chewy

Have fun... ps try standing more on your legs, dont lean into turns look ahead keep your shoulders and toes pointing to where you want to be going keep your outside of turn elbow bent.etc etc etc you will get it all here good luck and remember that bike is a magnet for thieves so be discreet about riding it near where you keep it.

Yes its all about build quality eh? I dont think it rains where they are made. I have bought loads of new bikes in last 15 years (me and Janet my partner ride a lot) and this bike ..(to be fair)is second only to the Mont 4rt's for not shaking itself to pieces but it has been 6 months of toil to get it to ride reasonably ( I'ive only been doing it for 45 years so I clearly have little ideal of what is required of a bike) elementary things such as carburation ignition timing tyres staying on rim and of course handling/steering... think I have now resolved all these issues with my limited experience and resouces. My excuse for letting it go rusty where bare metal is exposed on the frame is that I havn't had the time (or the love of it) to deal with this relatively minor issue.

nice one they are all crappy to this day. Reckon you're going to have a lot of Swarf by the time you've finshed. Havn't heard or seen anything similar ..looks like the job is all yours.

too late (said the bishop to the actress) Its 30mm from outside of brake disc to very highest point of rim see photos https://picasaweb.google.com/102454155493315266755/RemovableStorage?authkey=Gv1sRgCJmK6Jr_19y0vAE# hope this works

Ill eat ny dinner and go and do it , expect you want to get on.

You pays your money and you takes your pick, personally I always buy the cheapest I can find because they ALL leak, PS how do prices for stuff e.g rear tyres compare to ours in UK.

If you want I can whip my front wheel out (2011ST250) and put a straight edge across the brake disc to measure an offset to the rim (say at the biggest diameter) let me know... CW

see charity auction post

hells fire!!!!!!!!!! feel for you

Thats ashame ; it seems that Michelin & IRC have a bit of a cartel going, they certainly have tight control of distribution. Are there any remoulders out there I could probably make the tool/mould, that would sort the prices out a bit.

Found this on a trials site thought it worth sharing just for the music, nice to find a trials school that really takes entry level riders. http://www.planetetrial.com/articles.php?lng=fr&pg=21194

What are the graphs showing? Why can't the maps be made nore different at revs where mere mortals(most of us) would find a benifit? What does 10,000 RPM on a trials bike sound like? (i'm waiting for som wag to say....BANG)

That registration scheme seems good to me, only time you may get a problem is the "homologation" proof when /if you want to tax it.

What about trick bits they make vacuum formed covers for trials bikes.

I wonder if recovering stolen property would be a good business idea in our new big society. In my (like other contributors first hand) experience the police are not interested, even if you find it yourself you have to proove beyond doubt that the property is yours. I can see no reason why all bikes shouldn't be registered with tha DVLA but then I expect the civil service make such a meal of it that the cost would be prohibitive to many.Since being in a position to buy new bikes I have insured and registered them; the key cost there which puts many off is the cost of insurance in order to pay the road tax. Is there a system in place to simply register your bike, I think it's true to say that we in UK are unique in so much as we are not required by law to register "field" bikes. it's why we get our bikes a bit cheaper (non homolugated spec.).having wandered through this problem our situation seems to be terribly british.

not sure about foreward or back , it clearly says on mine map1 or map2. I wonder actually if this is a bit of a misnomer; some say it is just a switch to select pick up for "spark timing" it would be good to know if it is actually a complete timing map as I agree with you why if this opportunity of technology is available is there so little noticable difference between the two "maps".

Got it from Martin Rathmell ; position 2 is soft

Typical problem with language ; I mailed my Andorran mate who came back with all the info we already have but no confirmation of section severity, I will try again all I can tell you is that we rode several on the S3 route and they arn't too bad generally I would sayu S

I rode the course whilst on hols last year ; very interesting interzone,we went with an Andorran friend for a days ride it was excellent we tried a few of the zones, lots of rocks don't know what time of year trial is but heat and altitude are tiring. I'll send a link of your question and see what comes back. Just found this on you tube Also regs out 1st march http://www.motoclubarinsal.com/index.php?lang=english

I thought the Scottish and the French were allies against the bloody English or am I a couple of hundres years out of date?

Maybe it would be good to ask yourself before EVERY section do I WANT this .. you have to want to clean it

All the above explain the mechanics of your question, sag being the amount the bike sttles under its own weight, after that it's down to personal taste the main thing for me is balance between front and rear I just push bike at its lowest point (front of seat rear of tank area) by hand and try to get it to move same front and back and as soft as possible without bottoming under my weight, I dont like too much rebound damping ,ie recovering from compression, provided its not a pogo stick its ok for me. Keep on taking opinions and by targeted trial and error you'll get what suits you. As a PS youre best suspension remains to be your own legs;; modern bike riders can remind themselves of this by riding a twinshock on them its no legs no good ride.

50 to 1 would actually make the air to petrol ratio weak (nfinitesmally), two strokes have two compessions , one under the piston and one abve it, if it was running too hot the plug wouldn't be sooty nor the front exhaust pipe, weld repair is feasable but essential no oil to get into the weld puddle, it seems to me that all trials bikes made today are desighned to be light ( and made to a price!) the "cost" of this is going to be more faliures of components sooner than we would expect/hope for. Does it ever kick back ..it may be a bit retarded which would dum it down but make it run hotter and burn fuel less efficiently. Also our opionions from here are based on our fuel "quality" experience it is quite probably very different in China. I'm sure this will stimulate some discussion of your problem ...good luck

Why not PM splatshop with this photo ...

I havn't the details but England (ACU reg) is a registration fee and pay as you go whereas Scotland SACU is pay up front just for interest France FFM licence last year wes 220 euros. I know its up to us consumers to keep on moaning but when you compare insurance cost to a new pair of riding trousers advertising somebody elses stuff there's no comparison.