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Hi, Is it possible to use 1975-1976 LH and RH crankcases from YZ125 and DT175 with the all the internals and covers of TY175?

We've had both 125cc and 200cc Shercos in the stable. The 125 is easier to kick. My wife transitioned from the 125 to the 200, but it took a toll on her knee (which was pretty beat up from running). For infrequent starts during trail riding, it may not matter. But repeated starting during competition may be a problem. I found the older Ducati Energia ignition system more reliable than the newer Leonelli. 2004/2005 was around the changeover point.

No I can't, I did check it for several times. My bike identifies as a trial, according to the VIN number but there is a lot of difference. I’m blaming the carb, it was running on lean and that caused a cold seizure. I have no data on factory settings. I like this bike, it's a bit different. I'm going to keep it in along term and that's why I'm trying to find out all potential issues.

The air at 5000 feet has only 83% of the density it does at sea level. This means the engine can only make 83% of the maximum power and torque it would at sea level (assuming it's jetted properly). It will also be proportionally easier to kickstart due to the lower air density. The number for 10,000 feet is 69 percent. You should consider that when thinking about what size engine to buy. Personally, I don't think an 80cc trials bike is a good choice for any adult-size human -- especially at higher elevations. Considering that the OP has a 2004 model bike, it's probably not in the cards to spend 3 to 4 times that for the wife's bike. A Dragonfly is not really a beginner's machine. A woman on the Facebook Dragonfly group was seeking advice after smashing her face riding one. She claimed to be a competent rider (just not at trials) but eventually gave up and sold the bike. This is a very real possibility with any bike, and you should allow your wife to progress at her own pace. If you don't mind going electric, an Oset 24.0R may be a good compromise. Honestly, the best course of action is an extended test ride on multiple bikes prior to purchase.

Dragonfly is 21Kg lighter and I can tell you that TRS electric start is high maintenance, it would work better if you kickstart her TRS bike when it is cold for her if you go that way, the electric works best on a warm engine.

I agree with feetupfun - if starting is the issue then go electric start. Another very obvious choice is the electric motion (or lemur's suggestion of dragonfly). The 300 gasser is a pain to start and she might well be able to start an easier bike like a TRS or Beta 250 My wife is 5'3" and has an EM Factor-e and loves it.

You can't find the manual here? https://www.sherco.com/en/download-documentation/manuals

Found the seals, got both the pullers and managed to take out both the flywheel and the cush drive on my test-engine (Explorer, partially seized). I'll do the same on the good engine as soon as possible.

Thank you!

A bike is what it is and then you change it to how you prefer it to be using different parts such as bars or foot rests etc and if you cannot get it to feel right no matter what you change then the only thing you can do is try another make of bike. IMO asking someone else is not helpful because everyone has different preferences.

Hello everyone. My first post on a forum. I'm pleased to find you here. I have recently purchased a Sherco 290 x-ride. The bike was 2017 m.y, stored, never used, no mileage on clock. So I got it assembled and completed. We didn't touch oils and fluids at first, just doublecheck, it was there. So, somehow we ended up with a cold seizure. It happened instantly. So, I bought a used cylinder and barrel from the UK, with decent condition, and now I'm on a second run to try to get it run. But, I'm already scared enough and don't want to do anything stupid again. I also found out there was no fluid in the hydraulic clutch. I have no specifications for: Jetting settings for keihin 28 mm carb, Data for fluids for hydraulic clutch and ext, Oil specs for gearbox, Engine tolerances to double check measurements (cylinder gap, ring gap, squish). Also a new cylinder came w/o cutouts on the barrel for small O rings and I'm going to use brass O rings on top of the head to prevent coolant leak, Don't know coolant specifications either, Going to try 50:1 mixture fuel to oil.

It's to prepare the cylinder surface for the new piston & rings plus it helps with lubrication They are given a hone before their first use with a diamond stones hone, most good mechanics have 1 in their assortment of tools .

