jer

try this site http://www.sammymillerproducts.co.uk/mudgu...ber_plates.html Can somebody tell me how to paste a link on so that it can just be clicked on to go to that site?

Did you take off the shock and grease the bottom bearing on it? Not just where the bolt goes through the hole, but the actual bearing inside it. I had the same noise on my sherco and thats what it was.

fanticmotor.free.fr/.../Modeles-trials.html Lots of Fantic pictures through the years on this site. I think you should have a disc on the front.

just re read your post and realised you're talking about a monoshock, mines was a twinshock with a plastic tank. I assume yours is a 201 which was the next model. Also assume the engines were basically the same bore sizes.

http://www.fantictrials.co.uk/ This website lists 62mm dia pistons as being for a 156cc engine, called a Fantic 200. I used to have one, it had a chrome bore, i think, with a single L shaped ring at the top of the piston. The engine was made by moto minerelli, it had to be in neutral to start it, is that a primary kickstart or secondary kickstart? Not sure if fantic made their own engines as well but i'm sure someone will know. A rough date can be found moulded into the underside of the petrol tank, ie when the tank was made, assuming it's original.

I think you need a spring, ball bearing and grub screw as well. I ordered a new lever from trials and tribulations last night, it's not on their site today though? Maybe i ordered the last one? It said something along the lines of all other parts available to order, I took that to mean the spring etc. I kept my old lever so didn't look into it further. A sherco grub screw costs

I read this post last night then snapped my kickstart today. It's an 08 sherco 125. Looking at where it snapped there's a discoloured bit, like it cracked previously but not snapped right through. I'm blaming reading the post last night for it snapping.

I put a titanium front pipe with insert on my 08 sherco 125, made a huge difference, much more bottom end.

Did you clean the exhaust out when you rebuilt it, if not it could have years of oil built up in it. Run a gas torch through it to burn it out, this could take about 20mins. Mix your oil/petrol at about 75:1, if you mix it at 50:1 or 25:1 you certainly will have oil coming out of your exhaust, you don't need that much oil. If you rebuilt the engine you could have damaged the crank seal on the clutch side, gearbox oil will be sucked into the bottom of the crank and be pushed out your exhaust.

For gasgas technical info the usa site, gasgas.com is really good. Go to archive and tech.

You can buy aluminium spacers to put behind your towbar from caravan type places, they're about 3/4'' thick, you'll need longer bolts too. 3/4'' doesn't sound much but it did make a difference. I also put an old rear tyre from my bike between the bike and spare car wheel.

I had a tlr 200 in the late 80's, i took the decompressor off as i thought it added complexity to the bike, the kick start broke shortly afterwards.

I've fixed an old, twin shock ty similar to the above method. Drill a hole on the opposite side to the dent, put a metal bar through this hole and gently tap out the dent. Maybe put a sandbag or similar under the dent. Cut a patch and braze it over the hole. It didn't look too bad when finished, a lot cheaper than a new exhaust.

I used to have a 99 montesa which did the same. I was told to change the plates for later ones which had more oil grooves. Worked perfectly after that. I can't remember what year i changed them for though. Phone Sandifords, they'll know.

Sammy Millar Products have a Yamaha flywheel puller on their website for

I put an s3 pipe, with the insert, onto my 08 sherco 125. I made a huge difference to bottom end power. Presumably it would do the same to the gas gas. On sections with tight turns then a climb i can now use a higher gear without the same fear of stalling, or having to change gear mid section.

Does anyone know about the Greeves or the side valve Gas Gas?

I used to have a ty125 about 25 years ago, they were sold for a while as a kind of trail bike with a battery, lights etc. The 4 position ignition switch, as far as i can remember, was for the lights? It also came with a massive 17 tooth front sprocket to get some speed out of it, this made it useless for trials, it could be swapped for a much smaller one. It was a pretty gutless engine but a ty175 barrel, piston and head fit staight on, the silencer was different, as was the jetting. Also it had an oil pump fitted instead of using premix. I would think most old ty's would have had all this non trial stuff removed by now.

I used to have a TY that got a bit confused until i really cleaned the exhuast out, as in the whole exhuast, not just the silencer. I cut the front off the middle box, burnt out loads of gunk and carbon with a gas torch then repacked it, it ran really well after that. You don't have to cut the front off the box though, running a gas flame through it untill it's really hot does the same, but it did let me see what a state it was in, all the holes in the baffle were clogged and the diameter had narrowed quite a bit. The confused running was a problem that crept up slowly, not one that suddenly appears so not sure if it's your problem.

I too had a 315 Montesa, which I really liked, it was traded in for a Scorpa which was then traded in for a 06 4RT. I was advised not to go older than an 06 4RT as they didn't turn easily, the later ones being sorted. First impression of the 4RT was great, I then entered a trial and did terrible, it takes a lot of practicing to get used to it but when you do the engine is amazing, especially on big climbs. Modifications on my bike are a bigger clutch master cylinder, a thicker bash plate (the original one bent several times) and different suspension linkage (this made a big difference to turning). Overall impression of the 4rt is of a bike which feels physically big when compaired to the 2 strokes and also heavy (maybe I should point out that I'm only 5' 3''), it also doesn't have as good a turning circle, I've also got a yam 250 pinky which can turn way inside the 4RT's circle. In summery I'd say it's an amazing engine when you get used to it, but with geometry that's harder to ride with.

Thanks for all that, think I'll go for Talon hub with tubeless rim.

I have a 92 pinky mono, the rim on the rear wheel is badly corroded on the inside, as Z spokes are hard to get I want to get another wheel but with traditional spokes. Talon have their own TY hubs(using trad spokes) and could build a wheel for me, the problem is that they are unsure if it would fit the pinky. Are TY wheels interchangeable regardless of whether it's an old TY hub or a new pinky hub? thanks.

You could use it with an inner tube.

I've recently bought a 92 250 pinky, the clutch cover is pitted along the bottom edge and has been patched. I used to own a 94 pinky (in 94), it did the same after a couple of years. The reason i've been told is that the magnesium cover slowly dissolves in water. Is it true that earlier, pre pinky monos used aluminium covers rather than magnesium, if so do they fit exactly onto the pinky? Thanks in advance.

Is the flame trap (metal mesh cage) beneath the air filter needed? I've just changed the air filter for first time on a new 4rt, the cage didn't fit onto the new jitsie filter so i left it out. The plug has fouled a couple of times, the cage must restrict air flow a bit. Plug looked a lot better with new filter in.