jonnyc21

In the US you can get them from Stu at http://jackscycles.com/OnlineStore.html, or http://lewisportusa.com/. There are a few other places but I would try them first as they have them listed, where others could order them Jacks or LewisportUSA might have them in stock. In the UK I would check https://jbanyeres.com/en/ first or maybe http://handdracing.com/. but not really sure if they have them as I am in the US and have only ordered a few custom bits from both.

I would recommend a set of high bend bars instead of risers if possible especially on a Montesa with the position of the bar clamps. Got a ride on an 05 4RT with a set of high bars and it was way nicer than the Sherco I took a spin on with risers.. Just my personal recommendation.

I have had great luck in the revers bleed for clutch as indicated by leeanthonycook If in question go from the bottom up...

I believe I know part of why my 300 seems so much more like my 07... it has a black throttle tube. After finding this out when doing some adjustments last night I seem to remember reading a post about it someplace... (might even be this thread) So not sure who else has switched it to a fast(white) tube but I had a spare so will give a ride report soon on how it changes things.

Ya checked my 07 this morning and have one... though so. Good find "on it".

I would agree with the Donlop 803GP recommendation. It isn't the best tire but its very close and a much better price for what you get. Oh and when I say very close we are talking like Bou and Raga close.

I would expect a short clear tube that is plugged or stoppered in some way. This is used to let you know if your getting oil or water in the air box as well as to drain it out if you do. However, if it doesn't have the tube your pulling in dirty air from it and I would cap it off with something and check it every time you clean your air filter if you can't find a clear tube that would work.

Oh and when my wife's Gas Gas 125 was getting harder to start I changed the spark plug and a re-jet fixed it. Good luck.

Might get better response down in the bike section under Gas Gas? http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/forum/7-gas-gas/

I would go to a club event and see how many bikes you can get a ride on. Would tell you lot more about what bike to get than anything else. good luck.

One other thing I have found is that if you do shut off fully if your quick, or know you need to, you can some times keep or regain the control by pulling the clutch in. I try to not shut off of course but I have found some times I just have trouble so will pull the clutch if needed in a case like that.

It should say on the top of the master cylinder cap unless it was replaced by an after market one. I would expect DOT 4 as the only other option was some of the Gas Gas bikes with a green cap that took mineral oil.

The closest I have seen to the Hebo baggy I would be willing to get is the "up and over trials pants". Inside the boot but much more pant without the Lycra like fit. http://www.upandovertrials.com/pants/

With my wife having a Gas Gas 2T and being on a 4RT myself, something I have noted is that the 2T with the fast throttle is more like my 4RT with a slow throttle. Something you might try as a slow tube isn't very expensive would be to get a slow tube to try in some of the muddy conditions... Just a thought.

Having done a lot of trail, dual sport and endure type riding before getting into trials I would think a set of 5.5 or 6.0 high bend trials bars would work better. I admit its more money but at 6' 5" the flexibility of position to roll the handle bar forward for a more open riding position would be much better than the risers from my experience. I admit I am only 5' 10" but I have been on small cramped bikes and a set of taller bars instead of risers really gave me a lot better experience. And I would think with the position of the bar clamp on a Montesa this would be even more true. If you do decide to get a set of high bend bars I know at least Jitsie has both 5.5 and 6 and I think S3 has at least 5.5 and might have 6 as well, however I am not sure about Renthal. Good luck what ever direction you go.

With a mix of 1st to 4th most of the time in 3rd I have been able to get maybe 23 miles tops so if your running mostly 1st to 3rd I would guess maybe 15 miles...

In Europe I agree with Banyeres in Spain and H&D Racing in UK, have picked stuff up from there (shipping to the US can be a bit but worth it) or in the US you could also try Dennis at http://www.overlandtrail.biz/ first as he often has what I need.

Should have included the primary site link... This site is run by Dennis he is in the US and I know he gets them from over seas. http://www.overlandtrail.biz/ I know they will fit a current year 4RT or 300RR as well as older ones (fits both my 07 4RT and my 2017 300RR) Not likely to use in on the 300 though... I would also recommend you pick up some new unstickered fenders if you don't want to have them rubbed up as it will ride on them and scuff them up a bit if you don't. Described as: Montesa 4RT Seat/Tank. 2.5 Liter capacity. Available for all 4RT years ’05 – ‘16 Fuel has to be poured into main tank using quick release because fuel pump only works from main tank.

I don't know where you are in the world but you can get them they are just expensive. http://www.overlandtrail.biz/Montesa accesories.pdf

If you really want to know for sure use a chemical test strip or test meter to know how much. The easy is what I would say is differential diagnosis. Flush with new and if you find a lot of air that's likely it, if just discoloration and the issue goes away post flush it was likely contamination (water or other) reducing the boiling point. If it isn't fixed then you might have a problem with the caliper or master in some way.

That sounds like moisture in the system, I had a car that was doing something like this and it was water in the lines. I had seen some strange issues like this when air in the lines as well, however not quite as random as your describing. I would first flush/clean everything out double checking no air or water in the system and then if you continue to get the issues let us know how that works.

Honda wouldn't recommend it if it was going to cause a problem, people have been running it in 4RT's for years without issue. On another note, there is a lot of other oil options out there and as long as it is high quality and others are using it you might want to try your luck. For me I will keep using the ELF HTX740 as it runs so well in the bike for me. And if I couldn't get the ELF I would likely try a few different options and end up using something like the Amsoil super shift, Silkoline light, Dextron VI, Maxima MTL Extra light 75WT, GRO Gear Extreme 75W , or some other variation of a supper light gear oil.

If you are not able to find a 200 then a 250 with a slow throttle tube would likely be fine and if after that it still seems a bit much you can add a flywheel weight. If you have a club near I would see if you can go to and event and maybe get a chance to ride a 250 so you can see how well it might work?

I wouldn't recommend slowing down the idle on a 4RT you will likely cause yourself stalling and starting issues. However the 9 tooth front recommendation should create an affect that will slow the bike down for doing everything Dan indicated without the adverse affects of lowering the idle. My 2 cents and experience. I agree with everything else Dan said, its about getting varied conditions and practice to be the best rider you can!

I suspect ether would work out fine, however size and altitude could be a factor as well. If your a bigger person and riding at higher elevation the 250 would likely be my choice. If you are smaller and at lower elevation the 200 would be my first pick, however if you can't find a 200's just put a slow throttle tube on a 250 could work very well. Good luck.