Pre-65 Bikes

Hello there, My 3ta engined trials bike has suddenly decided not to run unless on full choke. I've stripped and checked the carb a couple of times, float and needle are OK, tank and carb. filters are clear, tank cap breather is clear, replaced jets, needle and gaskets but no joy, it splutters out as soon as I begin to open the choke. Exhaust pipes are tight, can't find any evidence of cylinder head leaks.The plugs are obviously sooty black with the choke on. The bike has a Rex Caunt ignition system. Any suggestions would be welcome, no matter how unlikely they may sound!. Regards, Bulltaco.

MY 199cc Cub is fitted with a 22mm Dellorto carb of the type supplied for the Triumph Cub so presumably correctly jetted but I think it runs a bit rich on the pilot jet, with no reference available that I can find I hope someone can suggest the preferred jet and slide combinations please?

Hi all, Having moved to the country and wanting to get back on 2 wheels, I've bought a BSA C15 and#39;trial' project see pic 1. it's not complete and in buying a job lot of parts I now also have a spare frame see pic 2. It's a 1960 c15 frame but has been modded to take what i think is a bantam tank pics 3 & 4 Has anyone seen a frame like this/ know anything about it?

Can anyone advise me Sprocket size for bsa c15 trials . Thanks

Finally got my Butler running but only with the choke slides fully closed on the air filter? Ticks over and runs lovely,pilot jet at 2 turns out and it takes throttle so why is this. No obvious air draws, any ideas welcome. I've been told to try an Enfield amal but would like to get it running as original. Cheers, peter

Morning Apart from Dave Dawson Does anyone use the Maxton rear shocks Thoughts on them? Marty

As many of you know i an still persevering with the sows ear project. Mainly because i have no choice and no money now What i want to know is we are now in the 21st century so why is it that when i buy an item sometimes costing hundreds of pounds manufactured from billet on a CNC machine that cost more than my house NOTHING EVER FITS !!!!!! why do i always have to work on the item to make bearings fit or to make it fit the other parts supplied sometimes from the same supplier ????? Everything i have bought lately NOTHING fits ! i have to spend ages with wet and dry or machining the component on my lathe etc Surely it's not too much to expect when paying so …

I'm trying to source a T100 pre unit engine for a mate, if anyone has or knows of one for sale can you please give me a shout? If you PM with your number I call you back. Cheers

Hi Guys Finally i got OSSA Mar forks for my BSA C15 project. I have couple of questions, > There is oil leak from screw on fork leg. I tried to tighten it , but its thread is gone , how to fix it ? > What is easiest way to hook OSSA forks to C15 ? . Should I use C15 ball bearing race to OSSA yokes. or should i use C15 yokes ? and OSSA forks legs . I prefer to use OSSA yokes if possible , they seem more suitable to me. I am attaching pictures .. please advise. Thanks in advance Cheers Talha

Happy Bank Holiday to all readers. I am in a good mood today, even after yesterday's trial, but please do not start me on that. Looking for a set of rear shocks for the BSA and I remember hearing that Mr Pickering supplies some modded Betors, does anyone have any information on them what makes the mod work and where I can get a pair?

Just come in out of the garage after wrestling with the rob Homer frame i bought thinking i would save myself a bit of money. OK its CDS not T45 like those Alan Whitton ones but with my level of inexpertise it wont make much difference. Well after spending hours and hours over the last week or two trying to get things to fit i am beginning to wonder if the saving was really worth it. I have had a DRR frame supplied through Alan before and everything just fitted together as it should. No re drilling, no reaming out, no filing etc etc. Plus the welding / brazing is to die for and it seems a shame to paint over it. Is it just me ? Do i just happen to have a Friday frame ? OK…

As an ongoing trials project I have been riding and working on a and '54 G3LS. I've recently converted to an all alloy engine, and as the next step I'm looking to make a few changes to the road based frame. As I am sure you will understand, I'm looking to steepen the angle of the steering head, and to swap the standard heavyweight swinging arm for the later lightweight version. I believe there used to be instructions for the swinging arm confersion posted on the AMOC site , but havn't been able to find them. Can anyone provide details of the best way to swap the swinging arms? Is it a case of changing the pin in the swinging arm, or do I need to alter the wid…

Good morning folks, I spent a few days in Scotland at the beginning of the month watching the Pre 65 event and it's re-ignited my enthusiasm to get my 1960 C15 sorted and I'd be grateful of any advice. The rear frame loop where it attaches to the frame in front of the seat is welded which looking at the parts manual isn't standard as they appear to be normally bolted through a bracket between the tank and seat. I'm hoping that one day my entry for the Scottish pre 65 will make the ballot, would the frame as it stands make it through machine examination? I've fitted the smaller front primary drive gear and it has a 13 tooth front sprocket, the rear sprocket is 62 teeth …

Guys i am after a modern Rigid frame for a villiers 8e Is there anyone making such a frame or is it just me thats mad!! Cheers

Hi all, I did the Sam Cooper road trial yesterday and towards the end of the trial the engine was sounding terrible, but after letting it cool down for a while it got better and then the noise would return as soon as it warmed up. From cold the engine runs fantastic, no noises at all, it only makes the noise when it's hot. I think it must be related to heat and wondered if there any specific things to look out for. To be honest I had a similar issue with an alloy barrel on a BSA where the liner would move when the engine got hot. I had to get a space made so the head pressed against the line preventing it from banging into the head. The top hat stopped the lin…

Hi, I'm really keen on getting a Rigid (I like a challenge!) and while top choice would be something like a nice big Matchless, funds just aren't going to stretch that far at the moment. I've been looking at little Bantam's and the most available option at the right price is by far a plunger framed version. Are plunger frames going to be any use or will I be fighting a losing battle? I will be buying it as a bit of a project but will be trying to keep it reasonably standard so would rather not start replacing the rear loops to get rid of the plungers. Any opinions would be appreciated! Thanks!

Hi Gurus I have BSA C15 pitted forks. My friend told me to check with Industrial Hydraulic Repair company to re-chrome them . I contacted them and they said they can make new fork tube. which might be much cheaper then re-chrome. and last longer. Is it good idea to try new fork tube ? Is it possible to increase length of fork tube , Do i need to change spring or fork internal etc. I was think may be i can put some spacer on top nut and keep forks internal same ? Regards JH

Firstly who does this conversion? Secondly what's involved. i read here that the stanchions are machined down. Why if it's 35mm into 35mm? What's the bit about bondong/gluing them. I have basic engineering skills, so wondering why I can't do this myself? Thanks

As some of you know i have finally succumbed and gone over to the dark side and am in the process of building a Bantam. So a few questions as i am a bit confused. 1. Have any of you used the new conrod assemblies, obviously Chinese, from Rex Caunt ? If so what are your experiences ? 2. The popular, and cheap which i like, mod is to swap 2nd and 3rd gear over. Do you find this adequate or do you wish you had spent the extra and fitted a low 2nd gear ? 3. Again the popular mod is to fit the Suzuki 185 piston but i notice that Rex Caunt sells a piston with a correct size gudgeon pin for the Bantam small end so you dont need to make a bush to fit. Has anybody …

... but nevertheless some fantastic pictures of old iron :-) http://www.nickveasey.com/current-project/4586810913