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I know how you feel , Its nicer to have the proper parts but these days so many old bikes are being renovated around the globe that there seems to be less and less genuine parts available , and if you find something the opportunists are selling at ridiculous prices. Luckily its not gearbox parts etc that you want. Hope you find the actual parts. Regards Alan.

Hi. I’m looking to start riding. Always had field bikes as a kid growing up . Loved kick start. is there anywhere near Birmingham for beginner trials riding . Before I get a bike!

Yup plug gets wet. I have tried starting fluid many times but no luck. Woodruff key is still in place, I’ve had the flywheel off to confirm that. I can see light through the pilot jet and main jet, I’ve had the carb apart and cleaned a couple times thinking a stuck float or blocked jet was the problem but no luck.

Thanks Iv got a bit of ocd and like things to be correct but it’s beginning to look like I might need to get the grinder and Dremel out as I can’t find anything anywhere and it’s wearing me out stripping and cleaning the carb all the time thanks B

Hi Again I hope you can zoom in on these photos to offer a verdict - I've got a Dremel - type grinder but my greatest fear would be over-doing it - any insight you could offer would be greatly apprexiated, thanks! Trevor.

Subject: Inquiry regarding 2022 EM ePure Race Throttle & TCS Settings Hi Konrad, First of all, thank you so much for creating such an informative website. It has been a huge help to me. I own a 2022 EM ePure Race model. I’ve been struggling a lot with rear-wheel spin when trying to start on wet, slippery uphill sections. I’ve heard that the TCS (Traction Control System) cannot be used on models equipped with a mechanical clutch. Is this true? If possible, I would really like to activate the TCS feature. If TCS isn't an option, I’m interested in modifying the initial throttle response (ramp-up/curve) to be much softer for a smoother start. Could you let me know if this is possible and how I might achieve it? Wishing you many great rides. Best regards,

Make one out of plumbing parts etc super glue silicone sealant and jubilee clips will help , Auto radiator hose etc etc , Duck tape, use reticulated foam in the right places near an airbox to fend off mud and water splashes .

Hi guys n girls I’m looking for a top intake pipe for my fabric 305 air box as it’s missing on my bike and I keep drawing in water and mud/crap into the carb which in turn is affecting the carburettor pretty bad every two three rides I’m having to clean the carb but Iv seen from pictures my bike should have a little pipe on the top of the air box can anyone help does anyone have one or can anyone tell me where I might get one thanks folks Bryan

Brilliant, big thanks. I was thinking about changing the oil but didn't know what to repalce it with for the most promising results. Also I tried all three of the built-in clutch settings but I couldn't tell the difference at all! I'll try to find the time to photograph the plates tomorrow - at least getting them out is a quick job! Thanks again for your input. Trevor.

Sadly few of us have a SINCRO to play with and it is a vastly different clutch. A few basic bits though. I'm surprised Beta went with six friction plates instead of the three used by the GasGas diaphragm clutch. One of the major advantages of the diaphragm spring is its non-linear force/deflection curve which allows more force to be applied to a clutch pack. For the things that are similar to the older coil spring clutch that may affect the speed of engagement the finish on the sides of the tabs of the friction plates in the clutch basket were a major contributor to the light-switch engagement of some Beta clutches. If you pull the fiber plates and look at the ends of the tabs that ride in the basket. If these are not smooth they can bind on the grooves in the basket and release with a snap under power causing a snatchy clutch. On the Evo/Rev3/Techno clutch smoothing these tabs made a large difference in engagement. Thicker oil will also slow down clutch engagement. If you take it apart again shoot some pics of the plates and the assembly so we can get an idea what we're looking at.

If t was me in your situation , I would be changing the oil and putting something different in to see if it altered the clutches operation. There are plenty to try out from 10w30 Mineral Transoil to ELF HTX 740 or PUTOLINE N-TECH TRANS GP , or GP10 , NILsl Clutch Trial Racing. and a few more on top. Different oils can give different clutch action. Have your clutch in bits and improve it with a bit of file work etc check everything is how it should be.. Did you thrash it while slipping the clutch in a high gear to punish it for its non compliance perhaps that may help what you describe sounds like the perfect clutch for a WTC rider it may be designed to behave that way . Good luck in your quest. Regards Alan.

Hi All, I treated myself to a new Sincro but am gutted that the last point of clutch lever travel before full engagement is a light-switch effect that makes the bike jump forward - seriously annoying where you need to stay precisely on line in a tight turn. I have tried all three built in pre-sets on the diaphram clutch, but to no avail; the lever is not heavy on the fingers but the bite is too sudden to control with clutch slip I would normally use on almost any other bike. The bike has only done three hours on the original Liquid Moly oil. My old Evo wasn't like this. Please, any ideas at all? Otherwise I'll have to sell it and go back to either TRS, GasGas or an earlier EVO! Thanks and happy riding!

thank you

Manual specifies SAE 80, or any modern light gear oil will work. 1 litre, but 900cc for an oil change as not all of the oil drains out 50:1 is ok with modern synthetic or semi-synthetic such as Castrol Power 1

tlr-evolution.co.uk email: gary@tlr-evolution.co.uk. Trial Tube have a video titled Trial Tube Best TLR's you have ever seen ! - Classic Bike Reveiw . That is if you have not seen it already of course. TY Off-Road built one of those TLR's with an alloy swing arm and it has a TLR 250 brake drum . TY Off-Road is now TLR- Evolution same people who built the bike I just mentioned .

I have flat feet and find the AplintStars Tech T to work well for me. I haven't had a set of Forma's so can't say they are better or worse but I will say if you like toe room go a size up on the Tech T's. Good luck.

ok thank you , do you also know what gearbox oil they take and what premix ratio i was told 50/1 .thanks

Are you trying to start it with the Carby choke on? Will it start once it has been started and warmed up? I would also check the plug lead is screwed in properly, if that was changed with the electronic ignition.

Does the plug get wet? If not, as it has been left for 20 years, a blocked pilot circuit in the carb is a possibility, if a pilot jet or aiway is blocked it can be vitually impossible to start a bike. Put fuel down the plug hole or spray easy start into the carb, if the bike runs but quickly dies, chances are it's a blocked pilot circuit, try having the carb ultrasonic cleaned You mentioned the ignition timing, check that the woodruff key hasn't sheared when you've been kicking it and the flywheel moved out of position

The only similarity is the bore size, the porting is completely different in either cylinder

hi will a ossa gripper 350 cylinder liner work in a ossa mar 350 cylinder .

No just changed stator plate and fitted kill switch cdi etc that comes with it..

Check that displaced wadding hasn't blocked the exhaust

Hi all! I just joined recently to see if anyone might have a potential solution to my problems with my Montesa Cota 172… hopefully I’m in the right place. The bike has been in my family since new, my older brother was the last to use it 20 odd years ago. I got it with the intent to get her running, here’s a list of what I’ve tried to do to get it going; 1.Replaced crank seals 2.Checked spark (bright blue and consistent with a brand new spark plug, verified coil is working correctly) 2.Verified timing (hasn’t changed since new) 3.Rebuilt the Amal 620 carburetor (tickler works as intended now) 4.Cylinder leakdown test passed I’ve tried various fuel mixes ranging from 32:1 to 50:1 like my Yamaha Ty250, but no luck. ALL of this and she will only sometimes give me a bang once and a while! I’m completely at a loss, I’ve used up all of my mechanical knowledge here. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!

It should start easily at 2-3mm BTDC. Did you do anything else at the same time as fitting the new ignition?