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Yeah the tubeless rim seems flatter than a tube type. I was going to use a tube. Original owner had a tube in it. Probably wouldn’t seal on the rim anymore. I have the IRC trials tires, I think they are radials and directional. Would have to drill the rim for a rim lock which I would rather not do.

An polyurethane strap for handlebar wireshttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7060446

The manual shows 15 hours as the oil/ filter change interval for a 2018 300. That sounds like an MX bike. Meanwhile, the Beta 4T manual shows 40 hours. What interval are people using?

When I ran tubeless tires on a tube type rim they were almost impossible to bead suggesting the tubeless tire rides tighter on the rim, going the other way around you will have the opposite problem; about the only way you could do it is to glue the tire on the rim and that would both seal in the air and stop the tire from moving on the rim. Is the tire radial or bias ply? Best to buy the correct tire and better to run a radial.

I’m working on a 1993 Climber that has a tubeless rear wheel. The tire I received with the bike is tube type. Can I use this tire with tube? Would probably have to use a rim lock. Or should I buy a tubeless tire and valve stem or tube? Thanks

@ cello the World is a strange place BETA probably fitted them like that at the factory , the seal will work like that and probably cause no problems but the seal for the pump should really have a seal that has the open end with the expansion spring near the lip facing toward the coolant , the pressure of the coolant goes against that area thus helping it to seal more than without any pressure. If you check out the TRS trials bike it has a seal for the oil and a seal for the coolant with a gap between the two seals that is within a casing and that casing has a hole, if the pump seal fails coolant drips into the casing and out of the hole so that you will know it has failed .On the TRS the seal for the oil has the open end facing the oil and the seal on the pump has the open end facing the coolant as they should. Regards Alan.

Thank you, so the last owner fitted the seal incorrectly - see pic

The open side of the seal faces toward the greatest pressure as the gearbox casing should be vented and have minimal internal pressure and the water cooled system operates under a greater pressure to increase the boiling point of the coolant in that closed system and so the open side of the seal faces towards the impeller/pump housing cover.

thanks for the advice both of you, I did what you said and dropped the bearings in , a sharp tap with the hammer and they seated ok with no apparent woresning of the crack. I have also applied a layer of JB Weld just to ease my mind a little and will give it a try. Can someone confirm the orientation of the waterpump seal , the one I removed had the closed side towards the water with the open side towards the oil - is this correct?

I locked up the wife's Ducati with a disc lock when we went on holiday. When we got back I couldn't get the thing to work - the lock barrel had failed and the key wouldn't open it. I tried oil and all sorts but it would not come off. A customer offered to cut it off for me which was an offer I accepted. He had a small battery disc cutter/angle grinder in his van with a cutting disc on it. The disc cutter took the lock off in about 15 seconds. It was pretty quiet and my missus in the office 20m away never heard it.

Most of the little $hit$ that steal bikes, are only equipped with simple tools, like a battery powered angle grinder, bolt cutters, and the like. If you know a smith, have him make you a steel lock bar, that you can mount in the floor, make it 30mm diameter, as that's toothick to cut with a battery powered angle grinder. Secure it with a large (M20 and up) simple countersunk hex bolt, that requires a larger hex wrench than any of those monkeys has along. If you really wanna guild the lilly, wrap the steel rods in Kevlar or similar. That will make a mess of any angle grinder. Not saying this will be 100% safe, but it will make most scum give up, and go steal somewhere else. Making the garage a pain to get into, also helps. That's fairly easy to do. In general, what seems to work, is something the monkeys are not familiar with. So anything the local smith can do, will beat the most expensive lock you can buy.

Hi, I’m looking to buy a Cub. Please let me know if anyone has one they’re looking to sell. Thanks

@ cello RE that crack , to worry or not to worry that is the question I have had motors that had the same near a bearing housing and just left them like that fitted a new bearing and nothing bad happened. If you follow konrads advice and freeze the bearing over night before heating the casing you won't risk making it worse. Unless you are going to weld it and machine it yourself or know some one who can it will get expensive and you may as well look to buy a complete gearbox and casings off ebay etc to get a lot more for your money. If the bearing outer race turns in the housing just use a liquid bearing retainer adhesive such as Loctite 641. Regards Alan.

If you weld it, the bore will have to be re-machined. That's a reasonable place for JB Weld, but after the bearing is installed. Don't press the bearing in, heat the case and cool the bearing so it is a clearance fit and drops in. I've written a bit about bearing fits and CTE which may be helpful: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/engine/gearbox/locker-shaft#h.3t5em1loxmz9 EDIT: looking at the photo again, Beta thinned the casting section where it is cracked. This would be stupid to do if not necessary. So, another part must be in close proximity. This complicates things.

Are you using a Dellorto? If so, they have replaceable starter jets. When I did not want to wait for jets to arrive for my my old TXT321, I just enlarged its original #60 starter jet hole from 0.023” to 0.028” (making it approximately a #70). Much easier to start! Figured I had nothing to lose, as I could just solder up the hole and re-drill to original size if it made things worse. The jet number is the approximate diameter in millimeters, so a #60 would be about 0.60mm in diameter. When I drill a jet, I obliterate the original markings.

Ceack radiates onto the face the bearing presses into 😩

Thanks i will look to sort thebrake next.......that is after i have fixed the next issue! I now have noticed a hair line crack in the casing onthe inside of the case where the water pump bearings sit , not sure if tryi g to press a new bearing in would cause more damage and if i should have this welded , use jb weld or just give the new bearings a go ....any advice inmates?

Just as an update, the engine is back in the frame and running rather well. It’s a bit of a devil to start when cold ( any ideas to help would be welcome) but fine when hot.

5

In todays episode of "what's he broke now?" Changed the clutch oil, Drained old out and replaced with 260mm of new but now the clutch doesnt engage at all. Thought it could need bleeding so i first filled from the bleed nipple, then as that didn't work bled all the fluid out and refilled again but still not working and i'm out of ideas? Also what a stupid place to put that bleed nipple, every video I've watched has an easy access one not a stupid angled one.... Also i need to replace the drain plug as the allen thread has rounded, can i get a generic one from anywhere (UK) and what size is it as the parts list doesnt state the size? Cheers

That tone is being produced by the motor. It's indicating an error occurred while the controller was performing its "pre-flight" diagnostics (which take about 2 seconds to complete). One example of such an error would be the throttle being open during the diagnostic tests.

I use disc-locks too..., big chain whit U-lock true arm..

It is indeed devious at best, fraud would also be a common word for it. I also just received a EVO 300 4T Factory, and guess what, no compression adjuster on the fork. Throw in that the build quality is horrible. Thread destroyed in the frame, threads not drilled the right places in the frame, threaded studs so far off on the muffler, that the heat shield can't be mounted...... That's hardly a long term strategy Beta has there. EDIT: and now that Beta found an even cheaper supplier for forks (Ollé), there's no workaround anymore, like there was on the Formula forks.

I did it!

What about a high security cable instead of chain? what you are aiming to do is slow down the scum, if they have enough time and the right tools your bike is gone. a loud alarm and baseball bat will also help.