totty79

I followed a guide for sag which is no longer online so I can't help with that. Oil measurement differs by year, could be height or grams, but go with the manual. I guess you could keep both forks in the bottom yolk but removing them separately would be easier. Ignore the marketed oil weight, the cst value is more meaningful, match it to the oil in the manual, the weight may turn out to be 2.5w or 5w. If you get it wrong you'll run out of adjustment. Adjustment, see how max and min feels to understand the effect, set to middle and tweak as needed.

Looks like you might have to weigh the oil or see what years used the same forks and check those manuals. Mines a 2012 so a lot might have changed from the manual I use.

Best to do a search, there are a few opinions on this, oil threads are always like that. 300v, nanotrans and atf come up the most.

1. every 2 years. 2. The oil recommended in the manual or an alternative with the same cst rating (different brands of 5w can vary a lot). 3. I think the manual specifies it by height but I don't have it to hand. You can do both with a normal bottle. 4. Remove wheel, undo top clamp then fork cap then bottom clamp. Don't be surprised that only one fork has a spring. Pump to get old oil out, then again to get the air out.

Take the spark plug out so you can turn it over by hand and see if you can then see or feel anything specific.

Several oils are known to reduce drag (atf, nano trans, and 300v in several grades) Reducing the spring preload can also help, swapping out the two thicker plates if they're still fitted or using spacers on the springs. Both of the above affect the feel so it's mainly a matter of preference. The "fix" improves the finish on the plates, you would need to take a look at them to work out whether it might help. On a new bike I'd run it a bit and do an oil change before doing anything else.

Good advice on methods in the posts above, but i find a vacuum bleeder the easiest method. For any method wraping a little ptfe tape round the bleed nipple threads can help, just avoid the taper where it seals.

It looks as though several clutch parts are shared with sherco, e.g. updated springs are listed as fitting both. You can get 20% softer springs for a sherco, which might be worth a try. I've gone for the cheaper option and ordered sherco clutch spring retaining washers to try, they're stepped not flat and they are much cheaper than the red top hat ones fitted to some beta's. Edit: the washers aren't a direct fit, they fit the springs but will need drilling out to fit the bolt.

Did you clean out the seal grooves in the calliper? You're right that it may sort itself out when ridden, mine had loads of travel last time I changed seals and it was fine after riding.

Is the outer boot/seal available separately for the 2017 onwards rear master cylinder? I've done a few searches and I can only find the full kit. I've just tore one clumsily fitting a new master cylinder in the dark, the batteries ran out on the flood lights. Expensive mistake if I have to buy a £25 repair kit.

+1 on the omnia. Only downside is they may not fit in your boots, I have to wear them over.

The only time I've ran a tube the valve stem was ripped off it within 30 min. It was an old gas gas 321 that I'd just bought, and I didn't know it had a tube in it when I reduced it to 4psi. The cheap vee rubber tube tyre might not have helped. The rim was too corroded for the rim tape alone to seal, partly caused by a previous owner with acidic silicone sealant, but it was good enough with a bottle of slime in it which I'd recommended trying instead of a tube.

As a general rule of thumb to aid understanding (which isn't universally true) 125 and 300 bikes are highly tuned serious competition machines, 250s are often in a lower state of tune for beginners, it's not just the 50cc that makes the difference.

Laughable isn't it, suppliers charge us £60 to £100 for a pair of trousers and consider us tight for not wanting to pay even more. Jitsie Omnia are decent, but at £100 I won't be buying a second pair anytime soon.

I've read that the master cylinder has a different bore from 2018, it might be worth a try, I've considered buying one but haven't got around to it. New pedal bush and bearing helps a lot, but not for long, once worn the pedal twists and bends inwards. Not letting the pads get more than half worn helps. As already mentioned getting some heat into it before you need it also helps.

My guess would be that a bit of dirt was blocking the main jet and it no longer is. Can't see the throttle being relevant.

It took me a while to get around to it but I've fitted boyesen power reeds. Unfortunately the original reeds had one petal sitting a couple of mm off the block so I can't provide any useful feedback on the difference they made. It feels like a different bike but that's to be expected. Very stall resistant and responsive from idle, which I wanted, and much stronger mid range.

If there aren't loads of bikes near you then put condition and value first, look for something useable that you won't lose a fortune on if you decide it's not for you. 125 easier to learn on but highly capable if you ring it's neck (and that's what they are made for) very few riders truly outgrow them, they just fancy more torque. 300 even with your experience will slow down your leaning but shouldn't scare the crap out of you. 250 is the bog standard choice, often a lower state of tune than either of the other two so it's not just about cc's. If training for riding a 2 stroke enduro I'd prefer 2 stroke for more comparable characteristics.

It's legal to ride it there, you just have to pre book so that you can prove that's where you were riding to.

What's your reason for moving on to a 250? The difference between the evo 125 and 250 is less than the capacity might make you expect, I can switch between them effortlessly and I'm crap. Where are you located, can you scrounge a go on a few other bikes?

300v or nanotrans, with some going for atf. I use 300v

Any difference will in health or running will be immeasurable on the 250, it's compression is seriously low. It's a case of use super if you fell better for doing it, don't if you don't. I would use super on a 125 or 200, I'd try both in a 300.

Depends on engine size, the 250 is very low compression and doesn't need super, in compression order it's 250, 300, 200, 125.

Try to find a local radiator repair place, most town's have/had one and they tend to be cheap.

Consider replacing the plates both friction (all thin) and steel and using a proven oil like 300v or nanotrans (or atf but you may find it like an on off switch). It's not cheap but might save you a lot of time, I wasted ages on mine before throwing parts at it which was the only thing that made a significant difference.