worldtrialchamp

hand tighten only for those suckers...

sounds like it choking on raw fuel....fuel in crankcase from leaving tap on?

that's normal for the sight glass....500ml is about right...check the level again when the gear oil is hot....make sure its on flat ground...so long as oil appears in the glass you're good to go...I normally get it approx. halfway I did some testing with the Rev3s and two stroke oils. At least with the synthetics, I found any richer than 80:1 the bike did not run very clean on the pilot jet circuit which can contribute to blacken (soot) the plug. I run all my bikes at 100:1 nowadays on full synthetic 2T...seems I get a bit less life out of the pistons but I prefer the crisper throttle response...80:1 is a good compromise

yes, must remove inner clutch casing to remove impellor shaft the corrosion you have won't necessarily allow coolant into the oil unless its holed. remove the inner clutch cover and you'll soon see.

Hi HRMAD It does appear to be coolant or water in your oil. It can get in in one of three or four ways: 1. Past that o ring you've silicone up (replace it) 2. Past the waterpump shaft seal 3. Ingressed through the breather hose 4. Ingressed through a broken or poorly sealing inner clutch cover gasket (especially around the kick start area or where the aluminium protection plate pad meets the casing at the base) If coolant/water has got inside, it can also coagulate and remain inside the gearbox (after you've rectified the source) caught up inside on one of the internal castings as a blob or it could just be caught in the sight glass. Given the age of the bike, I'd suggest you replace the waterpump seal anyway and expect the shaft may also be grooved. Considering your description, I'd recommend removal of the inner clutch housing to inspect inside. Do this as you'll be able to: 1. Replace waterpump seal and shaft if required and eliminate that as the source 2. Flush out the gearcasing with some solvent if required (I use white spirit, fill it up, slosh it around, drain it, fill it up, slosh it around, drain it, remove cover and let the gearbox air dry) to remove any trapped coagulated coolant 3. Inspect and measure your clutch plates both drive and driven. I acknowledge the clutch mod posted on here, but in my experience I have found better results by replacing the clutch friction plates (especially if they have been exposed to water/coolant) and having the steel plates linished perfectly flat (ask a machine shop). Even a worn clutch friction plate that is within thickness specs (2.5-3.0mm) affects the operation of the clutch. Eg, if your plates are all 2.7mm thick, that's .3mm x 6 plates = 1.8mm wear across the clutch pack. Doesn't sound much and in theory the self adjusting clutch mechanism compensates for this but in reality the action does change. Plates that have been exposed to coolant will continue to make the bike lurch when cold. Another technique that works well is to start bike when cold, and use an elastic band to hold the clutch lever in. By the time you've warmed the bike, the clutch usually doesn't grab. Again, this doesn't work when the plates have been exposed to coolant/water. Finally, choice of gearbox oil makes a big difference. There are many choices. I did a lot of testing with various brands, comparing the feel they provided with the amount of metal filings on the magnet at each change. I ended up using Silkolene light gear oil in all my Betas. Its a compromise between sufficient gearbox protection and good clutch action. This is just my experience, you may find others here offer other alternatives. None of them are right or wrong. Its just trial and error. btw, you shouldn't have any issue with corrosion on your bike, as the 200cc models, as far as I can tell from the part numbers, may have all had aluminium cases. It was the magnesium case that corroded. Won't hurt to check though whilst you have it apart (again). http://static.wpe.au.syrahost.com/var/m_2/2f/2fe/4880/69803-Rev3_Waterpump_Corrosion_.pdf?download http://www.trials.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4635

hi Mcman56 the rev 3 shock service kit is no longer available from the factory, so unless a dealer has one somewhere, keep this in mind. that being said, if your shock is not leaking, then the bladder (which are very thick n tough) should b reusable. however, the main seal should be replaced. As these are not available, a substitute seal can be used which may require turning the seal housing out on a lathe. I have rebuilt a few of these now and they are a bit tricky to assemble as you need to purge the air and set the correct tension of oil against the bladder before recharging with nitrogen. Its ideally best left to a shock repairer with experience. Not that expensive to have done with peace of mind And yes, the difference can be felt.

correct, it is aluminium.....can see by the waterpump cover casting. 2003 onwards has a twin cavity casting which indicates magnesium clutch cover (although 125, 200cc may still have had aluminium, I'd have to check part numbers) something to check for on the 2002...the rear brake caliper torque lug...they are poorly welded into the swingarm and can snap off..seen quite a few do this....2003 on had better welding

The black screw is the idle speed screw, the large aluminium knurled 'wheel' is for air/fuel idle mixture adjustment on the 2008 model Rev 3...

