using flame is very aggressive but does offer near perfect internal results, however kiss goodbye to the exterior finish. Its also risky as its easy to destroy (melt) the fine steel 'wool' inside which can make the exhaust note a bit louder. I've done some experimenting using a heat gun with very good results. Its far less aggressive and you need no other tools. If you do this annually as preventative maintenance you can avoid the need for use of a flame to burn out very large deposits. Best practice is to keep a bucket full of water and water soaked rags handy. Using these you can control the external temperature to a degree.
This clip may give you some ideas
I take no responsibility if you attempt this and things go wrong
Have same bike with same clutch operation. Its not to my liking but I don't lose points in the sections from it. I just cut a bit of the grip away and shift the master cylinder clamp position. You may find a different lever could resolve it...
The pilot circuit is easily blocked on the Keihin (and OKO). It still catches me out. Make sure you're cleaning it all in solvent as well as using compressed air reversed through all the circuits. Take the air/fuel screw out when cleaning. The PWK is a reliable carb but very temperamental if unclean. Another pitfall that catches many out is loss of the brass needle jet if you've unscrewed the emulsion tube....
The Factory spec for the float is 19mm on a Keihin. This setting is not the same for an OKO...
as far as I can tell from the part numbers and what I've seen, no difference to the actual discs themselves until you hit 2008, the rear disc was 0.3mm thinner
