rogerroger

Just had my wheels done at Central Wheels (powder coated hubs, new rims and spokes) - Top Job! Recommended.

Brilliant!

Tick-over should be more reliable, so it should manage a slower tick-over speed. A heavier flywheel will not give the engine any more load - once its going it stays going

Item 120312844220.

Some folk spend more than that on a Pre-56 knocker! Bargain.

Did.

Exhaust looks nice, eh h.p? Not sure about the black engine though!

greystone enterprises can supply a standard cub one that fits ok

Martyn Adams of Serco fame used to modify the rear hub by cutting it in half and welding in a spacer so it occupies the full width of the s'arm. You can then build the wheel with the rim offset a bit further away from the chain (got to keep the two halves lined up correctly if you want to stand any chance of re-building the wheel, though). Don't know if the new Serco offers this though. I bought a rear wheel that had been widened to suit an Enfield at Malvern last year - unfortunately, it was too wide for a Miller s'arm so I had to un-modify it a bit . p.s. nice looking cub! (seen pottering at ESTC)

I retired from the B route due to a complete lack of fitness combined with the heat - first trial for a long time. I thought the severity was spot on for a clubman, though. Thanks for your effort!

Check the breather to the petrol tank cap is clear - you might get 15 minutes running before the vac in the tank stopped the petrol coming out

...or you could identify the hardest 5 sections on the easy route and the easiest 5 sections of the hard route and call that the sportsmans route (I believe a number of clubs do this - Cotswold 90 used to)

Some way if indicating how hard a trial is would be useful to the new-comer. I failed to finish my first trial - I only later found that Evesham Club trials tended to be on the hard side! The best trials have a good mix of sections - I don't mind struggling on a third of the sections if I can clean a third and safely ride the other third. Trouble is that one man's five is another man's clean. Having said that, the most enjoyable trials are the ones that are a "trial"

I had a 270 pinky with shortened inlet tract a few years ago and it was loverly - dead soft and sweet. I never rode a standard one though - maybe they are too! It had been modified when I bought it - I believe it had a YZ piston in it. Perhaps they are easier to get hold of than a standard TY piston (or it had run out of oversizes...) Good luck, anyway

I was arguing for consistency based on consent and the needs of the observers, not for one method or the other. If we don't require consistency, then forget the whole thing.

Given the interest that this thread has generated, could we have a poll - full no stop v anthing goes? It might be a bit easier than marking up a whole trial no-stop and seeing how many turn up! If we then had some consensus, maybe a concerted campaign for some consistency (and leadership) from the ACU... This has to be one of the most important issues in trials today, as it affects how attractive it is to newcomers and (most importantly) to observers. Perhaps they should be given the casting vote?

Excuse my ignorance, but what is bushed (apart from having a bush shoved somewhere )? RR

If you haven't already, change the primary drive sprocket for a small one (can't remember how many teeth) available from Serco, Sammy Miller etc - they are made by Talon and will help with the trickling round trees.

I always thought Kinlet was a cracking venue - streams, climbs and mud - what more do you want?

I think heavyweight forks were fitted to everything at one point, from 3TAs to Bonnevilles. But I could be wrong.

Heavyweight forks have stanchions that are 33mm diameter and are fairly useless for trials (I have found) I fitted internals from Fantic 200 forks as follows: 1. Turn the outer tubes down to the internal diameter of the heavyweight fork's outer tube internal diameter (cannot remenber what it is - 1.25" or so) so that that they are a push fit into the originals 2. Part off at the bottom end then the top end to be left with something that looks like it could be passed from runner to runner in a relay race 3. Smear with locktite and insert (tricky this as you only get one go - you will never get it out again ) 4. Buy some 42x35mm (I think) oil seals 5. Turn the seal holders to accept these (this depends on the type of seal holder - later ones are bigger I think) 6. Bore the damper rod bolt hole in the bottom of the original outer tube to accept the 8mm bolt of the fantic forks 7. Bore the bottom yoke to 35mm to accept 35mm stanchions 8. Bore the top yoke to 35mm, but not all the way through - leave 1/8th of an inch to provide a shoulder to pull the stanchion up against via the top nut. The stanchion should be a heavy push fit into the top yoke to keep things stiff 9. Assemble and enjoy! An alternative is to use the seal holder part of the Fantic outer tube to hold the seals by leaving it attached during step 2 so that when fitted, it sticks out of the original outer tube. This is easier, but doesn't look as original. If you get hold of a set of suitable forks, I belive Martin Adams at Serco will do the mods for you (for a small fee and a slight delay - he is usually very busy!)

Mornin' Been reading the forum for a while so its time to join in Got 2 cubs and a TLR, and I am rubbish at trials.

Try Earl Shilton Trials Club (www.estc.co.uk) - they rent land from Calor that is open for practice to club members most weekends. They hold trials about once per month with three routes - try the white route first! Good luck