2stroke4stroke

Your personal messenger is not receiving, Senor 249.

Very interesting - how about organising a trip to the Montesa Festival? I'm sure you would find a lot of interest on here.

I was at Union Mills when Dave Taylor passed on his attempt. I think he was credited with having achieved success despite, I think it was said, a couple of momentary touchdowns. I'm sure my TL 250 was even heavier than the impression given by John Noakes on lifting it?

You didn't appreciate my weak humour but never mind that. I quoted from Jitsie's info. They say just the same for their Gas Gas filters which are the same construction.

I have never understood why people make a "stronger" sump guard then drill big holes to weaken it in order to save next to no weight.

You're right, and we are all now used to much pokier motors than in that day and we didn't have the advantage of radials until quite late on.

Jitsie themselves say the coarse layer is to "stop large particles and resist clogging", which it clearly can't do as an inner (relative to airflow) layer, though they describe it as an outer layer. Maybe they're all made the wrong way round? No mention of flame guarding properties which you would expect them to emphasise were that the case. In over a year of changing filters after every outing I have seen no evidence of flame reaching the filter, nor have I on any four-stroke I have owned in all the years. Though I accept that Honda must feel the need of it. Are aftermarket filter users really suffering burned filters?

I have standard, Apico and Jitsie - can't tell which one is in when riding the bike so no performance difference that way for me. I just put the standard set up in then put the lid on without bothering to actually attach the filter to the metal frame. By the time the lid is screwed down nothing is going to get by the edges anyway. Being on the clean side of the filter the coarse layer on the Jitsie appears to have little function.

Two Nations etc axulsuv. I meant made in the loosest sense as we use it here and was referring to the Minarelli motor which they developed, as the works boys didn't use the 200 Pro in the World Champs. Though the barrel was the same as far as I know from a recent write up. The 240 never really was the everyman motor the 200 was.

The next item on YouTube was the full one and a half hour version of that RC166 item where they strip it down in front of an audience and interview what was clearly those involved in the day. If only someone could put English subtitles on it?

I always felt the Fantic was the ultimate aircooled motor with good performance (it spanned clubman to world championship level), reliability and longevity all of which was never quite surpassed by others. My preference was the 200 - a lot of people did not get on with the 240. I was not surprised when, fairly recently, someone who knew one of the development team at Fantic told me that Fantic themselves thought the 200 was the best motor they ever made.

I'm sure you could get out tomorrow by sticking the remains in with silicon.

I had to remove my silencer and noticed that, in addition to having had the end cap swapped per the standard road kit removal, the other end has been removed and refitted by a previous owner, presumably to perform some modification. Perhaps removal of something. Does anyone know what the inside of an 09 should contain before I start drilling? I'm sure it sounds louder since I had the mounting bracket welded so I am thinking there might be packing round a perforated tube and the heat has affected it.

I would guess that any similarity is barely even skin deep. Crankcase perhaps but probably not much beyond that and the basic frame. Cost is irrelevant to Honda in this context.

Orange instead of green then possibly?

You mean they've finally caught up with the TYZ?

The stuff I was recommended was for use in underwater cranes - action is similar to putting a bar through the spokes.

You would imagine that the 125 might be more lightly sprung, given that much of its target market must be about your weight, but I have never seen this mentioned in any of the specs or announcements about models.

Wiggling needs to be done with the front wheel held, usually between the legs, or not much will happen.

Could be worse - someone did that to a 4RT this weekend.

I've never used these but the reason for the screwed in pins is to allow replacement to maintain the vital grip on the boots. My experience with these pins on mountain bike pedals is that they sieze in and you won't easily get them out, you might even damage the rest such that you can't fit new pins, though others may have experience to the contrary. Being softer the alloy wears, as far as I can tell from looking at other bikes, leading to the rests drooping down at the ends which does not help your control. If you really feel the standard rests are not wide enough I would suggest you get a loop welded on the rear edge - the saving over the alloys will go a good way towards a new tyre when the time comes? Keeping the steel rests sharp only needs the occasional stroke of a file.

Kevin will no doubt have experience to back up what he says but I ran Silkolene for many years on a Beta with no problems. I genuinely would like to know what the problem with it might be. More importantly, when I used Ipone the markings on the bottle were very inaccurate, to the point of possibly being detrimental to the motor on a lean ratio. Notwithstanding that it's a good idea to measure accurately with a syringe or suchlike anyway.

He could be quite good one day if he sticks at it☺

There is a reason why the 125 feels that way, it's due to the lighter crank/flywheels causing less gyroscopic effect apparently and the effect is reported to be noticeable on road bikes that differ in motor size but otherwise similar.

There is only one piece of advice that most will give - get straight back to the dealer as it seems this came about after the service?