tltel

Hi I think some of the later bikes have additional seals, they will not fit your bike. TLTEL

If you keep the front wheel in the air, less chance of getting a puncture! TLTEL

put the forks back on the bike to undo top caps, then remove from bike. Don't over tighten clamp bolts, the clamps do snap. not sure on your actual forks but the bottom bolt can be undone with an air gun or battery impact gun, (assuming the internal is spinning) make sure you clean out the head of the allen bolts so that tool fits all the way in. TLTEL

Gas Gas UK TLTEL

It's because someone put the chain on the wrong side... TLTEL

I may have got this wrong (won't be the first time) but I thought the guy that started the Scorpa company and then later sold it to concentrate on the Sherco company. Then bought scopa back again when it was struggling,. to save the brand name from going bust. I personally like the new scorpa more than the Sherco, Although I haven't ridden either. TLTEL

pop it in to your local garage or bike shop and get them to use an air gun on it. TLTEL

As above, the stop is not welded on my bike, at least I don't think it is. I am sure I did the clutch on mine with the engine in place. TLTEL

It does sound like the fluid is not returning to the reservoir, take the rubber boot off behind the lever and make sure the plunger is moving freely. There is a spring in there and they do wear out. TLTEL

Check the earth wire under the tank just in front of the seat, I think its green, clean the connection and make sure its tight. I had exactly that problem, ran fine till you revved it, then it would pop and bang. TLTEL

that does look nice, wonder if that's a modified TLR tank / seat, would be interesting to know. Just wondered Maxbikes, how the gearing on the CG engine works for trials, I have an engine that I intend to rebuild one day as my TL has the cam shaft rattle but wasn't sure if the gearing would be too far spaced. TLTEL

Yes , agree lovely bike..... BUT I hate loose cables, especially throttle. TLTEL

It really bugs me when I hear statements like, the " ORIGINAL KILL SWITCH IS VERY POOR" The most important safety feature on the bike and Beta can't be bothered to fit one that functions properly. You don't really get much for your money when you buy a trials bike compared to a road bike the manufacturers could do better. (not just Beta) TLTEL

It could be your lucky day then, just release adjuster until you have a little free movement on the lever and give it a go. If you have no slack then you are effectively riding with the clutch partially disengaged. If you have an adjuster at both ends, adjust the bottom one first then use the one on the lever to fine tune it if needed. TLTEL

No the fluid will be petrol / air, it will eventually affect the engine performance. basically an air leak. If it is actually leaking you need to fix it. If you do it yourself don't separate the head from the barrel, it will save on seals. You need to get the correct thickness gasket too. not sure if they are colour coded. TLTEL

It's something you learn from experience, better to be loose than strip the thread out of the head, don't use a long tommy bar when you tighten it, and use your wrist rather than your arm. Same goes for most of the small engine bolts and fork clamps etc, I have a small Allen key spider tool and I find it great for the bike, it fits in my hand and a twist of the wrist is all that's needed to tweak most service bolts up without over doing it. TLTEL

Hi I thought the same actually, that's just the sort of dirt that bungs up your jets and spoils your day, I'm not going to say wash your bike better as I don't do it very well either, BUT if you are going to work on the bike make sure that area is clean at least. Second picture, thermostat or thermoswitch, it doesn't work like a car thermostat as it only switches the fan on and off, it does not control the water flow. There is not a cover for it, well not on the Gas Gas anyway. TLTEL

Hi,copemech. Eyes next you say ?? TLTEL

youre a brave man, owning up to that!!!! The choke is a plastic lever, usually just behind and below the fuel tap, left side of bike.(I am comparing to gas gas) Lift lever for on, it should point straight up, flip it down when it starts. If Its really cold you might want to leave it on for a bit or hold it half way till engine sounds happy. Hopefully you will get it running, but would still advise the clean out if it has been standing. Fuel oil mix does some strange things as it evaporates. TLTEL

assuming that you have stripped the carb to clean it, after first cleaning the outside body of the carb. You removed the jets including the choke jet. Cleaned them. Have you then set the fuel mixture screw to give a nice clean throttle response? Before setting the tick over screw to where you want it. (best done in gear with clutch in) Make sure Air filter is cleaned and oiled too. TLTEL

Hi If your bike has stood for a while, you need to clean out the carb and air filter, flush out the tank, put in new premix petrol and I would fit a new plug too. The bike should start easily with two or three kicks, from cold with choke on and hot, no choke. Do this and watch the video link above and you should have no problem. Don't make it hard for yourself by just kicking it hoping it will start. Once sorted use the bike to gain some fitness and most important have FUN !! Been there done it, and it's worth it mate. TLTEL

I don't think you are going to get that rear mudguard to look right, if you want that more modern look maybe you should look at an early mono type. TLTEL

can you turn the shafts freely? With chain removed. If something is bent you should see it when you rotate it, could even be crank pin slipped. Take plug out and spin crankshaft too. TLTEL

The big knurled screw is a throttle slider adjuster, it just alters the tick over speed by raising or lowering the slider. it does not alter the mixture. TLTEL

Hi. I would say you need to completely strip gears out and check for worn bearings or a bent shaft. just curious, why do you run it with the timing retarded. TLTEL