chewy

Wow Cope that sounds like the voice of experience.. you wouldn't have a fix for the little red spanner light on a Renault traffic staying on..? Renault have advise a motor mechanic mate of mine that I will have to wait untli 36 K miles before it can be turned of by some elaborate combination of pedal actions along with ignition on offs ...arghh.

A most succinct comment Cope

I think I'll have to get one to play with after all this. Nice to see you still trialling mate ..can you remember that time in the SSDT when you overtook me and Gary Marshman coming down off Corryarick pass the highest pass in British isles..getting to Roy Careys support truck having a nice cuppa tea ( we were all on fantics then) and Gary looked up in his typical somerset way and said "yer why's your back mudguard on the tyre" aghh panic I had to ride all way to parc Ferme with sus links hanging... 30 odd miles.. all of trotters burn ..now know as Muirsellich the Pems support guys threw the bits and spanners at me and we still got in on time. I think you'd wiped half a front fork leg of off your shiney new Fantic with an earlier road racing incident...are you still as crazy? or should I ask Sandra? (Remembered name of that pass)

The missus keeps on about getting a twinshock project ..yes I repeat with Monotonous regularity that I'm well over the hill, 40 years past my best before date, etc ,etc, if I spent as much time riding it as I do playing with it many of the problems would go away etc etc.. but all bikes can be improved (improved being a subjective term) but if we don't talk out loud regarding our own individual issues,mods. and results we will all revert over time to riding old bikes. Regards offending Sherco owners club, I bought the Sherco because it is generally well made, of good desighn and it will perform well for me this summer in the climate topography where I'm going. We are planning on average 25 hours a week riding for 12 weeks so I want the bike reliable, comfortable and easy as possible to ride.

Thats the end of that nice little shared interest then

Hi Neo as you may have gathered I'm still trying to get max out of the Dellorto. to clarify the issue over air screw / mixture screw. I know which way to turn the screws on these different carbs but my line of logic with the Dellorto is that with the 35 pilot jet I can't get to adjust total amount of fuel metered by the pilot jet without practically or actually stopping the thing altogether so fit a smaller jet to get into a sensible range of adjustment. Testing on Sunday last was curtailed by one of our chaps falling off and breaking his wrist so we had to get him to hospital...there's always something eh?

What you say is right Cope I have to say if you really want a flat motor fit the two stage reeds with the factory reed stops and retard the timing. At least I got to a point between flat and smooth.I am now confident I am within a reasonable range of parameters to adjust it to suit me on our fuel..which to affects things. Put the stator back to where it doesn't sometimes want to fire out of the exhaust when soft kickstarting (if you know what I mean) incidentally I have now heard of 2 new shercos with kickstart problems..fingers crossed and be gentle then! I also tried out a Mk. 3 top yoke on Sunday... lot of work but now have bar mount bolt holes a full 15mm fwd. of std and 10mm up... the bike fits me without having to rotate the bars as this puts strain on my arms... we put a tape measure over 3 different bikes and my Sherco is still the smallest twixt bar ends and back edge of footrests I.m 1.8 m tall (5ft 11") and I would normally want to have c.950mm measured over the outsides ie front of bar end to rear of footrest I.m running with 945 the gasser was 970 and the Beta was 955 ( all subject to various bar rotatation of course). Also took more damping off the back end and wound up the spring preload a bit , After 6 months of basic troubles which shouldn't be; wheel rim carburation and steering I feel at last that the bike and I might be able to get along together. your help and patience made it happen ..thanks again.

Thanks for that bigfoot ; I'm already on with it. Got a few camera setting questions for you when in Scotland, nothing yo won't laugh about regarding simplicity.. I think I will be leaving HD alone for a while just going to get used to using it from capture to publish.

Real bit of passion and interest here but we must remember that this is a busness,, it happens because it puts products in front of us. I would think the promters will be dlighted to find some public feedback on forums, but lets not start fighting amonst ourselves.

De sidestand adies sing this song Doodah doodah

I wish somebody had told BVM that they fitted a 35 pilot jet ( I understand they leave factory with a 30 and 122 main) and said it was as reccomended by MRS... in the meantime I've been through a lot of trial and error to get back to buyimg a 33 pilot which with Boyensons fitted is the smoothest it has run to date.

dooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhh

you tell me;...They are all same but diferent?. I could make it pink by turning mixture screw 1/2 turn from right in but then it was hunting anyway and I could stop it by putting screw all the way in, it did say in the fitting blurb that the reeds would make it run richer on main jet and leaner on the pilot jet, it is cleaner/smoother at the bottom end but my feeling is to go a bit smaller and get more adjustment.

I wanted to say that but am too nice ha ha... you're right though

Am I that out of touch Cope coming to SSDT? good news... Just a bit of feedback for you Cope; fitted Boyenson 665 reeds today to my ST 250.. Using std/Sherco stop plates,result very noticable I can get better control of airscrew/bottom end running and am nearly happy with it.. It will now tickover at slower revs than one would want to ride it at)... still a big bang/lump occasionally using 35 pilot jet and 1 .25 turns out of mixture screw or it leans out and hunts. TRied messing with the timing by tiny increment either way and ended up back where I started . Only other side effect is the reeds sound like tappets on a BSA....most encouraged and gratefull for the advice so far. Let you know if smaller pilot jet and more air smooths it out.

If it kicks over without the plug but is solid with it.. it must be either the plug fouling the piston or massive compression. will it not move foreward or back at all. how about putting the plug part in until it locks up ..i dont mean trying to start it just to physically turn it over whilst trying to feel any mechanical connection..I mean it is the right plug isn't it? you got your gudgeon pin circlips in? and piston rings fitted right?.. you wouldn't have got the barrel on if the rings wern't in place, is it possible to fit the piston backwards.. you don't want the ring stop pegs /ring ends running over any ports.

