chewy

could it be centre gasket..dodgy casting/machining crank halfs, does it suck and blow,

I bet he's gonna be looking for your lines and really gratefull for any rotovating you do for him

Thanks for that mate , I ended up taking back wheel out, dropping the links and the rear bottom shock mount/link bolt, just as well really as it all benifited from a clean up and greasing. I'm much happier with the damping as it is, had to take a flyer on what the screw did; its in for less damping, it was from new all way out, wound the spring up about 3mm also ( I'm 13.5 stone) whole bike feels more balanced now.

Hey cope do you have any experience of the 2011 ? hanbook says it can be agjusted without removing the shock, thats fine if you can find/see/get to the screw, is there a "trick" way in to it? do you have to remove tank and or silencer?

I agree and I did but this is cleare to see, My theory is that the tyre stays on untill it rolls over a rock or such at this point on the rim at which point it "derails" whatever I put all three tyres on different bikes/wheels and they have stayed on even at 2.5 PSI, I am running a "spare" wheel at moment with one of the IRC's and ithas stayed up and on for two events now.

Is this the place to ask a dumb quuestion? having paid thousands of

Thanks all brilliant response I've sent the Clake link on and it may save me a lot of work if Lee could Fwd details of this guy I have a mate who will be at Exmoor trial perhaps between us all we can help the guy out. Thanks again

I have been asked to make a adouble control lever , clutch & front brake for a guy (friend of a friend in France) who rides trials with only one hand. As far as I can tell he has a hook on his right arm and uses left hand for throttle clutch and front brake, His problem is that having two standard hydraulic lever mounts makes it difficult to reach one or the other lever. My first thoughts are to make a single resevoir with double cylinder and lever mounts using standard trials master cylinder parts and levers as much as possible (he must crash a fair bit and breakages/repairs for a unique part have to be simplified. I think he uses the index finger for clutch and second (next) finger for F brake, I am estimating c.35 degrees (vieved from end on) between the piston ctrs would be good. However I thought it might first be a good idea to ask if anyone else has already made/found a solution to this "problem". I really want to help the guy but I don't want to spend weeks making something that may already be available if anybody can help it would be much appreciated.

That would be me;.. top yokes I made are for 2011 ST don't knoe if they are samectrs etc for fork legs & spindle. I used to make bar clamps for both Fatbar & 7/8" bars I have a few (I think lying about the workshop) current bolt ctrs are 38 mm old ones (that I have are 40 ctrs) ,if I have and you pay postage I 'll send em over, let me know.

yea they're 8 mm slots for m8 (actual 7.9) ,works fine out to test at a nadgery trial tomorrow, bike feels much better for me on the drive, sprocket guard has been really trick as i want it to be a "sacrificial" component add to that the space and mounting options it's been interesting. All Best CW

Will this work http://www.trialscontrol.co.uk/page5.htm thats wher I put em guesse you could copy and paste it into google..bloody computer stuff.

I wish I could drive these ruddy computers got a couple of pics cant understand /work out how to put em on here, will put em on my site. Thought of spending the

I.ve just made one to go on my 2011 from white nylon, in the hope that If I get a drailment/jam up the nylon will mangle up absorb the energy etc. without ripping the mounting bolts out of the casing, maybe motre intrestingly I.ve just made an adjustable top yoke so that I can move bars foreward and or up to where I find them best for me. I found (I.m 5ft 11") 8mmm fwd and 10mm up made the bike steer and handle better for me, I.ll put a piccie on my website when they (only 2 at moment exist) get back from plating shop ,,, can't decide wether to stay with black or take bottom yoke as well and go all gold...life is so difficult eh?

I.ve just been Drawing up a Sherco top yoke (with adjustable bar clamp positions) and its the same as Montesa 4rt 175mm ctrs

Is anybody still following this thread? I 've just got around to having a look at this "job" drew up basic 2d profile and machined it from a scrap of whit nylon just to get "in the parish" it occured to me that as the prime function of a chain guard her is to absorb the energy of a flailing chain that it might be a good idea to make it from nylon ,it's light looks good on 2011 model and most impotantly would soak up the energy better than ally particularly as all we have to mount it are the 2 bolts holding the clutch master cylinder on. I don't want to be negative about this job but it would serve little purpose if the chain whaked this and ended up bending or breaking out the bolts from the casing. I wonder if and what other folk think of making it from white (I'm sure colours are available) nylon instead of ally.

Happy memories it was during the Manx one year when a mate of mine coined a good phrase still applicable today; we were all pushing and shoving to get through last sections , I recall them being on rocks with the tide coming in, a guy arrived and promptly just went to front of the que , my mate got of his bike went up to him and said the immprtal words see that (pointing to the back of the queue) the guy grunted and mate quickly followed up with its the back of the F ing queue get there... never saw anybody move so fast. But yes fab place to ride, I don't know if it is still same arrangement the trial is weekend between practicing and racing (Manx not TT) so we always got to see a bit of RR action and all king of bikes on Douglas parade, oh and the kippers.... anyway like all places local knowledge is most important

Don't know if its allowed but I am making (slowly) a little website www.trialscontrol.co.uk and yes I found springs which are working well, thought I should give them a few more hours running to settle down but makes big difference to lever action. problem is getting time to ride as I have a dodgy back wheel rim on my 2011 st 250. it is one hell of a job to get this sorted ( I.ve been complaining for 3 months) for some reason.

Best to dry them out along with the rest of the bike straight after washing, It wouldn't be anything complicated like hygroscopic brake fluid ..naaaaaaaaaaa

We just been through this tedious exercise again CVD bristol have been best for last few years, after hours of searching we found this to be true.

I can toolpath * machine * anodise colours if you wanted to send me a DXF file I'll get around to drawing one soon after Footrests ,levers , brake pedal should keep me busy until holiday time!

I only did it 9 times ,i never used an auxilliary tank, I never carried, I never ran out, just wouldn't want to advise the guy to carry.

No is the short answer. Carrying an extra kilo on your back will mess you up just as it affect the handling..best get used to it. If you were to get caught carrying I think it means exclusion. Not sure how these auxilliary tanks work but if it empties first or with the main tank you wouldn't take long to burn it off.

I Was gonna say that! From a very hazy memory we used to think it smoothed the power delivery, i.e just took the punch out of the bottom end without chocking it when revving

Only if you do one at a time.. I thought your title was going to be about some country & western lady singer!

Thanks guys a most informative discussion, I think I'll try Copemechs bigger pilot jet and needle drop first, I've retarded it by another tad as it's going to be wet tomorrow, I think it's a smooth as I can get it with current "hardware" it just seems to be uncomfortable ticking over having stalled in three sections last week it's a bit of a downer.