stpauls

Have you asked on the Beamish owner's club website? Jim Evans is the person who will know. http://www.beamishownersclub.com/

I can clearly understand why the Super Cub might not be allowed to be included in the results for a Classic Trial. In my opinion, the two obvious reasons are that the engine is of a modern design and brand new. Also, the frame is of a modern design and brand new. However, a few weeks ago I was admiring a very nice "Bantam" trials bike, but the more I looked, the less BSA engineering I could see. It appeared to be built mainly from one-off or custom catalogue bits and was far from standard. Last Sunday I was inspecting a "Greeves", which appeared to have lots of modern bits on it, indeed the engine looked pretty new and I suspect that it was. Again, I was wondering how much of this bike was original. Trick, customised "Triumph" Tiger Cubs are also very common. Therefore, if the above bikes and the many other similar custom bikes that regularly compete, are eligible for inclusion in twin-shock classes, then the Cotswold Cubs should also be allowed. Failing that, the scrutinisers should be much firmer about what is and is not allowable, to compete in a particular class. On a different note, I was talking to two riders who had Cotswold Cubs. Apparently they are very light-weight (I think they said 120 pounds) easy to handle, relatively cheap and competitive (in the right hands obviously). I have not ridden one, but for me the very light weight and easy handling make this bike a very interesting possibility.

The "Latest Events" search on the ACU website for trials does not seem to be working. There is a message saying "There are currently no future events ..." Anyone know why? Thanks

A well organised, fun and friendly trial. Challenging, but nothing thing silly or dangerous. Muddy and the rain added to the fun! A good and enjoyable day out. Thanks

Around 2010 there were many reports of IRC rear tubeless tyres, when inflated to 3-4 pounds, going flat as soon as the bike hit a small step or a root. Many people put this down to the tyre bead being too loose, so the tyre would loose the airtight seal when it hit an obstacle. I understand that this problem still existed a few years later. Have IRC fixed this problem yet?

Here is a way of putting a number board on an Evo, while retaining the headlight. If you use a transparent number board then you can still use the light. You don't need to alter the brake or clutch cables, or anything else. You will need: A number board. Some long cable ties. 4 30mm lengths of soft plastic tubing - 10mm - 20mm bore. drill + 5mm bit. (You may need to join short cable ties together to make long ones). Look at the pictures to see how I did it. I have used this for the last year, with a trial every week and I have not had any issues with it at all. Also, I have a drinks bottle carrier attached with cable ties, It is sitting on a piece of inner-tube rubber to protect the forks from scratching. Nearly a year, used weekly with no issues. PS: Don't use a plastic bottle holder, because it will break when you go over logs.

Hi I am using a new HP Pavilion laptop, Windows 8, Internet Explorer. I have tried "Attach this file" and also tried "Advanced uploader" option, with no success.

I have been trying to post some photos, in reply to a topic. I have followed the pinned instructions but all that happens is that the Trials Central page stops responding. Are there any Janet and John (dead simple) instructions available?

While waiting in queues at sections, I am regularly getting exhaust fumes blown into my face, in pulses. Why do the manufacturers not direct the exhaust tip downwards, towards the ground? It would probably help keep the noise down too. Hydrocarbons are linked to lung cancer, so it would make sense.

I assume that you are joking - aren't you? However, this does create problems in several ways. For instance the chaps who set out the Novice/Yellow route can get a totally false impression of what is a realistic course for a true Novice - a person who has just started, or who has limited experience, or who only rides their bike once a month, rather than the rider who has moved down from Expert or Clubman class and is now riding the Novice sections, This is quite a regular occurrence in my experience (of over 60 trials). Novice sections being set out too hard or even dangerous will and does result in beginners giving up trials. I spoke to a new Novice a few weeks ago who had lost heart and was giving up competitions because the majority of sections were too hard for the second week running. In these litigious times, a dangerous Novice section that resulted in serious injury or God forbid, the death of a competitor could leave the club or even the organisers personally liable - despite the disclaimer being signed by the competitor.

Hello Does anyone know what time the trial at Breakheart Quarry, Dursley, Glos starts on 11/1/15? Thanks

Hi The number of ACU Trials riders would give some indication for the UK. You would have to add on a percentage for non-ACU riders. Others would perhaps be more qualified to estimate that percentage. Perhaps other countries have an association similar to the ACU too?

