I'm fit enough to do another Trial. Thanks.

Possible, yes. Economical, probably not. Neither Vintco nor L.A. Sleeve shows anything for the TY175. https://www.vintco.com/shop/part/Cylinder-Sleeves?page=1 https://www.lasleeve.com/offroad-mx/sleeve L.A. Sleeve does say not everything they have is online, so it's worth a contacting them. It would be possible to buy a "blank" sleeve and cut the proper ports: https://www.lasleeve.com/tech/all-purpose-sleeves Those are the players I'm aware of, but there may be others. Have you tried searching in your location?

The different "support rings" available from TRS (Soft , Medium and Hard) just change the amount of pre-load on the Belville Spring. Much like your pre load rings on your rear shock. But the Belville is still the stock 1.5mm thick spring. The Soft ring will reduce the pre-load, but it is not the only answer. The thickness of your five combined clutch plates affects this as well. So if your plates have swollen (this happens with some oils and over time) then there is more pre load on the spring. Conversely if the plates are under size compared to standard there is less pre-load on the spring. So this is why combined plate stack height is so important. These diapraghm clutches are fantastic because they can be tuned to suit the riders requirements, but you need to know exactly what you are doing, and it is extremelly fine measurements you are dealing with. If you have hand problems and really want that super easy light clutch, that does come with some compromises of course as the bite, or take up point, is also softer and less precise, then you can use a thinner Bellville Spring, but some other changes need to be made as well or you get bad slip. Here is a link to a kit with the super light spring and the other parts that compensate for that to give the lightest clutch possible. But first check your 5 plate thickness and make sure that has not crept towards or over 10mm. https://www.thehellteam.com/trrs-soft-clutch-kit

Hi everyone is it possible to re sleeve the cylinder on the ty175 and if so where could I get one to go back to the original bore size many thanks Andy

Hi folks. my daughters oset 20 lite has started switching off when you open the throttle. If you switch the kill switch off then back on again the power comes back on until you try and open the throttle again. If the rear wheel is off the floor it will spin the rear wheel as soon as you put the rear wheel down it will cut out

Hi, The Notch face in towards the Drum. Must say I have only come across the notched pawls in a 6 speed box.

As title. You can supposedly get a H, M, Or S support ring.. This apparently gives a softer, well if you choose S over M which is standard. I also put GRO Rockoil 75 in. There's f all difference in the support rings. But, well maybe I can tell the difference. I've only ridden up the driveway a few times and then in circles for a few minutes. Actually it does feel easier. My GG250 did seem more progressive . After a horrendous medical event I have been left clumsy and unbalanced. My GG would have been easier to come with..Jebuz, I'm lucky to be walking. But 2 years on if can ride my trials bike. But I am bouncing off stuff. Hence the softer ring. So more updates when I actually get to ride off road properly.

Schematic indicates non regulated to the lights and horn and the regulator is on there for the fan only, the capacitor is on there to make the fan motor work better. All that runs off the lighting or accessory coil which is independent of the ignition coil.

So are lights connected to yellow ( in , unregulated) ? Or to the regulated red to the fan

With lean jetting the valves could be slowly fading with the heat. Try a compression test. Also the intake boot is prone to cracking.