jonnyc21

Thanks guys, I have been considering trying the GRO and at least have an actual usage information on it now. Guess I need to see if I can find a supplier in the US now to try some.

1. yes 2. I hope so 3. yes

That is why I stay away from oil that is an unknown for that clutch pack, you don't know if it will swell or degrade the plates, and its not like they are telling us what they are made from so how do we know for sure what will happen? Worst case, maybe they disintegrate because some of the oil modifiers react badly with the glue or material... Would I expect this? No, but anyone willing to try should at least know what the possibilities are first. My 2 cents is don't got ATF as there are, from my point of view, better choices available. Everyone is free to do what they want, however I have heard and seen to many stories of people having things go wrong when doing things like changing to an automatic clutch oil when your not working with an automatic clutch, or running the wrong type of oil in forks and having the seals swell, etc. I am not against trying different options, just not willing to go way out of scope without ether a reputable source showing it works or at least being willing myself knowing that I could really mess things up. I have even taken a leap or two myself but only when I felt I knew what I was getting into and the possible negative out come that could happen first. Ether way, have fun and do what ever you want because in the end this is just my experience mixed with opinion and in truth isn't worth much but I sure hope it helps someone.

Will not get a disagreement from me that one would expect something with the RR marketing to have a larger gap in weight than they do. Even with that I will take the 1-2 kg drop over the standard 4RT, the larger CC's and other upgraded bits and wish I had or could get an RR right now.

Same here, I haven't ever had any issues with mine. There was a bit of brake in time, about 2 days of riding, but other than that they have been great.

I would shy away from ATF in a 4RT transmission myself. What the bike calls for and how different ATF is over the ELF would say there is a chance that it could cause swelling in the fiber disks and or separation of the fiber from the disks. This isn't something I can say will happen for sure however based on the differences in ATF over ELF using something like GRO Gear Extreme 75W. As GRO has close to the same viscosity index and is built for motorcycle transmissions instead of automatic transmissions I would think it is a safer choice. (even then it isn't what the bike calls for so its a gamble ether way) Viscosity comparison of ELF, GRO and Silkolene Light... Gear Oil | @40C | @100C ELF HTX740 | 21.4 | 7 GRO Extreme | 20 | 5.2 Silkolene Light | 100-180 | 15

Do not put the Silkolene gear oil light SAE 75 into the engine side. The 4RT uses 2 different oils, 10w40 motorcycle oil in the engine side and Elf HTX 740 in the gear box. Silkolene gear oil light sae 75 would be an alternative to the Elf HTX 740 but unless you have changed out the clutch pack with an aftermarket version you will likely not enjoy the result. best of luck.

When I was taught to do the splatter I was told its more the clutch than the brake. From what I have seen it is often the case that people cover the rear brake but shouldn't. For example... I have seen riders, even the upper class riders in my club, doing a hill and pressing the rear brake by mistake because they didn't move the toe to the side. Disclaimer: I have only just recently learned to splatter and am not doing large ones so I hope a higher class advanced/expert class rider can clarify if I am wrong.

I see it now... just looking at my black boots and the smaller image I missed it. I guess time will tell if they are a new pair or just a new version for factory riders. The latest video of the Sheffield trial Toni is still in his old boots so I can hope this is the new consumer boots from Alpinestar. (crossing fingers)

The only picture I can seem to find of them, they seem to be the same as what I have just white...

They are built a bit more on the robust side and have a 4T in them maybe? I meen, even the Beta 4T is like 8-10lbs (4-5kg) more than their 2T bikes just because of the engine. For me it isn't about the extra kg/lbs any way, it all about fun factor and my 4RT puts a smile on my face every time I ride it, over all maintenance is easy and low, gas and go... Just over all a great bike. PS. I am jealous trialcrazy, I so want a 300RR...

I run 80:1 in my wife's Gas Gas with full synthetic oil no issues. Not sure I would ever consider higher oil content...

On my 2007 the best modification I ever did was to change the oil for Red Line ExtraLight 2.5wt Suspension Fluid over the stock 5.0wt. I did the same to the rear sock and wow what a great change. I had to re-set the sag and play with the adjustments a bit to find my happy zone but the bike is much more responsive and feels much lighter now. Not sure about a 349 but maybe worth consideration to change the oil viscosity as well? best of luck.

I would love that ride!

The MX boots are going to make balancing extra difficult, I would see if you can do some practice with engine off using some other boots or shoes for comparison. I am not an advocate of riding without boots so please don't do that, but dead bike balance practice I myself am willing to do without them. If you by chance have a pare of more flexible adventure boots or maybe just a pair of broken in hiking or work boots to do engine off practice with? At the least loosen or unbuckle everything you can on the MX boots to get as much play as possible... My trials exp was so much better after getting a pair of true trials boots I can't advocate strongly enough how much they will help. Best of luck.

I can't tell are the boots your using trials boots or MX boots?

+1 It took me a few competitions to really understand how much loss of grip, balance or control, not power, was my primary point takers.

I agree, its all about if it sits properly on the collars and once adjusted for sag that it clears everything. If yes for both it should be fine. (operative word being "should")

I am with the vote to get the 300RR and keep my 07 4RT as well.

As stated above the "Leg-lifting" technique is a last chance catch move and if your at that point your likely to be taking at least 1 point tell you have a lot of practice at it. Now that I am 3 years into trials and riding intermediate I am able to use it from time to time without taking the point but still its a thin line on if I catch myself in time. For me one thing that really helped was to think of it as the bikes weight is one side of the scale and my body weight is the other one that I can move in and out on the other side to create the balance. Once I got that down I was able to stop the bike mid turn and balance the bike because I had the scale balanced as I went into the turn so stopping was just about a small shift to account for the change in motion. Best of luck and the key is of course practice.

My experience is that better is more a matter of preference and riding stile than it is truly one is that much better than the other. With the beta, Gas Gas and 4RT I have been on so far I can't say they where better, just different, and I could see how some people would find one better for themselves over another but I suspect it truly is more about what the rider likes as to what bike is best. I admit I haven't had the chance to ride a beta 4t but if I get one I will take it, so take this all as the 2 cents it is.

For new to Trials riders having the weight on is more often the better call. I have been on a Gas Gas 280 with one and without one and I would put it back on.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/58022-dunlop-trials-tyre/

I want to ride an 300RR... Heck I want to buy one.

not sure best place to get one but this is an example of a one for a Gas Gas. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOmELpx6FnY