bluey

Yep I always do this. I rarely take the bike out of gear and just do this by habit. Makes it half the effort.

Smashed my TRS shift pedal up hard on a rock and it was stuck at about a 45 degree angle right up over the engine case. I thought it must be damaged but I pushed the pedal down and there was a click as it located back to it's original position. No noticeable after effects at all.

Where are all the Scorpa and Sherco riders saying "my bike is best" ? PS get the TRS ?

Added a fuel filter Changed the hard fuel vent pipe for a softer rubber so that it came off and on easier

210 hrs on an 18 Gold 250 Water pump seals at 130hrs (plus wheel bearings brake pads etc). Other than that it starts, runs and performs perfectly.

Apparently the TRS lever has a different leverage ratio (push pin is a different distance away from pivot bolt hole) than other levers so you will be changing the feel and power of the brake if you use a non TRS lever.

Had to replace my seals at 130 hrs. Nothing to do with coolant level. The shaft was noticeably grooved but I put it back together and so far is ok at 200 hrs. If it does it again I'll do the shaft as well.

I disagree. I don't think it matters how much you focus on the end of the log, the bike will still need some kind of physical input to stay upright. This is easy when you can turn a bit left to correct a left fall or right as the bike falls right. When you can't turn you will use the same techniques as when the bike is stationary even if moving forward. https://youtu.be/shJUlpRAN28?t=186

Exactly. If you can't balance with the wheel straight, you can't ride in a straight line.

I think there are 3 main components to balancing. 1. The sensitivity/ function of your inner ear etc Can't do much about this (unless there is a medical issue that can be fixed) so just work with what you have.. 2. The ability to actually read the signs that you are off balance. I think this just comes with practice time. You slowly get more sensitive to recognizing the signs of the bike falling earlier and earlier and the corrections get smaller and smaller. 3. The actual techniques used to correct the balance. I started first with the bars to one side and practiced correcting the balance with small twists of the bars left and right. Once I had that working OK I started to try with the bars centered. Try putting a beer crate on the left to rest your foot on then slowly lift the foot off the crate but don't be in a rush to bring it to the peg. I found I would naturally bring the foot closer or further from the bike to maintain balance. Once you get the left foot to the peg you will probably find the bike starts falling to the left and it's time to swing the right foot out. You'll probably over compensate and then need to bring the right foot back in and the left out again. After a few months of practicing a few minutes every day, I found that I was only swinging each foot out about 6 inches or less and placing it back very gently. The corrections have become so small that I can often just move my hips from side to side now. One thing I have noticed with balance is that initially the exact point of balance feels really weird/floaty. Suddenly there is no feedback to tell you which way to react. You get so used to fighting one way then the other. When you actually balance, you need to stop reacting and wait briefly for the feedback to tell you what to do. It's this feeling you need to get used to. Anyway bla bla the main thing is regular practice and I still need a lot more..

I've been over the bars in a way that I am sure I would have suffered injury from hand guards. Basically did a handstand on the bars and then rolled over the front. Impossible to get my hands off the grips. The levers bent down a bit and my fingers hurt for a few days.

I've replaced both seals. I probably should have done the shaft as well as there is a very slight depression worn in where the seals sit. Anyway there is nothing bleeding out now. I'll put a couple of hours on it then drain the oil carefully to avoid getting dirt in it. I'll put it back in if it's clear.

I just got back from a ride and there is indeed a damp spot around the weep hole. (something just not right about that description). Coolant is a bit grey. I haven't looked at the oil again yet.

I just changed oil and believe it was slightly milky. 18 250 Gold and has done 125 hrs. Should I order both seals?

What do you mean by "limited success"? What made you think the coolant was no good?

Trials clothing looks alright on the girls but other than that ?

There are a lot of things to like about a new bike that won't necessarily give you lower scores. Easy to start Reliable Very light controls so you can ride much longer without tired, sore or cramping clutch and break fingers Much better and more progressive suspension so less impact is transferred to your body lighter so less work to recover from stuff ups Some people just like old stuff though and this is a hobby after all..

If the tubes are exactly the same wall thickness the steel will be a lot heavier. If the tubes are made to be the same strength, the weight difference can be very small or nothing. https://sciencing.com/strength-tubing-vs-steel-tubing-7811536.html

That area does get a hard time but I think it would take a long time to wear down to where it becomes a problem. At that point it could be built up with some weld quite easily I think.

I have a similar system but instead of cutting the bottle into a funnel I have have a vivid mark at 350ml. I just fill it to the mark and then squirt it in.

The airbox has a shield above the filter which is in two parts. Initially I was only removing the rear half of the shield. I am now removing the entire shield which makes removing and re fitting the filter easier.

Yep I agree. I must be getting up toward 1000 and it's not solved but definitely improving a lot so I'll just keep trying..

May want to follow manufacturers recommendation. Premix ratio – 100:1 (absolutely no richer than 80:1) From TRS https://www.trsmotosusa.com/documents/KEIHIN_SPECIFICATIONS_TRS_One_RR.pdf

That sounds promising. If it was like that from the dealer then it seems like a pretty poor assembly and testing procedure they have..