totty79

Depends on engine size, the 250 is very low compression and doesn't need super, in compression order it's 250, 300, 200, 125.

Try to find a local radiator repair place, most town's have/had one and they tend to be cheap.

Consider replacing the plates both friction (all thin) and steel and using a proven oil like 300v or nanotrans (or atf but you may find it like an on off switch). It's not cheap but might save you a lot of time, I wasted ages on mine before throwing parts at it which was the only thing that made a significant difference.

The gearbox oil has a fairly easy life, changing it that frequently is a waste. On the Beta oil choice is mainly about minimising clutch drag, you may get away with what you've bought or you may need either nanotrans or motul 300v.

There are 3 on eBay

No, but I'm watching this thread with interest. An alternative bearing or bush could maybe be used. The little bearing isn't full width and the seals which are part of it are also ineffective, it needs regreasing regularly, and has side to side pay even when new.

My 2012 is the same. Replacing the bush and bearing reduced it but not for long.

70ml to 5L Clutch drag is an issue on these with many oils, on top of the two recommendations above Motul 300v 5w30 is good. ATF is a bit Marmite. Consider using plastic bolts for the rear mud guard so they break instead of it.

They were fitted as instructed. They only wound out into the wood frame though and the door was weak enough to bend. They are subtle, but if left accessible could be cut with a grinder.

I had a brake in with the locks in the link above, they simply bent the door. You need to prevent that with other devices or maybe by bracing between them. I've used them again on the new door, but into the ground not the frame and with a bar locked down on front of them.

What people choose to ride shouldn't matter, but making an easy route inaccessible is not a good idea. If the top 5 score zero tough, it's their choice and they can move up if they want a challenge. If a typical newcomer can finish on a 125 score with rider and bike in one piece it's ok. If they can't get round many will not come back.

I've ripped a tube stem off due to a tyre rotating at 4psi, but it was a cheap vee rubber tyre. I'd just bought the bike and didn't know it had a tube fitted.

Some degree of compression and distortion means the distance won't be fixed with a different force, can't see it changing by much though, condition of the hydraulics probably makes a bigger difference. If the parts were easily available I'd give it a try.

Are lighter springs or different washers easily available from anywhere? I'm one of those owners that once it's close enough will normally just ride the thing.

New plates and steels (surflex I think), all plates of the thinner type not two thicker as standard. (On a 2012) Was spot on but two years later it's starting to get a mild drag. Haase do a diaphragm clutch but they aren't cheap.

Wear after 15 days really doesn't sound great. Not sure about compromising top end with vforce either. Might try the remaining option, the dual stage boyesen power reeds. Although now I've adjusted to the bike as is I might not bother, but it feels like a cop out after asking for opinions.

Thanks for the review.

That's also my style of riding. Out of interest was the jetting change consistent across all bikes? (e.g. 1 step on the pilot) or did you need to go through the full circuit by circuit tunning prices each time?

Mines a 2012 250, not sure how it compares to other years.

I like your thinking. I didn't like the overrun with the flywheel weight either though. Now pretty much decided to try the reeds then decide which compromise/combo to make. Still undecided on which ones to go for though.

Thanks for the replies, but it's hard to tell from the descriptions if I'd like a reed change or not, I might just have to try a set. What I hoped a reed change would provide is more predictable chugging and stall resistance. Thats the one bit of riding where I liked the flywheel weight. I can deal with it with the clutch, it's not a problem just a preference. A minor increase in liveliness is ok as a trade off but not what I'm seeking.

I'll take another look at the thread on Vforce KTM65 reeds. Boyesen look to be cheaper and easier to source though so I'm interested in any experience anyone can share on these, especially a comparison of the two types.

Do aftermarket reeds have a noticeable effect around idle rpm? Smoothness and stall resistance. Which are best in this area? Boyesen Power or Carbon Tech? I'd expect the two piece Power reeds to be best for this but don't have experience of either. I've recently removed a flywheel weight, and find it much better in many ways but less smooth near idle and easier to stall. Not a big issue but if a reed change helps then it seems worth it.

I have a couple of the shotgun ones, but I've resisted the temptation to test fire them.

BT alarm remote works through a garage door.