totty79

What you're describing is very subjective and could just be the flywheel weight (however it would be 100% consistent), or it could be the range of other issues that have been suggested. If it is consistent then I'd try to compare it to another 250 evo before changing anything.

After the terrible initial depreciation they can stay in the 1200 to 2000 range for many years. Best not to spend too much more unless you really like shiny things.

I'd change that order. You'll need tight turns and double blip long before you'd need to hop either end. Also static balancing can be good training, but most trials are no stop.

Try MSM for insurance, they are one of the few where competition usage doesn't void it. I think they need a garage and a thatcham approved security device, typically chain and ground anchor. There are loads of which bike/what CC threads on here. It all boils down to personal preference, but lot's of people are of the opinion that a 125 can do everything a novice needs even for fairly large riders. Beta evo/rev 200 seems to be the most recommended. I wouldn't be too fussy about model/capacity, better to focus on mechanical condition.

Be certain groove is clean, rotate boot several times to help it seat correctly before using lever.

Characteristics may be more important than outright power, 125s are lively but manageable as peak power is low - it's a serious competition bike for junior riders (high compression light flywheel), 250 is comparatively lazy but still has a lot more power than a 125 - it's a detuned bike made to be controllable by the average person despite the larger capacity (lowest compression of the range, weighted flywheel). I've never ridden a 200 but those who have rave about them, I couldn't find a used one so bought a 250. 300 super smooth could also be an option. Sorry that probably doesn't help since I've recommended all of the 2T range apart from the normal 300. I've hared the 250 4T is very novice friendly but I've never ridden one.

In my experience the least beginner friendly (and therefore potentially dangerous to some riders) bits have been between sections, the sections themselves are usually well thought out. I can think of examples when I was starting out that beat me up a bit, left me needing assistance and unable to finish, I could of course have turned around and that's my responsibility, entering a beginner trial also would have been a smarter move.

I'd rather start in 2 to 4 places and not have the risk for the whole lap.

Works for some, but I have had to miss gates and I've also crashed to avoid walkers and I've only done 3 trials.

Personally I'd like to see staggered section starts, or something similar. I'm not comfortable riding a section while loads of people are walking it, seems an unnecessary risk.

autotest is great fun, only done one but used to watch it quite often, it may be safer than trials though - far less chance of minor injuries.

Take a look at

If you want new I'd say go for it. No matter what bike you start on you'll get beat by pensioners on twin shocks and the odd pre 65 for quite a while so why pay extra to get the highest available specs.

That was my point writing off side valve due to not being in wide spread use is easily extended to writing off 2 strokes for the same reason. Trials engine desirable characteristics are a bit peculiar compared to everything on road. Although having said that desirable characteristics differ quite a bit for different skill levels.

Isn't that what the general public say about 2 strokes

I'm averaging 1 trial and 24 practise hours a year, can't see me cleaning an expert route anytime soon, still progressing though.

That's not my experience, I've been into monkeybikes for 15 years and aside from a couple of dodgy exceptions these motors have been quite decent. Yes they aren't Honda quality, but they'll run fine for 10 years and they cost less than a trials top end rebuild.

I think we'll see more and more bikes like this. The motors are cheap and compact and tuning parts are plentiful. Personally I like it. I'd like to know what the box with wires is on the cam cover.

Don't get too hung up on the CCs, they don't tell the full story on engine character. Different makes, models and even years can be very different. For example beta and gas gas 250s are very different as the beta has a flywheel weight (although it is removable). Personally I prefer the opposite extremes of a lively rev happy 125 or running a higher gear on a torquey 300, but didn't find out until after buying a 250. If possible test ride whatever is in good condition and within budget, if it feels manageable then buy it.

Pretty much every cylinder has had a cross hatch hone since at least the 60s.

I ride for fun, skills and exercise, with little interest in competing. I ride what challenges me and I can't get my head around the desire to ride something so far within your capability that you'd clean most sections, luckily I'm also not very good. I was a junior kickstart fan.

My wolfsport boots killed me until the ankles sagged, they have a plastic bit meant to protect the ankle joint that dug in on the right boot. I've also injured a toe in them. Boots are all about the fit though, best to buy what you can try, or failing that go for the cheapest.

New I'd splash a grand to 1500 on one, but I'm confident that Chinese manufacturers could produce something like this for under a grand, some of their road bikes start from 700. What would limit the appeal to most though is they wouldn't be competitive against a similarly priced txt/rev3 etc. and I'm sure twinshock rules would be adjusted to keep them out of those classes.

The fuel taps can leak, I've had to replace one, later bikes use a different design. It's worth a look.

Yer I could go along with that as well, but if looking for a project rather than a bike (and already owning an evo) it does appeal.