jonnyc21

I have experienced a difference in grip depending on what type of tire pressure, tire brand, and what I am riding on. The Michelin tires I was riding on always seemed to grip better at the same pressure of the Dunlop 803's I am running right now so run them about 0.5 psi less to get a closer feel in grip. For example, when I am riding rocks on the Michelin's I would run 4 to 4.5 psi depending on if they had sharp edges or not and maybe 5 psi if very sharp, where on the Dunlop's I would run 3.5 to 4 and up to about 4.5 on the sharp stuff. Now in the dirt and mud with little to no rocks I would run 3.5 to 4 on the Michelins but down to 3 on the Dunlop's. One note: I am talking the older Dunlop's not the new GP's as I haven't had a chance to try a set of GP's yet. The GP's are the next pair I want to try when my current set where out. Also worth note is that I am 185 lbs and the tire experience is from both a 07 Montesa 4RT and a 08 Gas Gas TXT pro 125. Hope this helps.

You will see that the "Forma adventure trail boot" in comparison to trials boots has a heal location on the boot. This is because the boot is designed to be used on a bike with a seat to keep the boot in place on the peg when riding down the street. When riding trials you will not want a heal but instead to have a sole that is flat so you can move you feet around depending on how and what you are riding. If you don't have this you will have a hard time moving your feet around as you advance in the sport. Best of luck.

Dose everything seem like it's working well other than just not braking well? If so it is likely bad pads... Or it is more like the lever is great during the bleeding process but just doesn't seem to work well afterwards, hard pull, stiff? If so its the calipers not the master. Or the lever is all soft when your done? Then it's likely the master. There is no guarantee I am correct on cause but my past experience with brakes I would expect this to be the case... And good luck.

Unless what I have seen/heard is incorrect Toni, Jaime, and Takahisa's bikes ar all 311cc or there about. Not counting all the other custom modified bits, I am sure their bikes are about as factory as it gets.

If you can't get Goldfren pads easy the Galfer red pads get great reviews. and I agree, clean, flush, and scotch or emery cloth, and ride in the pads and you will likely find them better than ever.

My wife likes the new look better, might even be able to convince her to get one when she is ready to upgrade. Or at least might have to get the same plastic and stickers by then. LOL

I found that as I got better at front wheel hops my double blip timing got better, maybe if you haven't done so yet work on getting the front hop at least to the point you can start making it go right and or left at your choice and they try to use the same timing on the double blip? best of luck.

Where might that be? Been considering one.

LOL... Now that would be interesting to see, a manual crack start bike. Haven't seen how the new ones look in person but the old one hasn't ever give me any trouble...

A dab of the blue (not red) loctite should work well and still let you remove it when your done. The blue is quite good and still workable after dry without striping things. Good luck.

The 4RT and 315R clutch fix/oil threads should be easy to find. I seem to hear the most emphatic people update the clutch pack/plates. If your in the US I would contact Dennis at http://www.overlandtrail.biz, not sure about outside the US. If you want to try the oil fix's: 1) http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/56402-elf-htx-clutch-and-gearbox-oil/ 2) http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/60397-4rt-clutch-and-brake-mods/ 3) ... (Search for "clutch" in the Montesa forum)

As a novice and wanting light, I might suggest (though it may sound counter intuitive) to go with a 250 instead of a 300. There is something called moment of inertia witch is lighter on the 250 and if you get something like a 2015 Sherco Factory Gas Gas Race or similar you will find that the bike feels lighter. And at 149.91 lbs that's not much weigh to begin with. They should have enough adjustment in the suspension to give you that snappy feel if you want it and be able to bring it back in if you find yourself needing a bit less bounce. Myself I went for softer suspension and a 250, am now intermediate and will be able to ride well into advance with my current bike. And as stated, your the rider so what you want/like is what you should get advice aside. Best of luck!

My vote, change the oil to 2.5 instead of 5 and then run the clickers in a bit. I am not light weight but love the result. Good luck.

+1 I go through Dennis when ever possible.

Thanks...

Can you comment on head shap on the Zone 4? - Round, half round/half oval, or oval?

I agree with the figure 8's tighter and tighter with no clutch and then move to the same on a hill for the starting point of throttle control. Once you have this down I would go with making a section and riding it with and without clutch for comparison and then see if you can tighten up the lines as you get better with just the throttle. Soon you will have a good balance between clutch and throttle and can focus on body position and other things.

Good point, when I remember to put some talc in my gloves I have much less issues with blisters.

I use Renthal's, medium compound, apply brake cleaner and wire em on. Works great for me. As for blisters, I get them as well, however I blame my soft hands and lack of riding for most of that. (I likely grab a bit hard as well but why would I admit that? )

Check the watter pump, the stock covers can be corroded by the coolent if it isn't the correct type and often need to be replaced/repaired. If the owner doesn't know if its replaced/repaired and will not let you pull the cover to check you will need to double check if the oil has water in it and when the bike is hot the radiator is getting hot and the fan comes on correctly. Bad cover = water in oil, or no water flow to the radiator and cold radiator but hot engine. everything else should be about the same for any older bike, barring play, brake fluid, clutch working, runs well, etc. best of luck.

Yes this is what my friend did, however he forced a large round punch through the center of the folding portion of the peddle to open it up a bit more so it wasn't as tucked in.

I have a friend that wanted his closer for the same resion, though it tucked it in a small amount he was happy with it in the end. He took the stock and flexed the folding portion of the brake in and bending the back portion of the tip tell it held in place. It put it back about 3/4" and tucked it in about 1/4" or so I believe. Hope that makes sense...

I can't say I am a geezer but at almost 40 I have thought about this kind of incident myself. Almost did a number on the zone a few months back for the first time in 3 years of riding trials and after a second near miss soon after its likely to be something I pick up soon.

Haven't been on a 300 but between the Gas Gas's I have been on (125,250,280) and the Shecro I took a spin on (250). I like the transmission on the Shecro better. Even owning the Gas Gas 125 (wife's bike) I have just never been fond of the 4th gear to 5th gear shift on the Gas gas. That being said, if you can take a ride on both or at least something close in year and size (250 or bigger) I would think that would tell you miles more than my opinion. Best of luck!

Bike: 2007 4RT Brakes: updated pads (don't remember witch brand) Clutch: ELF 740 oil and adjust lever to my preference. - removed 2 springs to see what I liked better, got to much slip in 4th and 5th, so went back to all 6 Love it!