jonnyc21

Not really my speed but the video was well done and fun to watch. Thanks for sharing.

Well I have had a chance to try an Airoh TTR and a Hebo Zone 4... for anyone that is interested in a comparison review for head shape, here it is. The head shape of both is what I would call intermediate round/oval with the Airoh being just a touch more oval than the Hebo Zone 4 but just slightly. over all fit for a more extreme oval head like mine is ok but not great but from what I can tell the options are limited so if your extreme and have a sensitive head go with the Airoh, if your oval but not overly so ether should work great and for the price I would go Hebo Zone 4. Construction seems to be about the same for quality from everything I see, and venting and weight is about the same so far that I can see. Over all for the price I think I will give the win to the Hebo Zone 4 as they can be had in the US for around $200+ and the Airoh being around $300+ unless you pick up a good deal. Hope that helps.

I remember hearing that some of the wheels have a bit of issues with some tires... So, what kind of wheel do you have?

I only ever have seen this when I over oiled my filter... maybe try getting the bike nice an hot then letting it idle without the filter for a nice bit. Then check the plug and see what you get? if it isn't as bad as it was before then that could explain it? Best of luck.

Often the simple things can cause issues like this. Have you turned in the tick over (idle) adjustment screw? the 4RT is suppose to idle at around 1800 to 1900 RPM's and the first thing you should check if it starts but doesn't stay running is that setting. much lower than around 1700 and they will just stop running like you described. And a brand new throttle body will often need this setting adjusted different than how it came. Best of luck.

Ya I have a habit of that... I will note that, you will never here me tell someone they should get a 125, however I have found people think they will not work well for someone of my size. The funny thing is that I can't do anything on my 250 I can't also do on the 125 so... take that for what its worth. FYI: I ride intermediate and practice as much advanced as I can do for skill reference...

If your average size with any off-road experience I would see if you can find a good Beta 200 or any brand 250 in the best condition you can get would work well. If your new to off-road then a 125 would be great. if your an extra large person And have experience then a larger bike like a 280, 290, or 300 could be ok but I would still say a 200 or 250 would likely be better. example: I am 190 lbs and my wife's 08 Gas Gas TXT Pro 125 works just fine for me and was our first family bike tell I got my 250, and if I had been able to find a second 125 I would likely have picked it up instead of my 250... My 2 cents. Hope it helps.

I am 14 stone and 5' 10" and if it was me I would say a Beta 200 would be a great bike as even my wife's 08 Gas Gas 125 doesn't have any real issues dragging me around. If not almost any of the modern 250's will be great and only maybe a slow throttle tube to start with might be worth considerations but likely not needed. My vote and 2 cents. Good luck.

I would expect a stock 4RT engine without limiters should get up to at least 8k, however I wouldn't be shocked if they limited it in the ECU. Long shot but... Any chance you got the bike with any of the limiters that can come in the EU road versions by mistake? Seeing that your in BC Canada and I don't know what options you can get there I figured it doesn't hurt to ask.

I would agree that a pressure issue caused by some kind of blockage sounds more likely the cause than the oil pump. The other option could be that you got a defective seal. Not common but can happen...

YouTube FIM has opened op a lot of the longer X-Trials videos as of late in the US but they only seem to do it the years the hold a world round in the US.

I would love to get some as well! i am in the US so do expect I will likely have to import them.

In my experience there build quality in general is fantastic. My 07 is bullet prof and everyone I know with new 2014 to 2017's have no issues. FYI: I know about 6 people with new ones. The trick is that when you have issues they can be a bit tricky in comparison to older carb bikes. However on that note, once you know the tricks/things to look for most things can be sorted quick as long as the parts haven't failed. If they do fail its a bit more $ to fix...

Usual checks? Is there tension in the throttle cable (can kill spark), try a new spark plug, tick over setting to low, fuel in the tank (not likely but as I have done it I will ask), check connectors to key items like fuel pump or ECU (or hole bike?). Last time I had issues like this it was the connector for the fuel pump under the tank. It was just barely unplugged and caused much the same problem... Hope your able to sort it.

Doesn't look to me like its missing any bits, just doesn't have the foot/shoulder the other one has because of the way it was made. I admit I could be wrong, however. If you really want a wider foot/shoulder on it I bet you could find a shop that could create one to go over the end and use some kind of roll pin or something to fix it to the end... Not sure if that's helpful but its what I would at least consider. Best of luck.

I air cool them as well...

I agree it would have been a 5, to bad the observer missed it.

Just sharing what has been working for me. Glad its helping...

What I have found is that you don't need to jab the pegs when doing the bounce but you still need the same body position that you would have after jabbing the pegs. So if you learn the peg jab well on flat ground then holding the body correctly when using an obstacle will be much easer...

As a safety you might want to find a way to add at least 1 to 2 extra liters for your longest rides... The few times I have gone on longer rides I take a single 1 liter bottle and use it as soon as possible so I don't have to have it on my back any longer than needed. Always gives me a little extra just in case.

The only resin I don't think that one is Bou's leg is because Bou would have a Showa in there not an Ohlins...

My 07 4RT (250cc) will go between 20 and 24 miles on the primary tank when riding mostly in 4th and 5th when possible on trails. the 300RR I would guess might be close at between 18 to 22 but its hard to say. I will find out soon how long a 300 RR will go on a tank though...

The MX boots your in are killing your floater attempts... Some trials boots or at least a soft ADV boots will help a bunch... Also, I would see if you can fine a good video of doing a floater turn without using anything to bounce the front tire off of. It is all peg pressure and body position and you will have a very hard time getting it correct even when using something to hit the front against without using your feet and rotating your body correctly. And using your feet and body correctly is much, much simpler when you have softer boots...

Hand guards are most often used by people riding lots of trails on their trials bikes for brush protection (snagging levers sucks). If you do want guards you will want to be careful about how you set them up to not have your lines cut if they or the lever assembly rotates. Lever setup video link: As for boots... I would say its about your preference in riding comfort in comparison to what your willing to spend, if you want slipper like comfort the Gaerne are most often rated the highest however they also have the least amount of support for you feet. For the best foot support most seem to like the AlpineStars, the older no-stops can be found on clearance so depending on size might be a good buy and most say the new ones are just as good but more $. If you want to spend less and get good boots the Forma Boulder, or Wulfsport are often rated well but less out of pocket however I am not able to speak to fit, comfort, or durability as my family have only had AplineStars and Gaerne's so far. There are a few other options including Hebo, and Sidi but I don't know to much about there comfort level or support etc. I am not sure where I would rate them. Hope that helps.

The term is observed trials so in short yes there is an observer who will watch you and score you. In the smaller clubs groups of 3 or 4 riders will often ride tighter and score each other (called group check) as there is often not enough people to help score the event. in the larger clubs they will often split the riders up by upper class and lower class and have one of the two groups ride in the morning and the other in the afternoon and you would cross score AM will observe the PM and PM observes AM.