chewy

Have we reached any conclusions? I'm ready to buy/try an OKO on my 2011 250 Sherco as (only intuitivly) it seems that the carburation isn't as good as it could be with th Dellorto PHBL26BS, I have followed with interest many discussions regarding Sherco carburation and fuel specifications. My bike is running as good as I can get it but it wants to stall too easily /drinks fuel and is not consitent on the bottom end of rev range either lumpy tickover (for Thedbf hard bangs instead of smooth might be a way to describe it) or dies from lack of fuel. For those of us who like to ride with tyre "hooked up",just on lean side gives snoother feel of whats going on regards grip; this is my problem when I'm looking for close control of throttle it is either too harsh or stalls too easily. Notwithstanding being fed up with paying good money for a series of problems I (like many I imagine) need to sort it out. In fairness to the bike when I go riding in Southern Europe all the sections are dry and invariably require fast response..rocky steps etc. as would the going used to develop these bikes be; the bike out of the box is idea for that. Could Neo or Copemech be persuaded to tell us/me the exact OKO setup (it would get me in the ball park as we are bound to have differentr fuel and climate conditions.

You only live once, having done it 9 times and now observed similar number It is a trial that will grab you. Have you thought about maybe trying the Aveyron 7 day trial this coming august (google moto club 12) Its not as tough as the SSDT but you have similar daily routines.

Thanks again I wonder where we'd be without you Copemech, I have a deadline to meet on a batch of footpegs, after that I'll whip cover off and take a spring to my man and ask for 20% lighter same physical sizes (hopefully he will give a spec during the conversation. Its time to change oil so perhaps i'll try springs first, then oil (as this bike has the best clutch disengagment I have had on a bike for several years and don't want to compromise that) nothing happens fast on a bike at my age so I don't anticipate big hanfull/slip problems if I lighten the springs. Carb is a Dellorto pbh26BS. Have a mate who sells OKO carbs which may be way to go.

Finally finished a trial on my 2011 250 (due to tyre/rim problem) Along with another guy riding today I stalled it several times, I find the clutch action very quick (on /off) and am looking for ways to make it more progressive, I changed the springs on my last bike (200 Beta)for c.80% of rate/pressure this worked well for me with no sign of slip etc. I think its worth a try with the Sherco but it is always wise to look for the experience of others... any thoughts, experiences or ideas? Incidentally I shimmed the handlebars up by 6mm (it may be all in the mind) but it was better for me today. I'm still not convinced about the carburation it's unreliable/ at least inconsistent at the bottom end (it's probably more white gunge from the tank) this may have been a contributary factor to the stalling.

Here Here it's a pity that the manufacturers cant seem to make these parts properly in the first place, probably spending all thier money on big trucks and world round.

Thanks to all for the sensible (and sensitive there's no fool like an old fool!) comments As Neo says It is really no critiscm of the bike it's simply making it work better for me. I will check out carb specs (it was new in October). My overiding problem at the moment is getting a tyre with any flex in it to stay on the rim (I have yet to finish an event with this bike using my hitherto favoured IRC rear), Ran it last week on the original Michelin and came up with these finding grip issues, the Michelin hhignlighted the motor /feel issue. (for me the Michelin in our typical going gives far less feel and practically no warning of impending going backwards feeling!) Without a consistent "grip datum/reference" I'll be floundering about trying to ghet the motor to suit me so today the first job is to "confront " my dealer with it's either the tyre you sold me or the rim you sold me or it's a bit of both ( it will have to be a rhetorical question which is why I've been trying to gather info/data on what and how to measure wheel/tyre relationship) but I'm rapidly losing faith just before doing that I 'll whip the tyre off again and measure the circumfrence of the "seating for the tyre" as this is what i can also measure easily on the tyres;... why does one have to go through all this crap is another question that keeps coming to mind. Timp I'm sure we've spoken since stopping riding the SSDT I.ve been observing the last 10 years (we're the tent people as most riders refer to us! just 'cause we take a tent to keep out of the weather, not cause were gypos or anything like that) so this year I'll make a point of speaking. Thanks to all ; the info won't be wasted.

I am finding my 2011 250 Sherco quite frustrating to ride, Having been through the white gunge in the carb episode(s), the cold weather running and retarding it to calm it down and keep it running in a forward direction, slow action throttle it seems (is it possible to say this?)too responsive.Admittedly I'm getting on and can't move or react as quick as I used to but the motor stalls easily and wants to go or stop and it's not easy to find that bit in between whwere the grip is. Discussing this with a long time riding mate (between us we have 70 years of competition experience) we are thinking it may be good to lower both primary and secondary compressions normal method is spacer after the reed block and head spacer or thicker base gaskets. Has anybody else been down this "road" with these bikes, I can't retard it any more as any more wouldn't be healthy for the motor. I can't get 40 years younger, I can't change bike for at least a 12 months probably by then it will be loose enough to forgive me a bit more frequently.

I bought a 2011 last October and have been struggling with it ever since, it has many of the dodgy bits sorted from thier experiences with the first build (2010) of this bike. Generally I like the design but it still needs a few things doing to make it suitable for mere mortals to master it. It is so far as I can tell the least expensive of all the marques available, it is let down by a few cheap components but it hasn't shook itself to pieces as some of the new bikes I have bought in the last few years have. At this point in time it is unlikely I will buy another simply because it is not easy (for me)to ride.

