rogerroger

I never got the original forks to work properly - changed them for TLM250 forks and TLR250 yokes from Ellastone Offroad (had to make a new stering stem, but otherwise an easy swap). This has transformed the front end - better steering (less offset angle on the yokes) and much better fork action. Apart from that it is standard, and works well. Interesting bikes! Cheers Roger

I agree completely - being able to re-align the bike means the line through the section is no longer important, only the line through the next obstacle needs to be considered. One skill replaces another! The land argument (against no-stop) is spurious - no stop is harder to ride, so requires easier sections, reducing the need for large obstacles and giving the setter more weapons for taking marks.

It is not so much the stopping but the endless repositioning of the bike in a section that makes stop-allowed trials boring to watch (in my opinion!). Stop-allowed rules allow one skill (sideways hop) to replace a whole set of other (more interesting) skills. A skillfull no-stop ride through a tricky section can be a thing of beauty, but watching someone hop left and right before firing up a step is dull. So why not allow stopping but mark a sideways or backwards movement as a fail? This would surely be easier to observe consistently, and would make the course plotters job a bit easier. The same people would still win!

Sammy Miller did OK!

Fitted TLR yokes and TLM forks to mine - vast difference to the steering and action! I used the RS200 steering pin (suitably modified to fit the bottom yoke). Wheel went into the forks with no modification. TLM forks are slightly shorter than the originals, but not enough to make any difference. Roger

But where's the fun in that?!!

Hi Charlie When I did this a few years ago, I made 3 pillars out of alloy, threaded at one end, and mounted them in roughly the right place by drilling, tapping and spot-facing the crankcase. I then mounted the pillars in the crankcase (with loctite) and machined their top faces to a suitable height with an end mill. I then clocked the crankshaft bearing housing to the rotary table axis and machined a register about 3 mm deep in the mounted pillars, of the diameter of the pvl backplate using end mill. This gives you a register that is the right diameter, concentric with the crank and (hopefully) at the right height. Viola! Worked fine. Roger

1. Buy a geniune Honda brake cable 2. Open up the hole in the brake plate by, say, 0.5mm 3. Hold the front brake on hard when tightening the wheel spindle to centralise the brake plate Should make a bit of difference!

Well said, Charlie And well done to OTF - brilliant idea that seems obvious once stated. The best bit is that you get a class with a name that accurately describes the class (always good ) Roger

...lurked an exquisite...

Hi Pete Try wafting a (lit) blowtorch over the item just before painting - paint will stick better (increases the surface energy) Easy does it, though. Roger

Equipe Yohansoff (geddit?) (Nicked from a book called The Racers by Barnaby Williams)

OK, thanks. It's in TMX News as Edensfield Farm - anyone form Peak Classic care to confirm that it is at Eadonsfield? Roger

Anybody got directions or map reference for the Peak Classic trial at Edensfield Farm, Chesterfield on Sunday? No clues on the website. Ta! Roger

Tank is for a Honda RS200T - very rare (especially without dents!)

Here, Here!

"Twinshock" refers to a class of machines, not a number of shock absorbers. TY Monos are not in that class, so don't do it - it is cheating.

I had my stanchions done last year by Philpotts - excellent service, recommended! Roger

Agreed for national trials (the ACU could perhaps tighten up their rules). But surely for club trials, it is up to the membership to decide whether these "specials" should be allowed/banned, and make their views known. IMO Twinshocks are still cheap, given that they don't drop

Thanks to everyone involved in putting this trial on - really enjoyed it!

Hi Fred Biggest difference is between distributor engine with plain timing side main bearing, and side points engine with ball-race timing side main bearing. Changeover happened in 1963, I believe, and the later endine is stronger and to be preferred (especially if you want to take it out to 220 or 250). Square barrels/heads are much later (1967?), and are harder to come by and cost more! All explained in "The Tiger Cub Bible" by Mike Estall. Roger

I think it is the least you could do, in the circumstances.

Hi Charlie It was a while ago, but my plan was to remove the lug by melting the braze (assuming the lug was steel/cast iron, etc). Lug went all mushy when red hot. Wasn't gold, though! Roger

I know mine was made of brass, 'cos i melted it! Had to make another from steel... Roger

Can be done, but might be easier to buy one ready made from Sammy Miller Products. Basic procedure is: Chop hafway between the bends, heat, bend, weld/braze an extra bit in the middle and assemble. If you try it yourself, be careful heating the end with the bit that attaches to the end of the swinging arm - it is made of brass and will melt! Good luck! Roger