A 125 would work well, they have enough bottom end to pull away without having to use the clutch excessively and as she progresses the 125 is more than capable when you start exploiting the power at the top of the RPM. 125’s enjoy been ridden hard, if she’s confident with throttle, clutch and brake timings a 125 is a lot of fun. I enjoy riding my lads Gas Gas 125, it’s highly manoeuvrable and a lot lighter than the Mont. It only lacks power on the really big stuff. The 200cc bikes do tend to ride more like a 250 than a 125, a little more flywheel and inertia keeps everything moving forward a little easier.

One way to judge piston ring seal without pulling much apart is to inspect the cylinder wall via the exhaust port or the plug hole, looking for dark areas (carbon). Carbon on the walls indicates piston ring blowby. Be aware that trials two strokes nowadays commonly suffer from having the rings stuck in their grooves by gum and carbon. This can happen quite quickly depending on how the bike is ridden, the type of premix oil and how well the bike is jetted.

TRS sells electric start 250 and 300 two strokes and they are very popular.

The ball and spring can be installed or removed with the engine assembled

A friend ride a Repsol, the first thing I notice when I test rode it was how short it was compared with my 2015 Sherco, when I checked the specs, I only found a 20mm difference in the wheelbase. I think that wheelbase is only one of many things that make the '' feeling '' we have on a bike Guy

I’d suggest something like the Beta EVO 80 Sr. Since your wife is petite and with little experience, the smaller frame and lighter bike would be easier for her to handle. It’s also much much much less expensive. You can always go bigger if she ends up liking it. A bigger bike could easily discourage her. The Beta EVO 80 will work great at higher elevations with the correct jetting.

Dragonfly 👍

I recently picked up an 04 GasGas TxtPro Raga 300 and am interested in finding a bike for my wife as well. She is a competent singletrack/enduro rider, intermediate I'd say. Trouble is, she's petite - 5'-2" and 120lbs. Good shape but not the strongest. She can't even kick my 300 over. I'm interested in picking up a smaller displacement bike that might be easier for her to start. We live at 5,000ft elevation and could ride as high as 10,000ft. I prefer to go gas over electric, we do a lot of extended trips deep in the mountains or desert far away from a charging source. Would a 125 have too little power, especially considering our elevation? I'm leaning towards a 200 because although she's a decent rider, I don't want her overwhelmed with all the clutching a 125 might require. The main benefit I see with the 125 is I imagine it would be easier to kick over. I'd like to keep the budget around 2k USD... in my area that buys me an older GasGas/Sherco 125 or 200 most likely. Is the Sherco kickstart system easier than the 'short throw' TxtPro kickstarter?

Well I don't know about the 1cm difference, but the gasgas feels like a much bigger bike, I have both bikes. Rake, head angle etc will effect reach. I guess my question was only aimed at people that have first hand experience with the new 23+ gasgas vs other bikes as I initially asked, no real reason to analyze dimensions too much - Like I dont know why link a long video that analyzes pictures (obviously those bikes will have different sag in whatever pics he grabbed) thats talking about a 2020 gasgas/sherco etc, when clearly I have a different generation of this bike. I appreciate trying to help but this isnt helping

Hi, The ball and the spring for the shift cam can be installed through the threaded hole when the cases are put together? or only when the cases are split? (the cases are currently split, and there actually no ball, just spring) Part number: 93505-16006 (#6 in the attached picture) thanks

Forgot to mention something very important. The amount of preload on the suspension springs affects the unladen sag. This can change some dimensions noticeably. When I use photogrammetry for such measurements, I make sure the suspension is topped out at both ends. This obviously does not represent real world conditions, but it makes for consistent measurements between bikes.

A lot of factors go into making an accurate compression test. A few things to think about: Compression must be tested with the throttle held wide open. I usually keep kicking until the gauge stop rising. This can often be a dozen kicks. The spark plug adapter you use can make a big difference if it increases the combustion chamber volume appreciably. For example, using a short-reach adapter in a long reach plug hole gives inaccurate (low) readings. If the piston crown and/or combustion chamber has a large about of carbon buildup, this will increase the reading. Smaller cylinders tend to have higher cranking pressure than larger ones. The barometric pressure (altitude) will affect the exact number. A hot motor will make more cranking pressure than a cold motor. Oily cylinders tend to make more pressure than dry ones due to a better ring seal. There are other factors too.