lineaway

You have just lost leverage, and the ability to get far forward (Or back) on the bike.

1998 280.

The bike`s throttle is on the right! I doubt after 40 years that you actually attempt an obstacle out of the pits.

Dan, have you ever ridden an event?

Funny, he never even said what year! Without knowing what he has you cannot give advice. A newer 250 runs very good.

I have often wondered about you posts Dad of Two. Now I know you are full of crap advice. Fat bars are rarely replaced, so good money spent. The old 7/8s Renthal aluminum bars w/ brace were fairly rugged. My record for the old Renthal`s were 6 in one month. But steel bars could be ruined every time you crash. Do you really ride?

Dabill was never the rider Fajardo was. Bike has nothing to do with this. I`m sure this is a shock for a fellow countryman.

Glad to see the top riders riding the Ute Cup. Makes for a good ride with everyone riding the same sections as the Pro`s!

I actually had seen this happen on a bike I sold early this year. Sold a 2004 300 Pro. That was the last model pro before the fat bars were standard equipment. The gentleman that bought the bike installed a set of fat bars. He had a knee replacement a few years back, and really just could not start the bike. I took the bike back just to sell it for him. I looked at the bars over and over the couple of months I had it in my garage. They looked good, you could ride it comfortably enough. But I just knew they were not a trials bend. Finally I rode it in a trials. Just enough sweep in them to loose a little leverage. I had my son ride it and he felt the same. Anyway the Renthal bars all cost the same. The only trouble you really have is availability. It`s just easier to click on the net, than actually call and find the right bars. People that are new riders have always tried to put non trials specific parts on there bikes because of cost and availability. Tires is usually the first item a new trials rider buys wrong.

That looks better than the 26 inch Oset that almost killed me two years ago!

Awesome Larry! Thanks so much for posting!

So he was playing at Turkey Rock! One of my Colorado favorites! I heard there were just a few riders hanging out!

I`ve heard that excuse ever since I started riding trials!

So is Andrew braving the high altitudes of the Ute Cup!

I am not confused at all. 43 years trials rider, Desert racing was my preferred go fast style. I have worked in the industry anywhere from parts, sales, service. Started at the oldest Yamaha shop in the USA and also sold trials bikes for many, many years. You are wasting your time. Unless you like sitting.

A ski area can be heaven to a trials club. But you have to have a local club, which takes a lot of work mainly from a few dedicated souls. I was one of two trials masters for the first National set at Taos Ski Valley. We spent every weekend up there that summer as there was no loop and all the sections had to be cut out. Setting is just the beginning, as a national requires a whole club. ( I was the President also for the first two) We have been lucky as we have been using Sipapu Ski Area for our last few Nationals. Much easier as we have ridden there now 23 years. Nice find Pete, but I`m not sure of a club close enough. Maybe it`s time to get one started! Good Luck.

First you never needed the clutch on an MAR. It had enough flywheel to run a dead idle. As long as you could jet it. On the `99 I would make sure you have a 10t counter shaft sprocket as they ran fast stock. On the other hand the clutch on modern bikes are amazingly light and easy thanks to hydraulics! Two different turds.

Lower and flatter has been around 1990. Wider has to do with rider preference. Too short, loss of leverage(Same thing as bar risers) Too wide and you might not sneak through the tight spots. MX bars have a bend for sitting down like a women.

If the rear shock is in good shape, it`s plenty good for your weight. The front fork spring could use a new one as the bike only has one up front. If you are actually riding trials soft is better. If you got the owners manual with the bike, go by the factory settings for your lean weight.

That`s funny, you sound like my son. He has several projects that he bought this summer for ME to make him some money for a new bike. The Pro motor is like no other bike. If you have never been in one, he might pay attention to real suggestions. Good Luck.

Read again and again. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/53925-03-280-pro-pressurising-gearbox/?hl=%2Bclutch+%2Bbolt#entry384743

550 is correct by the book I always used 500, the 550 was really meant for a dry amount.

Snell maybe a little rough on the phone. But he knows the bikes and he stocks the parts. His parts inventory only went bad when the factory started suffering financially. When the factory is out of parts, everyone suffers. Jim will have the parts on hand as long as the factory has their **** together. Snell I can call. Ryp I can call. All the others?

And you started a second thread on the same problem. You pull the bolt out of the middle of the clutch assembly yet?

I think you might be on to something with the ground. I rode a Pro awhile back, that if I physically pulled the bike hard left it would die. I did not have the bike long enough to find out why. On my son`s Raga, it would die if it went up and down suddenly. I fixed this by drilling a second vent in the Keihin carb on the left side that looks like a blank. Stopped stalling by over 60%. Good luck.