worldtrialchamp

and the 300 is definitely thirstier. ..but it might be the slightly smaller fuel capacity and 50cc extra

"précision from the rider". totally agree. I think the Rev3 is much more forgiving

would you attempt to repair electrical faults in your home? no you'd seek an electrician. take your bike to a mechanic

I agree that the clutch hydraulics are self adjusting and the theory behind the shimming should be flawed.....but I suspect the position of hydraulic pistons especially the slave piston is important. A millimeter or two in the wrong direction may actually affect things. ...I'm keen to try this adjustment

the linkless rear suspension on the Rev3 is a big time and money saver from a maintenence viewpoint....

probably in need of a hard trail ride in the mountains to burn all the crap out and or a tear down to do same

it's interesting how the manufacturers go up and down engine sizes over the years....I guess without change the bikes aren't as attractive?

I think I prefer the older sizes eg 270....they are a bit snappier

the brake lines usually outlast the bike

might be a common part but not a common failure....

Gilardoni

good..get em

that's straight out of the S3 Catalogue. Is yours the same?

actually now that I think of it, I recall seeing an advertisement years ago for these S3 pipes and I noticed the Rev3 had a sleeve there. ..let me see if I can find that pic

..might be a reason for it eg expansion of titanium vs steel. ...not sure..you could ask S3 for an explanation.

yeah, Beta dispensed with the tension nut and lock nut design a few years back on the standard and factory models. I think the torque setting is 10nm...really very little pre-load required to stop the noise you're referring to....so tighten it a little until the noise/movement goes away...

you'll find out soon enough...front tyre does not look suited to trials

93 Synt? with a custom paint job

unless you're able to get the engine up to operating temperature id avoid starting it after washing.

In my experience acetone doesn't work. ....just doesn't seem to possess the dissolving properties needed for this task (at least in the product available to the public, commercial/industrial acetone might be different?) I've burnt about 15 of the Rev3 header pipes and central mufflers. ...the header pipe can be heated inside until the carbon is glowing red at which point removal of flame and gentle introduction of compressed air will allow self combustion. ..note, this will destroy the external plating... The central muffler needs to be kept cool externally while performing the same process. A water soaked rag draped over the outside works well and keep dousing this with water. Introduce flame at one end until self combustion can be maintained with compressed air...the muffler will burn itself out to about the half way point, then do this again from the other end until most of the carbon is gone. The only negative to this process is that the fine steel mesh inside does melt a little if you concentrate the heat for too long and this reduces its ability to muffle sound (it becomes a bit louder) but the performance gains are well worth it. this needs to be done about every 80-120hrs in addition to decoking the combustion chamber....more often if you're running rich oil/fuel ratios and or rarely get the engine/exhaust smoking hot. ...

the mod as per your document

not sure lineaway. ...just found after 3 bike mods the engagement speed tends to slow....I now prefer to have the steel clutch discs linished perfectly flat as a first step even on a new bike. get really strong bite out of the clutch and no dragging/sticking...

lots of wires and stuff makes access difficult. I know it's more time consuming but I find any work in that area is easy once radiator is out....personal preference.. the CDI sits in a rubber sleeve which after time may bond itself to the CDI plastic case..... if you remove the o ring around the fuel filler neck, and remove the plastic tank trim, then radiator cap, the access is not too bad for removing CDI through the frame top.... still prefer to remove radiator, gives me a chance to inspect everything, clean up the area and ensure the routing of wires etc won't pinch when steering goes lock to lock

I dont like this mod when I need to attack something. ..the clutch action is too slow to fully engage under high load

pretty sure I saw an S3 piston inverted and 'VERTEX' moulded inside.