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Johnny Reggie

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Everything posted by Johnny Reggie
 
 
  1. I've had a Nitro and am now on a Busto with the battery assist. I understand (from Vertigo UK) that GET are producing a new WiFi com device, new hardware and software, for the battery assist models. Vertigo are waiting for this. A couple of observations; Firstly, get the mixture right - it's 30Ml synthetic 2T oil to 5 litres of fuel. Your oil in the airbox is not an issue, the gearbox breather returns to the airbox by design, I've had oil in the airbox after the bike being upside down a few times. Don't worry about it. Your running issue sounds very much like the TPS needs a reset. Have you adjusted the idle speed via the throttle stop? ( as you know if you adjust the idle via throttle stop then you'll need a TPS reset). My Nitro sooted plugs until I increased the idle speed. My Busto was supplied with a higher idle speed and it has now dropped back after approx 6 hours riding time, absolutely no issue with plugs. As you have no device to reset the TPS, or diagnose, its sounds like a dealer return. Cheers
  2. Westygas You should be able to trace the headlight wires back to the connector in the rubber boot in the headstock area and simply disconnect it. I'm struggling to remember but I think it involves some unplugging of the other two connectors in the area and replugging them directly, so where you had a loop out for the light its now gone. What was three connecting points becomes two. There's only one way they can go. I think either the kill lanyard and/or map switch are linked in at this point. Sorry I'm a bit vague but there's certainly defo no wire cutting involved.
  3. Hi Ballisttic When my Nitro was new I found that the clutch did not disengage cleanly, even after endless messing with lever positiont. I moved the ring to position 2, no improvement. So, I cleaned behind the spring plate under the adjustment ring as it collects swarf and stuff, went back to position 1 and just rode the bike. I would say it took 10 hours or so riding for the clutch to improve. I have since cleaned behind the plate again and the clutch is now great. On the leakage front, no issues for me just take care with the gasket and ensure the case is located properly. Do you know for certain that oil is coming from the casing and is not collected by the bash plate at the drain point? Good luck.
  4. You do need to hold the clutch somehow. I bought a holding tool from eBay for just a few quid. The centre nut does have to come off to change the plates. For what it's worth I would replace the friction plates at the same time so that you get the full benefit of a fresh clutch. Take care to align the dots as per the manual on reassembly otherwise the clutch will not work... Cheers Reg
  5. Hi Primodious I would appreciate a copy of the manual when you have a chance please. Thanks very much Reg johnholdsworth369@sky.com
  6. My pleasure. You're right it is a dark art and it does require some searching to get to the information. If the suspension police see this then doubtless I will be butchered in my bed 😂 It would make sense that the Mont has a stronger spring than the Vertigo. I have a Vertigo these days but haven't had it apart yet! I am intrigued as to why our spacers were both smaller on our bikes. With respect to the springs, Top to bottom, they are heavy duty, Medium and Soft. I installed the medium and all was well. The 2.5W Motul is the equivalent of the OJ 5W (and also Showa SS05). Cheers, Reg
  7. Here's a link from Splat Shops site regarding Tech Springs for Alloy stanchions. You can identify the spring by the number of tightly wound turns. You probably know this already but the oil recommended is an OJ product which we can't get in the UK. Comparing the specification the nearest product that I found was Motul Factory Line, Very Light 2.5W. As you say it is easy to make a spacer. I'm sure that it will improve matters. Cheers
  8. I had the same issue with my 300RR. For me it started when the front was solid when cold. I discovered the previous owner had put heavy oil in so I returned it to standard spec. Then it was way too soft. I found two things; firstly, the spring was a soft one so I replaced with a standard spring. Secondly, I found the spacer was like yours, looked to be smaller than standard. What alerted me to the problem was that there was no resistance when I removed and then replaced the top cap, almost like the whole assembly was too short. I made up a replacement - double the size - and immediately improved the situation. But I was keen to get to the standard and correct spec so I ordered a replacement (I bought this from Splat Shop UK, Tech do a kit with the nylon cap and spacer. It was somewhere between the two extremes. You'll see in the pictures, the small one removed, the middle one is the standard replacement and the large is one that I made. Hopefully, this will give you some idea of the size. Sorry I can't measure as the bike was sold. Good luck
  9. Hello SDW As far as I understand there are three Tech Spring options. A Soft, standard and stiff. The springs are identifiable by the number of compression turns. The standard spring (12 compression turns should be suitable for rider weight of 75-90Kg. I discovered this when I bought a Mont 300 (aluminium tubes), turned out that someone had replaced the stock spring with a softer spring. Take a look at Splat Shop's website and you will see this along with an indication of rider weights. Hope this helps.
  10. It's usually either low tickover or your clutch isn't disengaging fully or both. With the clutch, check your lever set up and refresh the DOT4 fluid in the master.
  11. I wouldn't hold out hope for a discounted past model. Honda did this for the 2018/19 300 as far as I could tell but now times are different. I know that Honda have recently been throttling supply, to some extent (supply chain issues, I'm guessing) so dealers have found it hard to take bikes into stock and, where they have stock, they seem to move them pretty quickly. In a nutshell demand seems to roughly match supply. I generally have a trade in so my focus is on getting the best price for the old bike and paying list. Discounted road registration is usual and maybe a few goodies at cost is probably as good as you will get in this market.... Good hunting Reg