211 Have been through this exercise on a few bikes...replacing springs, adding spacers, increasing preload, all to reduce the sag. in the end, each time, have reverted to the original springs and restored the sag...suspension worked best this way.....wasted my money but learnt a lot doesn't mean to say you can't tweak things that initial 1-1.5" dead travel as you describe....you do need that for trials

Hi Starr870 Tell me to butt out if required, but I don't see the connection between worn crank bearings and your original concern (bike not revving out cleanly). Did you resolve that issue? worldtrialchamp

the front pipe is easy to burn out....set the oxy cutting torch just inside the exit of the header pipe until the carbon starts to glow red, you don't need massive amounts of heat, just enough to get it to glow red..then remove the oxy torch and gently blow compressed air in...with safety glasses on you can observe inside the pipe and watch the carbon burn itself out being regulated by the amount of compressed air you're feeding in (don't burn your face!)...pay attention not to allow the metal of the header pipe to glow red (not disastrous but its preferable not to heat it that much). you may have to heat from both ends of the pipe until no more carbon comes out the centre pipe will have a fine steel gauze inside much like a metal scouring pad....it melts very easily so less heat is best until you get the hang of it.....primarily, heat the inside of the pipe like you did with header pipe, the carbon will glow and you'll blow it out with compressed air....keep a large rag handy soaked/dripping in a bucket of water and continually douse the aluminium outer surface with this to keep the outer temp under control...if you have a friend to do this that's good....expect a lot of smoke from the centre pipe....take your time, burn it slowly...remember, less is best, keep burning it, swapping ends until your satisfied with the amount of ozone depleting smoke you've created....when your done, the inside will look near new....the outer aluminium surface will probably have a somewhat etched appearance to it.... you may be able to use a high volume LPG powered heating torch with same effect, but I have not tried...

starr870 The encrusted carbon in the exhaust is an often overlooked matter. Its critical on a two stroke engine that the exhaust is kept in new condition and/or regularly restored to new condition.......on a bike the age of a Techno, if it hasn't been performed before, I can imagine the deposits are extremely thick. To answer your question, the best way for me to do it is to burn it out with oxy acetylene. Often, tuning issues will be resolved simply by removing the carbon in the exhaust and the combustion chamber and ensuring the compression is 100% (fresh set of piston rings) If you're not concerned about the exhaust finish, just have it burnt out or go to an engine reconditioning shop and have it hot tubbed to remove ALL carbon deposits. There are other ways that you could try to clean it at home, but in my experience (I don't want to spend hours and hours doing this as its something I do annually) I prefer a quick effective solution. Others on here may offer other alternatives, but they do not suit me...the point is that it must be done, regardless of method

has the entire exhaust system/combustion chamber been removed of ALL carbon? if not, you're embarking on a wild goose chase

haven't tried with a EVO, but have reused REV head gaskets over and over, never an issue. just make sure the black sealing compound is for the most part still there (some deterioration is fine). I just use a very light smear of high temp wheel bearing grease to help it seal but not enough so that it would squeeze out and get into the cooling system

The Keihin PWK28 fitted to modern trials bikes has only one atmospheric port open, the other one is blanked off by the casting. I have done this mod to several bikes fitted with Keihin PWK28 carb. It stops the bike gagging when at extreme angles eg splatters, steep descents On the LHS of the carburettor, the vertical atmospheric port inside the float bowl area is pre cast by Keihin but the horizontal port on the LHS is blanked. Just drill it out with a 2.5mm drill until it meets the existing vertical port (you'll feel it)

opening the choke when its at full throttle is unlikely to stop the engine, may make things worse (on a red hot engine) as the engine can cope with the extra fuel delivery... the throttle spring on a Keihin carb is very light and its easy to yank the cable to wide open throttle and she will run away I'd still get that plug lead off, and crimp the fuel line (if possible) and block the exhaust...rather be replacing rubber exhaust seals than the hardened cylinder bore and rings I did hear someone say one can flip the bike over and this prevents the fuel being delivered but its dangerous to go touching wheels when the engine at full rpm...accidentally knock the gearshift and you could end up in hospital either way, its a nerve wracking situation to be in....

agree...check bearing and pin, after that, check to see if pedal bent slightly....can be straightened in a vice with soft jaws, heat gun and a large adjustable wrench placed over the tip of the pedal....careful though....easy to crack it off if you're not patient....bend it a little at a time (you'll need to remove bearing to do this job anyway, or you'll melt the rubber seals). get someone else to do it if you've no experience working with aluminium

when i bought the bike, it had green coolant in it. Since I first repaired it, I have only used Motul Factoryline Organic coolant. The corrosion hasn't altered since, only the epoxy deteriorates after a while (5 years) and its not even waterproof epoxy I am using.....

no need

I performed this repair 5yrs ago on the same bike......It started leaking again the other day and I was going to replace the case, but money is tight so I spent another hour rebuilding this one....its not picture perfect but its good for another five years I guess

time for a flatslide carb？...just a suggestion

not exactly what you asked for but the 2006 system design is essentially the same 2006 Rev3 Electrical.pdf

using what method to 'clean up'?

I started with an 02 Beta, loved it, and am now on my fifth Beta....persevere with it....on an 02 model, considering the age, in addition to performing the clutch mod, check the clutch basket fingers for 'gauling'...it is repairable at not cost, just some extra time removing the component and dressing the fingers with a smooth file.

if the carb is clean, consider if the entire exhaust system and combustion chamber have been cleared of all carbon in last 12 months?...start there, then make sure compression is within specs, then worry about your carb