jonnyc21

I figured out the issue. So it turns out I had 2 issue, and I think I know how I got both... The first issue turned out to be my Bang Angle sensor, and was the cause of not having spark. When plugged in I get nothing, when bypassed I have spark. The second issue turns out to have been caused by me pulling everything apart. Not sure if it was the former owner but it turns out that when I pulled the plug to check the spark the wire to the fuel pump was wrapped around it and was tugged just a fraction out of its connector and as I had not removed the fuel tank I didn't even see it as a possible issue. After figuring out I did in fact have spark with the sensor bypassed I turned to possible fuel pump issues and so pulled the tank to check the pump. So as I pulled the tank the connector almost fell apart just half removing the tank so I re-connected it and the bike started second kick. Thank you to everyone for your help. Great bunch of people here!

Should have included that I checked that as well. Have the normal play in the cable and small amount of movement on the throttle tube before engaging.

Good thought but the bike wasn't upside down just fell far enough for me not to be able to pick it back up in time for it to stop running. I did check the air box just in case but maybe I should just pull it and the throttle body and give them both a good check and clean.

This is one of the fist things I tried.

I am confused, the only thing I have disconnected at this point is the bank angle sensor. I don't have anything else unplugged. I am also wondering if maybe I had spark the hole time and just couldn't see it, and am also considering plugging the bank angle sensor back in and having the wife check for spark again... (got the wife to check when I was kicking it over.)

North Western US. Idaho.

Update... I now have spark but it still isn't starting. Seems like it isn't getting fuel. Anyone know what voltage the fuel pump works on? 12V? Now that I know I have spark I need other thoughts on what might have stopped working.

Great news!

Had I but known... Guess I need to do a better job of searching on how to do it next time. Will be the first thing I do once I get back home this evening.

Link the outside connectors of the bank angle sensor block? guess i missed a step if so. and can give that a try. Wasn't on its side long enough to fill the air box, engine stopped just as i picked it up.

I think I am around the clubmen level (intermediate out here)? When I got my 07 4RT I had a much better time with grip/traction than with the 2T's I had been on. Maybe I am the rare exception?

Well I get to join the club of starting issues... Bike was running fine, small tip over off a log about 3' up just after getting up on top of it. I wasn't able to get to the bike in time and what seemed to be the bank angle sensor killed the bike. Next thing I know the bike won't start no spark even with the bank angle sensor disconnected. As a doublecheck by disconnecteing the kill switch, changed the spark plug, and made sure my throttle cable had the correct play. But still no luck, no spark.

If it's really bad the baring trick with diesel to brake up the big stuff, flush with petrol/gas then soak in vinegar. Worked great for my friend. He also did the sealant as a last step just in case. Good luck

I would have to say trials got easier after I set my supention up correctly.

I wil double check my manual but every bike I have ever had was checked cold. Also you want the valves as in the middle of the range as you can get. I have had a bike where the close side of the range and high heat did make starting a bit hard and when I put it right in the middle it fixed that. Let us know how it goes.

Thread on suspension up in the general section right now... Thread: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/58528-importance-of-proper-suspension-spring-rate-and-setup/ Might take a look at this issue of "On the Pegs" to get a general understanding... http://www.joomag.com/magazine/trials-enduro-news-december-2014-vol-49-issue-12/0716551001416757092?short The one thing I will say is that in my opinion it dosn't make all the difference, but it dose help to have it set for you. I have adjusted mine and I am quite glad I did.

I was just wondering about valve clearances... worth a check for sure.

Stock trials bars are wider than most MX type bars because it give better leverage when performing the needed technique for getting up on things. So unless you have a need (medical reasons) I recommend against cutting them down and learning how to ride with stock bars.If you feel they are nont stick find someone to go ride with and compare. Also there are several different bends and heights on trials bars so if you like something different I suggest looking into your options. On bar risers, I am glad it was stated To get taller bars instead as I forget to say this myself. It's a way better option if you want or need a taller body position.

My advice on risers is avoid them unless you need them. Most of the time I have seen risers I see people who have there bars to far back and are compensating for incorrect bike setup. And second only go as much as you need, if you can get away with 4mm only do 4, if you need 12 sure go 12, but keep it as little as possible. I think steve_earle is more the exception than the rule but he did it correct and didn't go to tall and you can tell his bike is setup well.

"Trials & Enduro News" or "On the Pegs" Suspension is page 54: http://www.joomag.com/magazine/trials-enduro-news-december-2014-vol-49-issue-12/0716551001416757092?short

I can see where it could be to much for some as once you loose control more power can be bad and if you are one of the few that loose that control to often then the statement "more than I can handle" might be true. I chose however to say it's more than I need. And even then I want a 300RR so I guess needs and wants don't always match.

Check air filter? Loose connection on a wire some place like a ground wire with some corrosion? Just a few guesses. I am sure some better ideas will be posted soon.

+1 for boil them, works great! I start the hose or get a bucket ready, then ride the bike for a short spin with a short amount of pressure on the levers to heat them up. Maybe 30 or 45 seconds or riding? Then port the water on the pads to get them to steam. I do this maybe 2 or 3 times in a row and 99% of the time they start working great after that. Best of luck and here it is the disclaimer... This is what I do I don't clam it will work for you, your mileage may vary, try at your own risk... Good luck!

The con would be that as it brings the back of the bike up a small amount and makes the steering faster it can cause it to tuck a little. You can help mitigate this a bit by lowering your fork tubes in the triple clamps. And if you work on good body position it will likely be little noticed.

I would expect just starting with and practicing the basics is the best thing anyone with some time off could do... That and actually practicing might help... (talking more about myself with that comment. )