bluey

May want to follow manufacturers recommendation. Premix ratio – 100:1 (absolutely no richer than 80:1) From TRS https://www.trsmotosusa.com/documents/KEIHIN_SPECIFICATIONS_TRS_One_RR.pdf

That sounds promising. If it was like that from the dealer then it seems like a pretty poor assembly and testing procedure they have..

Maybe because the adjuster screw is in so far, the plunger on the master cylinder is not able to return to the rest position fully when you release the lever. It must do this to open the hole that charges the cylinder with fluid from the resevoir to give the system the correct range (at least that's my understanding). I would back the adjuster off until there is a bit of free play at the lever and see what happens. I have a new 18 gold and the clutch has very little drag, is light on the lever and has a nice slip zone. Love it!

my results were as below. Green x means close to spec Red x means no circuit After replacing the CDI the bike ran You can test the stator with values from this drawing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Mfile5AhnmUUFCV1huenhQX0E/view

Yes I removed the guard but was trying to pull the spring back and place the filter before releasing the spring. I'll try just sliding it down next time. Thanks

I rode a 300 rr and thought that was a bit too quick for me. I ended up with a 250 gold as that was the only 250 available in NZ. It's quick too! I'm comparing to an 05 GG pro though not a standard TRS One so can't comment on that comparison. I just cleaned the air filter for the first time and struggled with re fitting too (and I thought the GG was tricky). Some recommend sliding it down into place but that seems like it might risk dis lodging the foam from the cage and it is impossible to see if it is all sitting correctly.

I think practicing static balancing has been a big help to my riding in general and is just as valuable for no stop riding. Practicing balancing with the steering straight ahead by moving the hips left to right and lifting a foot off the peg when needed is the same skill that will allow you to ride in a straight line without relying on steering to balance. You then turn left or right because you want to go in that direction, not because the bike is falling that way and you need to turn to correct it. The bike is now much more settled as I approach an obstacle and I can allow the bike to slow right down without getting as wobbly. Also having a much easier time following a rut, riding along a log or just generally staying on any chosen line. I still have a long way to go but in my opinion if you must always rely on forward motion to balance your bike you are lacking some essential skills for good trials technique.

Yep I replaced a couple of front spokes recently. I had to remove a spoke or two to allow access. Luckily I bought a couple of spares as the threads were seized on some spokes and I broke another one while removing it. Really I need to remove all of them, clean and lube the threads and replace the ones I break in the process...

you can test the coil/cdi using the values in this link. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Mfile5Ahnmb2tvWHRRaWRBRUU/view Thanks to Hell Team Australia for the chart

My technique is the same, with the same results

No it doesn't because a smaller bubble has a higher ratio of surface area to volume therefore it has more resistance to moving through a viscous fluid. A larger bubble has a lower ratio of surface area to volume and can push through the fluid faster (effectively a better power to weight ratio). I reckon in a glass of fizz, the last bubbles to remain stuck to the sides of the glass and not rise to the surface will be the smallest ones. BTW I still accept if something works, it works. Just don't understand why yet but I enjoy these conversations cos I love learning stuff.. edit: Just had a thought. Maybe you are onto something with the diver, bends thing. When a diver breaths at depth the gas is motabilized into the body at the normal bubble size. When you ascend to less pressure the bubbles grow to a larger than normal size and they can not escape from the body tissue as easily. Only when they are re compressed in a chamber can they exit. Maybe the same with a hydraulic system somehow. BTW air compresses to half it's volume at 1 bar or approx 15psi of pressure.

They probably want people to notice and ask what it is for. Then they can say "that's the junk we hang on our bikes to make the Honda competitive"

Perhaps with the adjuster all the way out the piston is not working in the correct range to pick up fluid from the reservoir. I had this problem on my KTM once. I would suggest winding the adjuster all the way back in so the piston is able to return much further when you release the pedal and then re bleeding.

Upper shock bolt - top of the shock. That's where the play comes from on my bike.

My 05 does exactly the same. I removed much of it by wrapping a .05mm shim around the top bolt where it passes through the shock eye.

I don't have any aversion to the method. I just have an inquisitive mind and don't yet understand why a bubble that is compressed and made smaller and less buoyant rises easier in a brake system. As a diver I know that bigger bubbles rise faster and with more force (in that environment). I'll go and have a look at your previous posts.

Interesting. I do wonder why the bubbles could not rise with the lever at rest though? When the lever is out, the bubbles could travel all the way up to the reservoir could they not?

Interesting. Was this a result of using some other "dodgy" 2 stroke oil you think? Thankfully my bike isn't showing any symptoms of permanent damage after switching back to a decent oil...

Why is that? If you are pushing fluid through faster than bubbles can float back up through the line, surely any bubbles would get pushed out.

I've always just put a clear tube on the bleed nipple so that it goes up a few inches before bending over into a bottle to catch the waste fluid. Open the nipple and press the lever down then close the nipple and allow lever to return. After a couple of cycles like that, the hose is filled with fluid and you can just leave the nipple open and pump away while keeping the reservoir topped up, as no air can enter the system. The plunger needs to be traveling through a good range of stroke and returning fully when the lever is released. Make adjustments to the stop or lever play if necessary (close the bleed nipple if you are pausing the pumping at all) You can quickly pump plenty of fresh fluid through the system and push any air bubbles through at a good rate. Once the fluid is clean and clear of bubbles you can close the bleed nipple. I have used this method on front and rear brakes of all my bikes and has always worked well.

Ok a follow up to my previous post. Don't use BO 2T6 Oil http://www.motoxparts.co.nz/category/lubrication-filters/2-stroke-semi-synthetic-engine-oil-2t6---1-litre After I switched back to Castrol TTS the bike sounds and runs normally hot or cold. I really hope no serious damage has been done....

What was the outcome? My 05 300 has recently started doing this rattle for 30 seconds or so when cold. It sounds like a stuffed piston or something from the top end but then fades away and is fine. Can also be bought on a bit by revving it as it warms up. I did start using a different 2 stroke oil recently and wondered if it could be gumming the rings a bit when cold or something. Just a random thought..

It can help keep the sun out of your eyes. Pretty obvious I thought but no one yet mentioned it ...

I agree. Previous owner of my 300 pro had fitted a slow throttle. I recently put the fast tube back on and wish I had done it sooner. The long twist that was needed for a quick blip of power was just annoying. Instantly getting more lift on a double blip now and keeping the angle of my wrist in a more natural zone. I think the slow throttle is really only necessary if you have particularly poor throttle control. Just my opinion though and I have only been riding trials for 9 months.

I wasn't saying that's what you meant but rather asking. Notice the question mark. I suspect what most people really want to know is if bicycle trials is a faster/easier way to learn some skills, or if moto riding is our ultimate goal, should we just stick to that. Most of us need all the shortcuts we can get