  12. I am 5' 9" and 78kg, 39" chest. I usually wear a medium in say a MOTS or S3 trials shirt but generally hover between medium and large depending upon the brand and how fitted it is. I ordered both M and L in the Stone 4. Medium fitted better in the body but was too tight under the arms. I went for the large as it felt more comfortable, particularly with the gillet in. I would say if you're a slim build in the arm and shoulder then the medium will fit a treat. I've worn mine a couple of times and never with the Gillet - it's just too warm for riding in my opinion. I don't think they are billed as waterproof and they are not. Hope this helps Cheers Reg
  13. Hi You have all the usual suspects above. Here's a few more simple ones:- 1) Have you made any changes? Simple stuff that may effect connections etc. Like taking the headlight off.... If so retrace 2) How fresh is the fuel? 3) Did the plug you changed come from a reliable source? 4) Give the bank angle sensor a knock, make sure its not stuck. Cheers
  14. A quick thought. Maybe someone has put a slow throttle tube on the Vertigo? If you roll back the grip it’ll be black. Fast ones are white. That would tax your wrist more....
  15. Next year's model will be back to red ? I've just bought a grey one and love it but I reckon the colour will date quickly (have some red bits coming). Not so keen on the black fork boots... But underneath all that, same great bike ?
  16. Which S3 footpegs have you put on? If they're the s3 Curve then they have a slightly more aggressive angle and are designed to help get your weight forward quicker. My thought was this could be putting more stress on the wrists?
  17. Monteeman, I have been down the same track just recently. Bought an immaculate 2016 Repsol and then recently changed to a 300RR. Couldn't resist, and I do think it is easier to ride, plus nothing wrong with being over-biked ? I would advise anyone to go and find a little used example (2016 plus), as I did - no regrets. I found that there are plenty of really good 4RTs and Repsols that fit the bill, most 300s were well used when I was originally looking, although plenty of nearly new around now. I reckon the Repsols hold their value a little better, plus the all Showa suspension is really plush. You would notice the difference in feel, but will it make you a better rider?? Probably not. Personally, I like the Repsol colours but am not a fan of the 2020 example. The 2020 4RT does look nice tho"...... ? Good luck, buy well and won't go far wrong.
  18. Ps. let us know how it ends ??
  19. The Mont does have a lovely tractor like quality, holding it on little more than Tickover it pulls and pulls. I wouldn’t say they they pull noticeably better than 2T from the bottom as such, what is noticeable is that the power is strong all through the range. I never feel like I’m looking for more - the engine is strong. I had been away from the sport for many years, so my reference point is Spanish 2Ts, got back on the bike and ended up on Monts. I’ve ridden 10 trials since April and practice regularly, love it and love the bike. There are plenty on this forum who can offer up genuine insight on how to ride the Monts to great effect. JimmyL I think is one such... What I can say is I’ve been stunned by the Monts suspension and motor and overall capability. I have ridden modern 2 strokes and they are obviously good bikes, they are light and go where you want, but they leave me cold. After riding a 2T I feel like I should go looking for the parts that have fallen off them.....? No turning back for me!
  20. I’m still on the learning curve and found It be a handful initially, I geared it down to 9/41 and it seemed to suit me and the tight stuff that we were riding better. I did move back to 10/41 for a while thinking it should work better. Gone back to 9/41 for now- but I appreciate the sentiment - a bit more time under my belt and I dare say I’ll be back to where I started! I recognise the kangaroo juice ? and can see how the set the throttle and clutch is good. Thing is when you’re on and off the throttle you’re more likely to break traction and you’re a gonner in the mud...
  21. Monts Tickover at around 1800. Don’t worry about this, most owners gear them down from 10/41 to 9/41, this makes them slightly easier to handle. You can ride them off the clutch or on the clutch. The bike will not run away with you, shut it off and you have a little engine braking coming into play (I like this personally). It’s true they are a little heavier, again I wouldn’t worry on this score. I see plenty of riders winning on the Monts - they are capable machines - as ever it comes down to the riders ability. The main changes of late on the Monts (4RT and Repsol came in with the 260 engine - the ones with the map switch). My advice would be to try and avoid anything older than ‘16. Bon chance!
  22. I have just bought a 300rr and have made the same changes (it is exactly the same as the Repsol). I have no requirement for the lights and so I have removed the left hand connector (as per your picture) and therefore removed the middle socket with the red blank (again, as per you picture). The map switch connection will then link directly to the male connectors on the left hand side. I hope this is clear. Saludos, Reg
  23. On my Repsol (2016) the map switch is connected to the green and green/white (these wires sit in the same 4 way connector). When the circuit is made the high power mode is on. Hope this helps. Cheers, Reg
  24. Johnny Reggie

    Service

    For fork oil. Take a look at the cst measures at 40 degrees. You’ll see the Showa ss05 recommended for Showa front end is ~15 cst, as is the Motul racing line Very Thin 2.5w. Jonnyc21’s Like Water is thinner, their 2.5w comes in at 8cst. Don’t look at the manufacturers weight rating (SAE 5, 2.5 etc), look at the cst measure. Goggle it and you’ll find spec comparison tables... You have Tech forks, OJ-01 recommended oil, about the same at 15cst@40degrees. But you can find alternatives by the same method ??
  25. Johnny Reggie

    Service

    Pulling your leg (the 40ml over p****s me off too). I feel, don’t go cheap on the oil and don’t mix oils (different brands or old and new) as far as you can anyway. jrsunt I’m sure knows what works... Interestingly, I was looking for an alternative to the Showa fork oil and the Motul Factory line is pretty close in spec
 
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