Thanks for the info. Thanks to Delboy's Garage too. Thanks to everyone.

Yes, it would be the wiper, rather than the actual seal. Thanks. It also has a "spring" collar, which goes around it, to keep it snug against the fork tube. Do I still follow the advice given above about using a cardboard (or a plastic) tube, to push it back down in? Thanks

Hi The left hand fork seal popped out of my Evo today. I had a quick go at putting it back in, but no success. Is there an easy method? It is an SKF (green) seal. Thanks in anticipation.

I started trials a year ago and have now ridden in over 50 trials, usually riding the Novice/Yellow route, which is usually the easiest/beginners route. This is what I have discovered: Different clubs have vastly different ideas about what constitutes a Novice/Yellow route (or section). In my experience 25% of meetings have a majority of sections that are too hard - or even dangerous for a Novice rider. My point is this - you will probably find that you are able to complete the majority, or even all of the sections in the trial that you enter. However, if you discover that the sections have been made too difficult (probably set out by Expert, or past Expert riders, who have forgotten what is a realistically challenging section for a Novice rider to attempt) don't be put off, just try another meeting, with another club the following week. This is what I did - and still do. Avoid meetings who are advertised as "Cup", "Championship" or "Championship Round". However, if the meeting is promoted as "classic" or "twinshock" then they are likely to have well differentiated sections and have genuine Novice routes. So, go along and just have fun and enjoy the experience. Too hard? Try another club the following week. PS. You will probably need an ACU card to enter.

My Evo 250 jumped out of 1st yesterday. Luckily it was just before the section started. This was not the first time.

Wish I had gone to the Breakheart Quarry trial, rather than to the Bath and West of England Trial at Durham Woods, near Bath, that was on the same day. The Novice sections at Durham Woods were far too difficult and poorly thought out for novices. £20 down the drain. Give them a miss next time.

Hi Anyone know what time the meeting starts? Thanks

Does anyone know who stocks or can obtain these shim washers? Part numbers? Thanks

Hi, these will fit from Raceline on eBay Raceline Cast AJP Brake / Clutch Levers (GasGas, Beta, Scorpa, Montesa). Short levers. To stop your levers snapping off, you need to adjust them so that when you pull in your front brake or clutch levers, the ball on the end of the lever is about 1.5 inches from the end of the handlebars. Another way of explaining it is to adjust the position of the brake and clutch levers on the handlebars, so that when you extend your index fingers, they grab the end of the lever, just behind the ball on the end of the lever. Or, adjust the position to allow for two fingers to grip the levers, rather than having room for all four fingers on the lever. So, you are moving the levers in towards the steering head

Hi Last Christmas (2013) I bought a pair of Wulf boots (about £110 EBay). The stiff, thick leather uppers give lots of protection, but not a great deal of feel. Also they were a bit uncomfortable, due to the middle strap holder digging in to my ankle. So, 3 months later, in March/April of this year I bought a pair of Gaerne Oiled boots from Bikesport at Chewton Mendip (£240 ish). Very comfortable, but not a lot of protection for your foot. When the (thinnish) leather gets wet, it becomes very soft - like a trainer, and foot protection disappears. I have hurt the side of my foot twice, bashing rocks or stumps. I also hurt the arch of my foot when the bike kicked back and my foot was not completely on the kickstart. So, if I think it will be wet or rocky then I wear the Wulf boots, with a foam pad to stop the strap holder from digging in. Gaerne Oiled? I would not bother again. PS. The foam pad that I use, to stop the strap holder from digging in to my ankle, would ride up when I walked about. I stuck some Velcro on to the foam and now it stays in place, without moving.

I have had the same problem with melted black nylon or whatever my trials pants are made from, on the exhaust pipe of my Evo. I used a rotary wire brush in my electric drill. It removes all traces of the melted fabric. I tried to buy an exhaust guard, but apparently no one makes one.

I need to renew my insurance for my road registered Beta Evo 250 2T. I was with Bennetts for my Beta Techno 250 but apparently they cannot get me insurance for my Evo. Who do you use? Any recommendations? Thanks in anticipation.

Hello all The kickstart retaining bolt on my Evo 250 keeps vibrating loose. The kickstart actually fell off at one trial, but luckily someone found it for me. This is the retaining bolt that screws into the end of the kickstart shaft. I have tried Blue Locktite and also a star washer. Any ideas? Thanks