totty79

autotest is great fun, only done one but used to watch it quite often, it may be safer than trials though - far less chance of minor injuries.

Take a look at

If you want new I'd say go for it. No matter what bike you start on you'll get beat by pensioners on twin shocks and the odd pre 65 for quite a while so why pay extra to get the highest available specs.

That was my point writing off side valve due to not being in wide spread use is easily extended to writing off 2 strokes for the same reason. Trials engine desirable characteristics are a bit peculiar compared to everything on road. Although having said that desirable characteristics differ quite a bit for different skill levels.

Isn't that what the general public say about 2 strokes

I'm averaging 1 trial and 24 practise hours a year, can't see me cleaning an expert route anytime soon, still progressing though.

That's not my experience, I've been into monkeybikes for 15 years and aside from a couple of dodgy exceptions these motors have been quite decent. Yes they aren't Honda quality, but they'll run fine for 10 years and they cost less than a trials top end rebuild.

I think we'll see more and more bikes like this. The motors are cheap and compact and tuning parts are plentiful. Personally I like it. I'd like to know what the box with wires is on the cam cover.

Don't get too hung up on the CCs, they don't tell the full story on engine character. Different makes, models and even years can be very different. For example beta and gas gas 250s are very different as the beta has a flywheel weight (although it is removable). Personally I prefer the opposite extremes of a lively rev happy 125 or running a higher gear on a torquey 300, but didn't find out until after buying a 250. If possible test ride whatever is in good condition and within budget, if it feels manageable then buy it.

Pretty much every cylinder has had a cross hatch hone since at least the 60s.

I ride for fun, skills and exercise, with little interest in competing. I ride what challenges me and I can't get my head around the desire to ride something so far within your capability that you'd clean most sections, luckily I'm also not very good. I was a junior kickstart fan.

My wolfsport boots killed me until the ankles sagged, they have a plastic bit meant to protect the ankle joint that dug in on the right boot. I've also injured a toe in them. Boots are all about the fit though, best to buy what you can try, or failing that go for the cheapest.

New I'd splash a grand to 1500 on one, but I'm confident that Chinese manufacturers could produce something like this for under a grand, some of their road bikes start from 700. What would limit the appeal to most though is they wouldn't be competitive against a similarly priced txt/rev3 etc. and I'm sure twinshock rules would be adjusted to keep them out of those classes.

The fuel taps can leak, I've had to replace one, later bikes use a different design. It's worth a look.

Yer I could go along with that as well, but if looking for a project rather than a bike (and already owning an evo) it does appeal.

I think the problem is that switching off is not seen as good etiquette, it may not be people ignoring etiquette and being selfish, most probably haven't given it a thought. It might be worth asking organisers if they would mention it when riders are briefed at the start of an event.

I see the appeal in the motor, they're compact, have enough poke and you can pickup a full motor for less than a replate and piston on a typical trials motor. That one looks like a 140cc, but the Honda Nice 110 that uses the same mounts has been taken up to 320cc. You can also get twin cam, twin spark and all sorts, different clutches, cams flywheels etc. are also common.

http://www.bikesportnews.com/news/news-detail/simon-crafars-better-riding-tips-physical-training

The top hat washers can be fitted either way around to set a different spring preload, these combined with 2 thicker plates apparently give 6 clutch setups - there's a document somewhere that explains it...... Edit found link http://www.betausa.com/sites/default/files/pdf/STT-2012-3-Evo%20300%20clutch%20set%20up.pdf

It's descended into another challenging each other's experience contest, why does that always happen here. To answer the original post, I doubt that you'll find the 1200 too heavy, lighter is better but it's not the only factor and it may be worth it if you find the visor useful.

after capacity most differences are just compression and flywheel weight so at least you can change it if you later feel like you've made the wrong choice.

It's also worth noting that not all 250s are the same, for example there's quite an engine character difference between a 2012 250 gas gas and a 2012 250 Beta - the Beta is very soft due to low compression and a flywheel weight. Personally when I started (and now if I was changing bikes) I'd have gone with the many Beta 200 recommendations, but they don't seem to come up for sale often.

There's not much difference in capability, at least not with the Beta's that I've ridden, it's just different characteristics. I'd go for whichever you can find in the right condition at the right price.

Make sure it's clean, and rotate the grommet a few times so it gets seated properly.

Broke two, using plastic bolts helps as they tend to rip out instead.