lineaway

Says he`s using a 145 and 27.5 up to 1000m and 2nd clip down, air screw 1,5 turns out

Perfect.

You mean I have to get off my couch? Without finding my wife`s glasses, looks like 32x1 I have two if you need one, let me know.

They came with a 150 main, 27.5 pilot. At your altitude I would run a 140 main(145 if trail running) with a 30 pilot. As for Billy t`s carb fix, the most important thing is the float level adjustment. The tang is to be adjusted pointing quite high towards the top of the pilot jet tower. I`ve ran the mikuni for years with no real issues. I ran a 2006 that ran flawlessly to 2500 mts. I recently had seen a 2006 Rev 3 that ran real lethargic. The bike was properly jetted, and had been like that for years. It was sold to some enduro guys that instantly read these threads and popped for the newer Del Orto. The bike still ran poorly, just never really revved out. I only rode that bike the one time, and have not seen it since. There was a post on here about a guy with the same problems, turned out to be the coil. The opinion was it would break down at mid rpms, but not noticeably. Always felt like carburation, not electrical. Good luck. PS, most of the rev 3`s ran very smooth and slow compared to the `08. Even when new and everything working perfectly.

The `08 had a different crank, cylinder and totally different ignition. The `08 ran great, but the rev3`s were too heavy (Compared to the competition.) after 2003. You are new to trials riding, which means you will never max out the 2006 capabilities. The feel of power means nothing in trials. In 2006 I thought the bike ran fine. Spend your time riding not wrenching.

450 is good. Manufacturers should list a dry and oil change separately. Too much oil does cause a problem in both release and engagement.

I would not lock tight caliper bolts. I would anti-seize them.

It`s not just the carb, you are chasing your tail. Learn to ride the bike and save some bucks for your next bike. Anytime you ride a newer bike it is going to be better. The `08`s did run good, it took Beta nine years to make it run. Ride a 2014 Beta, then you will see how bad the `08 is!

One good thing for sure, Ty riders have a good sense of humor!

I would not get too cocky as that was a fun event and no one was there. The year starts this weekend at Turkey Rock. Great place to ride. If you want to have fun , come down to New Mexico June 6th and 7th at http://www.sipapunm.com/ You will not be disappointed. Ask anyone, Stan or your fine president as he is from our club! Have fun and good luck!

I`ll give you one thing, the Yamaha TY has better electronics than your Duc!

I`d leave the wires linked together. Pat attention to the fan. When it starts going he fan just does not start, but can be pushed start from a finger. It`s electrical, forget the jitsie impellor.

And people wondered what the FIM were thinking. One piece suites, good sections and lots of competition!

That means you had 14 sections that you averaged a two. Every event is different, sometimes new location and a different person setting the section. Also depends on your physical and age. Moving up can be great or the reason people quit. I only rode novice once, I came in with a two. I rode to compete back then, now I only ride for fun. Having fun is much more relaxing.

Paul you would have to be more specific on the year to get real info.

After watching this http://www.trialscentral.com/sub-headlines/16881-a-day-with-takahisa-fuijinami I would say Toni just puts more effort into his technique.

http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/sherco4strokestart.htm Here is a short video featuring Paxau showing the wrong way and proper way to start the Sherco 4 stroke. Notice that the short jabbing kicks do not work, but a slower methodical kick works with ease

This is the time for a clear float bowl. You might not have enough fuel in the bowl.

What did you recently do to the brakes or did you just go for a hard ride? Either way too much friction caused the fire.

I had a similar problem yesterday on a bike that I rode the previous weekend that ran great. It would not start and when it did, ran a short time. Turned out the seat for the needle had come loose. I am not saying, that is your problem. You need to make sure it is getting fuel. Vent good, petcock good, Floats good, needle and seat. All carb vents clear. You get what I mean?

For any brand in the USA, online shopping is very minimal. Most things have to be done the old fashioned way of speaking to a person. http://www.betausa.com/ is the importer. Favorite shops http://www.jackscycles.com/ RYP USA, Lewisport, Tryals Shop. Try American Beta dealer listing.

Half the time when there is a rear brake issue, it is just worn pads. I just fixed a 2011 evo that really only needed pads. The owner bought a new master cylinder and new pads. He did a poor job of bleeding the system and compensated by adjusting the rod too tight. First ride out, the air bleed out and the rear caliper caught fire from to much friction.. So I replaced the pistons and seals and put the original master cylinder on. All is good now, it just needed new pads to begin with.

You not using the clutch enough has nothing to do with oil. It is a technique, not a service item.

If they put the steering stem for the Honda on the Mono yokes that would be a treat. I would be in for at least two sets.

Like this!