If you show me three wires its likely you'll get a fire break out but as no body else is trying to be of help.. I found with the Evo that the pins on the bulb and the connection to them was the weakest link ,it may be that the two pin coonector under the seat is common feed & earth for the back light. good luck

Getting the fuel in with a funnel needs a lot of hands I found a fizzy drink bottle (Badiot french sparkling water) is petrol proof and screws into the tank thread. I did hear that you need to check the clearance of the back brake fluid resevoir (good cleareance from the silencer) else it can melt....and this is from memory of a mates bike the rad is secured by a cable tie ...the clearance of the bottom yoke to it is zero so don't tie it too tight. I made some top hats to move the rad back 5mm on my 2011 thus overcoming the problem...touch wood.

I was in same "boat" as you and have gone with the contour 1080... for me it set up easy but the editing extra is crap .I'm on the lookout for simple & cheap editing software now. general purchasing conclusion was go pro is better picture quality but Contour mounting is best (I had visions of not ducking low enough under a branch or similar and wiping the go pro off the top without knowing it. Uploading is tedious for HD stuff .I've decided to only use the 720 resolution untill server bandwiths etc get better. hope this helps

You're all right.... its this retirement thing as cope said before ."just got to fiddle" I am now trying to order 24 mmm oko with following innards DATA as supplied by Neo (current settings....M:112, P:138, and JJH needle (middle clip) then slapped it on there using the slide (and JJH) from the Keihin, which went straight in) I assume that the general concencus of opinion is that following Bernouli and his equation (to get same amount of fluid through a smaller apeture it will have to flow faster, I'm not sure if gas/air mix counts as a fluid?) we go with smaller bore and the metering (throttle adjustment) is more profound/noticed by the engine. Re houseapes comments yes you're right fancied a change and/but( great grammar that) I am now overbiked/finding the Sherco a handfull and have to live with it until depreciation "hit" is "normal" unless I can get to ride it properly in which case it will last a damm site longer than the Evo and be better value for money. Yes I like the Evo.... Still got one but they have thier foibles also. If anybody can suggest what "spare" jets to order at the same time to give me a bit of adjustment for fuel /altitude variations ( fiddling is a way of life.. I can't help it I spent 45 years as a mechanical engineer). I.d be gratefull and able to add my info from experiences to the "databank" herein. Thanks guys for keeping me on the straight and narrow, will keep you posted .

Neo I searched for data for starting point re jets/needle etc (for OKO 24mm) and just spent 10 minutes composing a nice PM to you asking if you have any?. Your mailbox must be chocca bloc full, I'm going to try 1) carb as you suggest but prefer to tell the guy what I want. 2) Boyenson Reeds if that gives me little change 3) base gaskets. These three options are exactly in decending order of cost but I have come to conclude that PBHL carb is like several of the bits on my bike a cost compromise by Sherco and they are together cheaper than re "inventing" the exhaust system . Big thanks to all contributions. Just out of interest: I've been comparing our two bikes today, measured and compared every physical dimension including fork rake distances to footrests from bars rear wheel spindle, wheelbase etc etc last check was the bathroon scales which fully dispels any doubts folk have about weight distribution.. The Sherco is exactly the same as the Evo with rider on board, front and back (just the bike) within a kilo etc etc (All this is after/with my top yoke & shims which puts bar mounts 10mm fwd. and 10mm up). 2 degrees shallower rake angle (sherco 68 deg. Evo 66 deg) is only signifigant difference ..if I change that it will shorten wheelbase ( 1 degree reduces trail by c.25mm) , the only way to change this would involve a non reversable cut and shut of the frame in order to retain wheelbase etc so thats not going to happen to my bike although I did read somewhere that A Bert Cabastany was testing frame mods to balance the bike up. ( I take that back ..I could remake top and bottom yokes to steepen fork angle and keep wheelbase and get more lock ..drew it up this am)

OK (o) OK (o) OKO

Retarded it as much as I dare, think I've got the carburation compromise as best as possible but yes you and Copemech have reccomended Boyenson reeds I'll give Mike a call but I wanted to check out other folks experience and thoughts on the sea change in Beta running? and whether it was all simply down to the exhaust or did they rebalance the flywheels and or other mods to get it so much smoother?.

231

Having bought a new 250 ST I have found it quite tricky to ride it to best of my ability. The bike is sound with some really good desighn innovations and it is generally very well put together so this is not a critique but a search for enlightenment and improvement (for me). I've been around long enough to know what I want from a bike and am well aware that I could chop this bike in for something I can manage but I'm stubborn!. The main thing I want to achieve with this bike/motor is to get it smoother, I have been through the whole gamut of carburation ,timing twistgrips reed block spacer, I've not yet thickened up the base gasket which is the next simplest/cheapest option to try. However I was pondering how to describe what I want and recalled moving from a rev 3 Beta to an Evo and the noticably smoothed out running describes exactly what I'm looking for.... I am linking this with the revised exhaust they fitted as being the main reason for this improvement. Before going down the road of fabricating a bigger volume/expansionbox which is a serious project to undertake I thought it worth seeing if anybody else has had similar thoughts or even made similar. Whilst asking questions;... titanium is obvious material choice for performance/weight but is there any spec of titanium that can be welded without a full inert atmosphere? i.e with a shrouded tig or mig system. As I would want to keep the original frontpipe to revert to, the whole front pipe can be redisigned and maybe Aluminium would be good for a prototype. Any ideas