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Anybody that does not do observed trial event checking personally and or organize club events where you are the guy taking care of, positioning, training of the checkers etc. y'all should stay out of it! Only the Diva riders tend to be demanding, protest calls or criticize the actions or placement of the volunteer checkers. Reason being the Diva riders are not the people hosting and needing to convince checkers to voluntarily donate a free day or two of work to observe at the same section all day, just so the Diva' can have consistent checking. Resist the urge to become a Diva rider.

Better with this spring (yellow one is too hard)

What is a stop or a rollback is always open to interpretation, so it's important that an observer is consistent but he shouldn't be applying "his own set of rules". The rider needs to know what the rules are before entering the section. In the absence of full and clear rules from the ACU and AMCA, trial organisers should set out exactly how they want their trial to be marked and include that in the briefing for observers and riders. For what it's worth, most trials I do are nominally "No Stop" but in practice most observers will cut a rider a bit of slack and allow a "pause" or a "hesitation". I do like it that way but prefer it to be clearly stated so that there is consistency.

Hi everyone, I know it has been awhile. I kicked around joining the forum as I enjoyed your comments however I was already apart of another forum I have been on for many years so I did not want another paid forum If this is against site rules feel free to remove it and I apologize in advance, however if anyone would like to follow more progress I am posting updates over here https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/bultaco-m49-sherpa-t-restoration.1408917/#replies Thank you guys! Mikey

Looking at those photographs I cannot see anything . You will just have to trace your steps back until you find the problem .Best wishes Alan.

Where are you located

Did you hold the damper rod end from turning when you hit it with the impact driver or did you let the damper part spin 🤔

Has anyone had any joy getting the titanium exhaust welded ? Mine has developed a 4 inch crack on the front pipe but can’t find a welder to do titanium welding ? Any help would be appreciated

Homemade special parts for Sachs or Boge Shock.

New tubes, bushing, seals. This Marzocchi is finished !

Yup dental picks are great tools to have. I found on my brakes it was more a build up of fine silica in the seal groove.

So I just replaced the fork seals on my 2018. And of course taking the bolt out of the bottom of the damper rod is a problem. Finally got it out with pressure, impact driver, bad words. The cup at the bottom of the damper rod showed the dimple worn allowing that piece to rotate. Hmmm. So having score marks to go by I figured I’d drill new indexing holes to give the cartridge a better chance of staying in place. So this is just FYI.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

Obviously this is a VERY, very old post! But I came across it, while looking for something else. FRYS BOTTOM, near Bristol. We are about to reopen. Look for me on Facebook and message me, with your number. I have a whatsapp group and will add you. Martin Chivers

Section cut out of a spent CO2 canister is the right size, add a length of threaded rod and some nuts, big socket and you have a bearing remove plus install tool that you don't need to pound with a hammer.

I made a wheel bearing removal tool today, based on the Jitsie model, out of Jatoba wood. It has a janka hardness of 2,350 - 2,600. That is extremely hard wood. No pun intended. It dulled every one of my lathe knives to get it done. Cost me $5,50 and 1 hour of time. Jitsie’s is $60. This’ll work on 6004 2RS bearings (20 x 42 x 12) with a center spacer.

I suggest that if you fit a tubeless rear rim and it's a drum brake wheel, use the rim type that has a sealing band in the central well, rather than a flanged type tubeless rim. It will be a lot less work/cost to fit.

They haven't been available in Australia for many years.

Sounds like good advice - I definitely have some imperfections in the grooves too. And was it those ebay seals you used successfully after your attention to the corrosion etc. on the caliper? Following some encouragement from Gemini (AI) I contacted a UK Bearings and Seals supplier - they can do the exact seal for me but 4x the price of this ebay seller and minimum purchase of 100 units!

Im Just going to go with a matching cases number as I can see any modifications been done on it. Thanks for your replies

I would clean the carb again. You need to spray all the passages in the carb body to make sure they are clear. All jets and any holes in the emulsion tube. Good luck.

Hi so I just picked up a 2018 evo80 Jr for my son.. bought it off the original owner who son rode it twice and never again and it has maybe 8hrs on it .. it had sat for atleast 4 years it wouldn't idle at all when we went to look at it and pulled the carb off and cleaned it all out and it runs much better but still is struggling idling for any period of time and stalls out . Ive played with the mixture screw and had varying results and it seems to run better for abit then not .. it runs great off idle so im not sure where to go with it ...plug looks good . Fuel supply is good. Airfilter is freshly cleaned and oiled. Im wondering if maybe its a jetting issue ? We are below 1000 ft from sea level ... carburetors are not my strong suit lol Cheers