totty79

It looks as though several clutch parts are shared with sherco, e.g. updated springs are listed as fitting both. You can get 20% softer springs for a sherco, which might be worth a try. I've gone for the cheaper option and ordered sherco clutch spring retaining washers to try, they're stepped not flat and they are much cheaper than the red top hat ones fitted to some beta's. Edit: the washers aren't a direct fit, they fit the springs but will need drilling out to fit the bolt.

Did you clean out the seal grooves in the calliper? You're right that it may sort itself out when ridden, mine had loads of travel last time I changed seals and it was fine after riding.

Is the outer boot/seal available separately for the 2017 onwards rear master cylinder? I've done a few searches and I can only find the full kit. I've just tore one clumsily fitting a new master cylinder in the dark, the batteries ran out on the flood lights. Expensive mistake if I have to buy a £25 repair kit.

+1 on the omnia. Only downside is they may not fit in your boots, I have to wear them over.

The only time I've ran a tube the valve stem was ripped off it within 30 min. It was an old gas gas 321 that I'd just bought, and I didn't know it had a tube in it when I reduced it to 4psi. The cheap vee rubber tube tyre might not have helped. The rim was too corroded for the rim tape alone to seal, partly caused by a previous owner with acidic silicone sealant, but it was good enough with a bottle of slime in it which I'd recommended trying instead of a tube.

As a general rule of thumb to aid understanding (which isn't universally true) 125 and 300 bikes are highly tuned serious competition machines, 250s are often in a lower state of tune for beginners, it's not just the 50cc that makes the difference.

Laughable isn't it, suppliers charge us £60 to £100 for a pair of trousers and consider us tight for not wanting to pay even more. Jitsie Omnia are decent, but at £100 I won't be buying a second pair anytime soon.

I've read that the master cylinder has a different bore from 2018, it might be worth a try, I've considered buying one but haven't got around to it. New pedal bush and bearing helps a lot, but not for long, once worn the pedal twists and bends inwards. Not letting the pads get more than half worn helps. As already mentioned getting some heat into it before you need it also helps.

My guess would be that a bit of dirt was blocking the main jet and it no longer is. Can't see the throttle being relevant.

It took me a while to get around to it but I've fitted boyesen power reeds. Unfortunately the original reeds had one petal sitting a couple of mm off the block so I can't provide any useful feedback on the difference they made. It feels like a different bike but that's to be expected. Very stall resistant and responsive from idle, which I wanted, and much stronger mid range.

If there aren't loads of bikes near you then put condition and value first, look for something useable that you won't lose a fortune on if you decide it's not for you. 125 easier to learn on but highly capable if you ring it's neck (and that's what they are made for) very few riders truly outgrow them, they just fancy more torque. 300 even with your experience will slow down your leaning but shouldn't scare the crap out of you. 250 is the bog standard choice, often a lower state of tune than either of the other two so it's not just about cc's. If training for riding a 2 stroke enduro I'd prefer 2 stroke for more comparable characteristics.

It's legal to ride it there, you just have to pre book so that you can prove that's where you were riding to.

What's your reason for moving on to a 250? The difference between the evo 125 and 250 is less than the capacity might make you expect, I can switch between them effortlessly and I'm crap. Where are you located, can you scrounge a go on a few other bikes?

300v or nanotrans, with some going for atf. I use 300v

Any difference will in health or running will be immeasurable on the 250, it's compression is seriously low. It's a case of use super if you fell better for doing it, don't if you don't. I would use super on a 125 or 200, I'd try both in a 300.

Depends on engine size, the 250 is very low compression and doesn't need super, in compression order it's 250, 300, 200, 125.

Try to find a local radiator repair place, most town's have/had one and they tend to be cheap.

Consider replacing the plates both friction (all thin) and steel and using a proven oil like 300v or nanotrans (or atf but you may find it like an on off switch). It's not cheap but might save you a lot of time, I wasted ages on mine before throwing parts at it which was the only thing that made a significant difference.

The gearbox oil has a fairly easy life, changing it that frequently is a waste. On the Beta oil choice is mainly about minimising clutch drag, you may get away with what you've bought or you may need either nanotrans or motul 300v.

There are 3 on eBay

No, but I'm watching this thread with interest. An alternative bearing or bush could maybe be used. The little bearing isn't full width and the seals which are part of it are also ineffective, it needs regreasing regularly, and has side to side pay even when new.

My 2012 is the same. Replacing the bush and bearing reduced it but not for long.

70ml to 5L Clutch drag is an issue on these with many oils, on top of the two recommendations above Motul 300v 5w30 is good. ATF is a bit Marmite. Consider using plastic bolts for the rear mud guard so they break instead of it.

They were fitted as instructed. They only wound out into the wood frame though and the door was weak enough to bend. They are subtle, but if left accessible could be cut with a grinder.

I had a brake in with the locks in the link above, they simply bent the door. You need to prevent that with other devices or maybe by bracing between them. I've used them again on the new door, but into the ground not the frame and with a bar locked down on front of them.