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Hey, there are plastic darts that Yamaha uses on ATV fenders and snowmobile windshields are mounted with plastic 5mm screws, I could come up with some part numbers if you are interested
Just a thought
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Could try putting the carb on backwards, but then it would overflow on up hills
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I think my 010 runs almost continuously, it may shut off on a fast road but I haven't checked
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That was on older models, this is from Beta website
Light/Map Switch: mounted on the side to avoid damage, it also houses the switch for the dual mapping settings.
Kill Button: positioned on the handlebar for practicality and ease of use.
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Mine never came with extra adapters, I made a little jig with a screw and a nut, put it in my drill press and hit it with a file
Think it only needed a half mill removed
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Well....been through a lot of snowmobile setup for those kind of altitudes, it is all about barometric pressure on the surface of the fuel and loss of signal strength at lower engine speeds
Main drops about 3 sizes
Pilot may or may not change, reduced atmo pressure means less fuel flows through the pilot so it corrects itself to a certain extent, it may drop a size or it may even run lean and need to be up sized
Needle will probably drop one clip
But you need to be careful at low alt's after you make adjustments, particularly at partial throttle you can squeak it on the needle
Opening the air box up helps a lot at altitude but you can't really do that on a Rev
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I can't even come close to doing this but it looks to me like because he is on a hill he is just clutching it
Be cool to do that just one time while a camera is around
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There's another thread on this subject and the man himself Jason Finn explained it
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So I guess you didn't get an owners manual then huh LOL
Headlight switch and map switch me thinks
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Pindie you da man!
Doesn't that make your fender drag on the ground though?
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Hey, mine is a 96
Two wires to the thermal switch on the head, both wires are green
I would assume this switches 12v and not ground
The fan has black and black with blue tracer
Would assume that black with blue is 12v and black is to ground
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Metal transfer is very obvious and I cannot see any on your skirt
I think your top end is fine
Engine failure does not explain your no start problem, maybe that keyway that Copemech mentioned
You may be able to see the keyway on both the crank and flywheel after you remove the nut
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I will try and look at mine after work tonight, you probably only need one wire to the fan and then to the sender but there would need to be a ground on the sender to complete the circle
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Well, til we get fuel injection there is only one way to control fuel level in the float bowl
If the float is in a position where it can't close the needle then overflow controls the fuel height
I think it's possible to stop overflow but then the fuel level would become high and over fuel the motor
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Oh and shorten the coolant overflow hose to about 150mm and zip tie it in a spot where you can see it blow if you overheat
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The angle the carb is at makes it over fuel on a decent
I had an 07, the 08 had a KeiHin carb so I don't know if they were better or worse
Maybe you are overflowing on downhills, the fact that you run rich on on downhills suggests that
Next time stop on a slope and see if you are losing fuel from the overflow tubes
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Oooof, thought it sounded weird
I doubt they just tried to rob you, my guess is they just don't know how to diagnose
Definitely complain bitterly and try to reverse the bill as much as possible
Don't just let them go, it will teach them a lot when they put your old stator and rectifier back on the bike and write you a check
Now about the hanging up issue you have, is it possible the flywheel key was sheared or something in the process?
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Ahh yes, I forgot, Shoei and Arai fit me very well and so does this Airoh, but ya, I had to use XL instead of L
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I enjoyed this vid, thought I would share
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I smell something fishy
No fan, Got it
Replace stator and rectifier?, very very unlikely that both failed at the same time, I don't get it
Did your headlight work?
As a general rule, a tech who replaces everything without a very clear explanation is questionable
Example: "the stator made no power so i replaced it and guess what, turns out the rectifier was frapped too"
is it possible he is incapable of diagnosing and just throws parts on.?
Still no fan, = neither the stator nor the rectifier were the cause, maybe you have a wiring problem and you got to buy the entire electrical system instead, ouch
Certainly you deserve a very clear explanation, the tech should have a "Wow your bike was a nightmare" kind of story
Did he give you your old parts back? He should have, test them and see what's up
Good luck, ask questions
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I love carbon fiber, would love to have to tank sides done in CF
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Another thing that helps me is to have someone video you riding different obstacles
I find that what I think I'm doing and what I am actually doing are somewhat different and I can compare my body position to others
And ask better riders to coach you, the beauty of trials is people gather at a section and watch each other, make use of it
But most of all, practice about 20 minutes at a time and practice one or two things, no one can learn it all
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I put them on my beta bars but I had to put them in my drill and lathe em down about a Mil or so
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Been a long time since I owned a Bieffe but it fits more egg or square than some helmets
Round like old Bell did not work for me not did my Wolf helmet fit my head, so it's not like them
I'm pretty happy with my Airoh
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Yup I'm right there with you, riding the rear brake is a street bike habit as it settles the bike down, I'm constantly working on getting away from the rear brake, my coach gives me a hard time all too often
A guy at a trial told me to say "ballerina ballerina ballerina" in a section to remind me to keep my feet and knees wide LOL
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