Pre-65 Bikes

Hi, can anyone advise me on how to make adjustments to my Clutch, at present if i select 1st and depress kickstart she moves forward,but if the motor's running nothing happens when gear is selected. Also the chain came off a couple of times yesterday even though it appeared to be aligned ok, any suggestions please. As you can guess i'm new to all this british stuff after 7 years on a TLR!!!!Didn't even have an imperial allen key!

Hi, I know this is a common problem and I have to get it past tdc before trying to kick start. I have a standard crank shaft duplex gear (19t?), low compression piston, 'R' Cam, strong clutch springs, ally billet pressure plate, primary chain tensioner and fill the case with about 100cc of ATF to keep the primary chain wet. I also have the Alan Whitton Modified (longer) Clutch Operating Arm Assy. The clutch slip when kick starting seems to be getting worse. This may be because the rings have bedded in and raised the compression. Should I just tighten the 3 clutch spring adjusters by a turn each and see what happens? Any advice appreciated. Bruce.

Having seen the results from the wife's rock tumbler I thought I would try something similar to decoke the head and piston of the Cub. I took a standard 8 shot Eley clay cartridge and emptied the contents through the plughole, refitted the plug and started her up. As expected there were a couple of muffled explosions and then it ran fine and sounded like the rock tumbler. I set the idle up a bit and went off for a coffee. When I came back it had stopped. The head and piston are spotlessly clean although both have a "dimpled" finish a bit like a golf ball. Having put it all back together it still won't go, could it be the timing? Tony

I have acquired a new 'R' Cam and gear from an early Distributor Cub and want to fit it to my later Side Points Engine. I am running electronic ignition so points etc are not an issue. I am getting an earlier type outer cam bush (blind type) to match the 1/16" smaller diameter outer end of the earlier cam shaft. The gear and inner shaft fit into my engine without issue and the overall length looks the same (including the slotted distributor drive of the cam shaft) I will drill into the blind bush from the inside of the gearbox case to supply oil to the outer camshaft bearing. Is there anything else I need to do? It looks as simple as that! …

After fitting new clutch, To my Tiger Cub, metal driven plates, friction plates & removing Serco alloy cover plate and reverting back to the original metal one. The clutch was really good dry with the primary cover of just trying it around the garden. Can I run the clutch dry as soon as I put oil in (100ml transmission fluid) it goes back to slipping on kick over etc? or just a drop of oil to lubricate the primary chain. The new clutch is a lot thicker overall and the 1/4 BSF adjusting grub screw is just hanging on the last few threads, so I loctited it until I stripped down again washed it all in petrol, now no slip until I can get a longer grub screw or convert it …

I have a top mount distributor T20 motor 1955. Are the differences with the side points type motor before I start machining on my motor for PVL etc. Is there any benefit to the later side points motor. Would be interested to hear your comments on this.

Hi all, long story short, I’ve recently bought a tiger cub and I’m fixing a few minor issues on it. One of the issues is an oil leak from one of the rocker covers. I’ve looked into it and it seems like the engine is very early 1954, but am I right in thinking I have a square barrel and therefor a square barrel head? I will probably buy a full gasket set for the bike to fix the rocker cover oil leak. However if I buy a full gasket set based on a 1954 engine, will the gaskets be correct for the barrel and head? Thanks

Toying with building a Bantam Cub. Tiger cub engine in a Bantam frame. I have been offered a Cub engine, it's an early distributor engine, needs a rebuild. What advantage has the later engine got over the early type?? Can they be built to be as good ?? I realise some varying specs are available, I don't want to go over the top. Thanks in advance.

Are the engine internals the same on distributor and side points Cub engines? crank, gearbox etc. Thanks in advance.

I have a cub engine with T20 97513, Any ideas what the year of manufacture was?

Hi, I'm rebuilding my Cub engine and notice that the Cam Followers have 2 small blind holes in each Follower presumably for lubrication. Do these face the back or the front of the engine, or doesn't it matter? My Haynes Manual doesn't mention rotation. I'm currently thinking towards the back to trap oil in them. I'm also fitting a blind outer Camshaft Bush. I presume I can now take the blanking screw out of the end of my side points Camshaft. The timed breather will also be redundant and I will drill a small hole from the oil return chamber into the blind bush to lube the camshaft. Any advice appreciated. Bruce.

Does anyone know the thread types/sizes on the Cub engine? I'm particularly interested in the fasteners that attach the gearbox casing to the crankcase. On my engine I've dispensed with the outer cover, meaning I've got 10 2BA screws of various lengths, plus two larger diameter screws at either end of the casing. These are the two I need sizes for. Many thanks.

Did the usual google searches - nothing. So, has anybody put an ali barreled cub engine on the scales?

Hi. , I have a trials cub , standard front frame. Armac rear subframe and swinging arm. Armac exhaust is unavailable so will a Drayton one fit? I don't mind some minor modifications

can anyone please advise on the configuration of the felt seal and retainer on a cub, or provide a diagram,is it oil seal,felt seal,retainer then bearing,or as my manual suggests just two oil seals?

Just about to fit an aftermarket set of footpegs and plates (sammy miller) but i have to squeeze a chain tensioner in there somewhere! Can anyone give me a few tips on how best to complete this task and even a few photo's etc. regards To all .

Hi. I've modified my Cub forks to have cartridges but now need new fork springs. Could anyone advise what sort of rate I might ask for when speaking to the various suppliers, who I guess include Hagon, YSS, etc? On the rear I'm thinking a set of Betor Alloy jobs for £150-ish. Any thoughts on these? Or NJB Have a good day

my project currently has some 36mm jap forks in that are not really suitable for trials, I am planning to change to bultaco 35mm leading axle forks as I have access to some, my question is what type of yokes? cubs are non parallel with 1.5 degrees in the yokes as standard, but given that I am changing to leading axle forks should I be looking of parallel yokes to compensate for this change or would non parallel ones work without causing issues to trail/rake?

I can't seem to access the Triumph Tiger cub forum, looks like Steve who runs it has thrown a wobbly. I have registered again by sending him an email. But still can't accesss just wondered if anyone here uses the forum? http://www.cubsite.com/Cubs.htm

Can anyone suggest a reason why it would be a bad idea to chop the down tube on a cub frame and replace with a thick sumpgaurd (as in how the upb and armac design frames are configured). Obviously id have to keep the frame straight while attempting this operation. I would hopefully have a 5mm pre formed alloy bash plate made and replace bottom of downtube with this,can anyone suggest any downfallls pitfalls to this operation.