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What people choose to ride shouldn't matter, but making an easy route inaccessible is not a good idea.
If the top 5 score zero tough, it's their choice and they can move up if they want a challenge.
If a typical newcomer can finish on a 125 score with rider and bike in one piece it's ok. If they can't get round many will not come back.
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I've ripped a tube stem off due to a tyre rotating at 4psi, but it was a cheap vee rubber tyre.
I'd just bought the bike and didn't know it had a tube fitted.
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Some degree of compression and distortion means the distance won't be fixed with a different force, can't see it changing by much though, condition of the hydraulics probably makes a bigger difference.
If the parts were easily available I'd give it a try.
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Are lighter springs or different washers easily available from anywhere?
I'm one of those owners that once it's close enough will normally just ride the thing.
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New plates and steels (surflex I think), all plates of the thinner type not two thicker as standard. (On a 2012)
Was spot on but two years later it's starting to get a mild drag.
Haase do a diaphragm clutch but they aren't cheap.
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Wear after 15 days really doesn't sound great.
Not sure about compromising top end with vforce either.
Might try the remaining option, the dual stage boyesen power reeds. Although now I've adjusted to the bike as is I might not bother, but it feels like a cop out after asking for opinions.
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That's also my style of riding.
Out of interest was the jetting change consistent across all bikes? (e.g. 1 step on the pilot) or did you need to go through the full circuit by circuit tunning prices each time?
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Mines a 2012 250, not sure how it compares to other years.
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I like your thinking.
I didn't like the overrun with the flywheel weight either though.
Now pretty much decided to try the reeds then decide which compromise/combo to make.
Still undecided on which ones to go for though.
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Thanks for the replies, but it's hard to tell from the descriptions if I'd like a reed change or not, I might just have to try a set.
What I hoped a reed change would provide is more predictable chugging and stall resistance. Thats the one bit of riding where I liked the flywheel weight. I can deal with it with the clutch, it's not a problem just a preference. A minor increase in liveliness is ok as a trade off but not what I'm seeking.
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I'll take another look at the thread on Vforce KTM65 reeds.
Boyesen look to be cheaper and easier to source though so I'm interested in any experience anyone can share on these, especially a comparison of the two types.
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Do aftermarket reeds have a noticeable effect around idle rpm? Smoothness and stall resistance.
Which are best in this area? Boyesen Power or Carbon Tech? I'd expect the two piece Power reeds to be best for this but don't have experience of either.
I've recently removed a flywheel weight, and find it much better in many ways but less smooth near idle and easier to stall. Not a big issue but if a reed change helps then it seems worth it.
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I have a couple of the shotgun ones, but I've resisted the temptation to test fire them.
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BT alarm remote works through a garage door.
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If you need battery powered try bt alarms. Radio not infra red remote so you can turn off before opening the door, decent battery life, and you can get additional sounders and remotes.
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The height of the Kickstart can be awkward if inflexible especially on uneven ground, but that's hard on the hip not the knee.
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Does it screw into the flywheel itself or are there nuts behind it?
Just wondering if I need to buy a puller or not. Don't want to unscrew it then find I can't ride again until i remove the flywheel to retrieve fixings.
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Couldn't really say who's the best, but I highly recommend Dan Thorpe at Bumpy.
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Not only ride, just preference.
For easy stuff I find a 250 needs more finesse, now you've pointed it out it does feel like having to combine techniques, doesn't feel as natural to me. Hard to describe at the min though as I haven't ridden since early Nov - which is why I still own a 250, not riding enough to justify an upgrade.
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I think the tank shape changes around 2013, my 2012 is different to a mates 2013
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Yes, bought it before I'd ridden a 125, and it was cheap. I'll probably go SS300 or 125 next.
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Personally I get on slightly better with either a lively 125 and loads of revs, or chugging a 300 in higher gears. The middle ground low state of tune as standard typical 250 doesn't suit me as well.
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Use a proxy to make it look like you're in the UK.
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