lineaway

You might keep a look out for a Gas Gas rolling chassis. Bound to be a few bikes around with blown up motors. The marzoochi forks would work much better.

Start with a new spark plug. If that does not work, check for spark by holding the plug by the cap against the engine while kicking. Good luck.

I use shoe goo for everything. Seat repair, fender repair, non pressure case leaks, trim on jet ski`s and boots.

Have a hard time with actually reading? There is nothing wrong with the seal, it`s the bore and poor quality of finishing the product that ruins the piston cup seal from the get go.

Not hard believing it, pull out the piston and look at the seal lips. PS it`s not just Sherco, all the new bikes with these crap hydraulics.

You need a new rebuild kit. I would clean up the bore first. Otherwise throw that m/c away and find an AJP.

Feet up is correct. A basic 520 chain like a DID or RK would probably solve it.

I`d just wait and buy a 2016 Scorpa just to be different.

I would be concerned with the tank venting.

That bushing you have your pen on goes on from the out side of the case.

Ok, my son started on a Yamaha PW50 at 2 and 6 months and rode his first trials before three. He has had many bikes and many bicycles. He turned 18 this week and is a very solid Expert. All his years were good, and as a Dad that is great. The two best bikes ever, were a TY80 and the full size wheeled Gas Gas 80. Everything else was crap for a kid. The Oset is cute for the back yard, but we actually camp for days and ride. Electrics do not cut it. From a Dad to a Dad this year has been the greatest. In the last three weekends we rode, camped and had a blast, 4 days of trials and eight days of camping! I hope you have as much fun with your son.

The most important thing is to let the bike dry, and then start it for at least five minutes!

Buy him a stryder bicycle. He will figure it out if he likes it or not. Kids really are not that interested till the teen years. Just keep it fun.

We have gone to a 118 and 38 and ride at 6000 ft. Was just at an event last weekend and it ran well. 2012 250 riding expert. It is a dell orto. A Keihin, just guessing would be a 120-125 and 50.

Sounds like you broke it. I`ve done one and it all went together nicely.

The oil could be the issue. Not all oils are meant for wet clutches. "Castrol does not recommend using passenger car motor oils like Castrol GTX in motorcycles. In 1996 the American Petroleum Institute (API) upgraded the performance standards of motor oil from SG to SJ (currently SN). This upgrade impacted the friction modifiers and zinc and phosphorus levels to address the fuel economy, catalytic converter and emissions issues of passenger cars. For motorcycles, the additional friction modifiers can affect wet clutch performance, and these engines typically require a higher level of the anti-wear additives (zinc and phosphorus). Passenger car oils use friction modifying additives to reduce friction in specific areas of the engine such as the valve train and piston ring/cylinder. Friction modifiers react with metals forming a molecular layer that reduces friction between moving surfaces. In a typical motorcycle engine with an oil immersed clutch (wet clutch), friction modifiers may be absorbed on the clutch plates rather than on the metal surfaces. This can reduce the friction coefficient of the clutch plates and as a result the clutch will start slipping causing a loss of power transfer to the back wheel, overheating and increased wear." ...In other words Castrol added friction modifiers in the API SJ spec and didn't have to list it as energy conserving in the API bullet. Then they went on to say Blaw blaw blaw we have $15 a quart motorcycle oil you should use.

Should not be an issue.

Of course the distributor was not happy. As of this moment he has no factory to cover the expense.

A new strap could not hurt, but even a new bike needs tires checked just before you ride. New tire, new valve, new strap, tire gauge and air pump, you will be set.

I once used the front wheel, master cylinder and caliper from an `84 YZ125. It all bolted straight on, except a machinist made a bracket from the caliper to the fork that was just held on with hose clamps. Covered it up with a disc cover. Actually was a great working brake. Since you have a few TY`s, this might be an easier fix.

Put in ATF . You will like it better any way. You won`t like this, but the quick fix is to warm up the bike. Find a nice obstacle to hold the bike in place, click it up to fourth and burn the clutch a few times. Or check the finger height of the clutch. The finger height is the most important measurement to make the PRO work. You can also do a search for gas gas clutch repair to learn more. 18 to 19 is not that hard to get. When you get below 16 it just does not work well.

Besides the remote reservoir mount, the foot peg mounts were strengthened. In the states many `85 models were sold. The `86 model was relatively rare in comparison, but much better bike due to the rear shock.

Sand them down a little. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dv3sWgY-RjM Or you could go backwards and buy the stiffer clutch spring from the early Pro`s. That is what I had to do this week, since my bike started slipping in 5th and 6th. Good Luck.

The `86 was better, mainly if the rear shock is in good shape. Somebody sure tried to make it look like an `88.

The white one looks like an 88 TY250?