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The 350 was just a pig after a half a throttle. Go back down in jet size. Are you going to ride trials? The most improvement would be to remove half of the flywheel weight on a lathe.
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Obvious it was inflated egos along with the new FACTORY. Shame as it was a good run of a trials based machine.
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Use a clear hose that goes above the master cylinder.
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Should find quite a few gassers for cheap shortly. A 250 would be plenty.
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Nice list of the old guys. Brings back some old memories and new ones. Bob Micket moved to N.M. years ago and just sold his last bike this month. Hate to see the guys I`ve ridden with finally give it up.
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You can remove two of the clutch springs. Works great unless you plan large obstacles. Used it that way for about 5 years until our vintage club went to harder sections. The 200 was my favorite vintage bike being underpowered as it is. But I had to go to a larger bike when the ledges got bigger.
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http://fennektours.de/shop/beta-online-ersatzteilbestellung/beta-ersatzteile/rotor-evo-2t-gb.htm
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It`s amazing that it took 4 years to check the linkage bearings. All bikes should be disassembled and lubed when new. I would order the part from Beta UK. American Beta is pretty new for an importer, and just because they do not have it has nothing to do with sales numbers. I applaud your view on zero play, but that means a lot of maintenance on a trials bike or a proper fix like fulltilt did. Funny the older bikes actually had more zerks and the newer models none.
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That is the same bushing as the other side. I would ask the previous owner. Was the bearing dry? More likely it was run loose.
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Grease it up and put it back together till the part comes in.
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Use all six springs. By the way the clutch only goes together one way. The hub has a mark and so does the pressure plate. It is NOT symmetric. Good luck.
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That`s funny, just last week one 4RT would not start. It still had the original plug in it. Ten years old, just had a small metallic feather.
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Having a bike to swap parts is the easiest by far on the 4rt`s. We have 4 bikes at work and two complete spare bikes to keep them up. Check all your connections and grease. But once it all dries out it might clear up any way.
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Do you have the proper idle set in the first place?
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I`d pop the edge of the kick starter with a plastic/rubber hammer. I`ve seen many stuck, but it has to come off!
By the way ,the proper way to work on a gasser clutch is with the bike on it`s side on the ground. Perfect time to give that shaft a shot of penetrating oil. Good Luck.
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mik60ish, the proper way to remove the kick starter is not by a puller. Watch the above video at about 1:50, Jim shows how incredibly easy the starter comes off the shaft without a puller even when it seems very stuck. Using the retaining bolt itself is just brilliant. All Pro bike owners have been faced with this dilemma.
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As far as risers go tall, has nothing to do with it. Ever hear of short riders raising the foot pegs? Raising the bars considerably causes loss of leverage and loss of forward body position on large ups. But, if you are putting many miles on the trails and not riding trials enjoy.
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Interesting on the brake M/C , let us know how it goes. The bar risers do no good, unless you are just trail riding.
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If it does not squeak while riding, not much to worry about. You either have a slightly warped disc or as said before bad wheel bearings.
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The plastic Dominos have been around more than two decades. Never heard of this problem, but the again never heard of someone using a torque wrench on one.
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Boost bottles designed for the correct displacement do actually work. Trouble is it is just barely noticeable to most riders. I see you are into magnetics. http://nettrax.myvoffice.com/nikkenusa/ShoppingCart/Shop.cfm?CurrPage=CategoryDetail&NextPage=CategoryDetail&CategoryID=646&pid=40016927752570662
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Yes, that will clog up in time. You just made yourself an unofficial U.S. spark arrestor!
http://lewisportusa-com.3dcartstores.com/SPARK-ARRESTORS_c_157.html
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