worldtrialchamp

straight from the user manual...min thickness for pads is 2mm. replace earlier to avoid what you've described. they don't wear symmetrically because they have a leading and trailing edge....once worn this causes the pistons to thrust and they get stuck...a tiny piece of grit inside will make this a whole lot worse....these calipers only have primary hydraulic seals...no dust seal..they need frequent cleaning

and what is that pipe/hose/cable next to the cylinder? something someone had added?

do Google search 'Rev3 Waterpump Corrosion'....plenty of info there

there is a lot of adjustment available using the original spring

I've overhauled a few of the rear socks. It's a quality unit....Seal kit no longer available but a substitute seal can be used (eg Showa) and machine the housing to accomodate it. The bladders rarely fail and can be reused.

might have to ask your dealer to request it from the factory (unless someone has a spare crank laying around)

air leak

sounds like grit in the system, around the caliper pistons/seals

I think you'll find workshop manual doesn't exist until the EVO. Exploded diagram is all you'll get for the REV3

http://trialsport.com.au/beta/documents.htm 125 was definitely produced in 2003?

you'll find if you follow that passage it leads to the mating surface of the crankcase/cylinder.....the corresponding passages in the cylinder on your bike would be blocked off by Welsh plugs....the give away is that your watwrpump cover has two hoses, older Rev3s had only one

that portal used to be a coolant passage on older Rev3s. just ignore it. ..

if thé threaded part is seized, you may need a long drill bit so a parallel thread remover can be inserted. ...you wont know until all the seized head of the bolt is dremel'd out

I used a cylinder shape dremel at low speed....had to drill into the bolt first to the depth of the shank/head of the seized bolt (use new bolt to measure) then the dremel is inserted to do its work (slowly). Grind it out until it's almost a thin layer of cylindrical steel left so it collapses upon itself. can't recall what I did after that but the remaining threaded bolt wasn't seized, it just spun out. No need for engineering shop. if you've got a vice with some soft jaws, a quality sharp drill set, dremel, lubricant, and of course a variable speed power drill, the only other things required are patience and steady hands. oh and compressed air is kind of important to keep clearing the swarf out...

washing bike before stripping engine must be a thing of the past

Looking through the Jitsie catalogue the other day, noticed they sell a replacement shock for the Rev3 by Olle...

there is an obvious external casting difference between 125/200 and 250/270 cylinders. The header (exhaust) pipe on a 125 is also quite different to the 200/250/270. Should be easy enough to narrow it down just by looking at some close up photos of the engine or examine other bikes. The engine/frame number series are also contained in the engine parts manual (attached). But this alone doesn't guarantee modifications haven't occurred. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/55054-my-new-06-rev3/page-2 that topic has a close up of both sides of the engine and the exhaust. A 250/270 should look like that.

Air boy. ...a must for any hydraulic brake work

get yourself a compressor and one of these. These tiny hydraulic systems aren't designed to be hand bled unless there is no alternative....

can see from the photos your kickstarter position is incorrect. Turning it on the spline would bring it too far forward. Someone has had the mechanism apart and not aligned the gears correctly. It's important because your getting one tooth less of rotation for starting.

no, it's not a case of just swapping carbs. the manifold, snorkel, throttle cable all require changing. The mixture screw is also on the opposite side on a Keihin. There is a company selling conversion kits for these but I can't recall where....might have been in Australia or New Zealand. someone else here might know. best to get some expert advice. ...

yep. front bolts first, not done up all the way.....then place the bike onto a stand so that the full mass of the bike bears upon the plate....then use locking vice grips to finally draw the plate up to the rear bolt holes one at a time, a small screwdriver inserted into the thread to guide it into place before you lock the pliers...little bit of grease on the threads doesn't hurt if the plate is really crushed, its a p...k of a job and not good for the frame if its that's damn tight..consider attempting to reshape it in a press...again, not easy but I've had success bending them with heat and a press..I've also replaced them

a press to get the case together?

can use the screw from the sump guard/bash plate...same part. Here is a pic, for a Rev3 but same part on EVO

any update HRMAD?