Not a helpfull comment but; can't help but notice where it has broken and the wear/use (from boot heels?). Why not splint it up either inside or out maybe not too pretty but effective.

Ca va Matt? va bien? now I have a id on here to you, trust all is well I have some new products ..just finished filing the patent will update website tonight if I get time.

Couldn't resist ; just filed patent aplication for new idea regarding footrests (i.ve been making wide footpegs for 20 years) not updated website yet as I have to go to workshop and make a load orders awaiting. Of course I have to point out that Raptors are great but expensive and I have seen first hand broken frame where footrest has failed to absorb an impact. At least there are loads of options for you to choose from. good luck

Ralph Rackstraw is on heresomewhere NZ Ralphy maybe ..he will put you straight.

Tapping drill for M6 is 5.3 so you should have no problems, other thought and more lasting solution would be to helicoil them trouble with that is you need the tap and helicoil and tool to wind it in.

Just an extra thought ; the guy who runs the event Joel Corroy (JCM fame) speaks good english, Craig Mowlam ( 2 shock Yamaha stuff has a site) and knows him or suitable contactsif you get stuck I can try to find an adress for Craig who may be able to make contacts for you .

leaving yourself open for some ribbing with that one; don'y know about engine no. but frame no is usually up by the headstock on the right.

Yep did it last year, purely by chance I turned up to watch a mate , somebody else offered a bike , sighned on no problem, nice people nice ride around sensible sections, parking if you're camping only has a small level area (if you have time etc get in early) the rest is a bit cambered and was soft last year, Water was a bit short also, nearest shop c.3 k south. I wouldn't reccomend following satnav for last twenty miles it's much quicker sticking to big/main roads but the countryside is nice! I spect there will be a few other brits there. Just to be a bore we are doing 3 days of Ardeche ,4 days of Geuret, 3 days of Haute Vosges, and just to round it off 7 (yes seven) days of Aveyron this summer. Maybe bump into you en France hope this helps.

Just an observation which surprised me; when I traded my one year old bike at dealers for new, the price I got was just

hate to be a cynic but it may have been painted to disguise its origin.

Are you coming to our Kingswood Centre trial next Sunday? All friendly folk it's a left turn (sighned with castrol flag) off road to Wickwar from Chipping Sodbury. We'll even buy you a pint if you observe.

Thanks all for your comments, all helpfull I can flash a tape measure or even put wheels up on a machine tool to measure accuratly which I think I will have to do but it still remains to find out what it should be and then I have a rock solid warranty complaint backed up by facts (what should the rim nomenclature be?) rather than comparisons /hearsay etc. etc. Put a Michelin on last night and wonder of wonders it stayed up all day today (riding same stuff as yesterday where the IRC came off) at 3PSI (sidewalls are stiff as hell even at that low pressure). I was keeping the Michelin for summer riding in hot rocky conditions, here at home, cold/ mud /roots the performance of the IRC (if it ever stayed on the rim) is far more suited to the going. The jury is out at the moment ;.. is it the tyre or the rim undersize, I have to say the Michelin went on all the way by hand /Knee until the last 4 inches and it popped out dry with no lubrication, gap filler "mousse/ hoop which I have been using since tubeless tyres came into get them to initially seal prior to popping em out onto the rim. As a guy who has been buying 2 new bikes every year for the last 15 years (I WAS in the money) I have grown used to the variations in attitude regarding warranty complaints; I feel there@s a problem with this rim but I also know I have to have incontrovertable evidence to back it up. Keep you posted.

Tyre deflation problems ; I have been through a whole gamut of solutions regarding tubeless tyre going down and poping of the rim.Any solutions other than new rim tape /how to fit it etc etc.... been there done it however during this voyage of (re) discovery) i am finding with my rim that I can walk both an IRC and a Michilin onto the rim with no levers and get them to pop out to seal the beads with no gadjets tricks or anhything just a compressor , valve out and away it goes, The down side of this is that the tyres will roll straight off just as easily which led me to wonder if the rim is a bit on the small size (diameter) has any one experienced similar ? has anyone any information regarding what size rim should be and where measured from and what tolerances would the tyre people guarantee their tyres to fit properly? . Long question but this problem persists.

What on a Beamish? best advice as you are near go and watch Steve Saunders the master of hills, I think his secret is not to anticipate grip, tis all in the legs

Snap suryey suggest that we will accept price increases then. I'd still be interested to know how new bike sales are going though. Very much liked scoobydoo's reply... excellent. My "problem" is that my missus rides as well so it's all doubled for me, still can't imagine (not that i'm interested in even thinking about other sports) a better sport to be doing though.

Remember that the key is only there to position/time the flywheel to the crankshaft. It is the Taper that does the work, is it damaged, you can check it by applying engineers blue or even a bit of marker pen (put it on one surface leave the key out offer the other part up and rotate it .. remove second part and look for "witness marks; where the ink has been removed), in an ideal situation you want all of it evenly rubbed off. I have had to lap these tapers before after damage/bruising due to key shears and resulting "chew up" , it is a job for someone with experience really but to check the taper is mating isn't going to do any harm. worth checking !

Rather than present this as a moaning whinging old git it ocurred to me to seek a concensus regarding what we are prepapared to pay for our passion. This thought was "sparked" off by realising that we are now in the age of paying